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Old 04-20-2011, 01:52 AM
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Default My Lifeliner is progressing.

Well, finally got all of the major mechanical work done on the Lifeliner so it passed the Provincial Mechanical Inspection (required for an out of country vehicle). Still needs a more complete tune-up but that'll have to wait. So now the vehicle is offcially registered in my name and licensed.

Last week I spend the day taking off all of the lights, trim, etc. in prep for the body work and paint. Today I stopped by the shop doing the work (1 man operation) and the media blasting had just been completed. Here are a few photos of the results so far.

I had to remove the left rear window so the sill can be repaired where it's rusted. Basically, the window gasket/rubber had shrunk and the butyl rubber had dried out letting water in. Not too bad...at least the damage is confined to the sill and no further. Another leak on the rear left side underneath the stainless trim that can be cleaned up easily.

Interesting to note that the only repairs have been to the lower left/right quarters, rear door, and right side by the service door. Nothing really major.
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Old 04-20-2011, 07:39 AM
Paul Steinberg Paul Steinberg is offline
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The windows come out so easily, it might be a good idea to remove them all, and get fresh paint under the rubber to avoid problems down the road. Are you keeping the original colors?
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:39 AM
Richard Vyse Richard Vyse is offline
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That's the way to do it Bill. Looks great!
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:28 PM
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I have found the rear under the bumper to be a problem place to. on most of them. will worth the effort to drop it and clean up around the bumper ends. getting all the paint off sure makes it easier to work with. as they taped it I would guess he did not soda blast the car. now to find out what is under that filler. the back door was prone to rust there. the other spots were bumps that could have been as far back as the factory. one thing that the sand blasting will do is show up any weak spots and starting rust. but waht a mess to clean up afterward.
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:37 PM
Josh Horton Josh Horton is offline
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I have seen a couple of 73 MM with a dent in the passenger rear quarter. All look to be close to the same place.
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:49 PM
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I pulled the bottom trim pieces (that included the housing for the shade) on the right side and everything is good there so I'm going to leave well enough alone for now. The rubber that hold the window glass is in reasonable shape but is losing some of it's flexibility. I haven't been able to find a replacement as yet. Any ideas on a rubber treatment? Paul, did you you suggest WD40 or a similar product? I want to use something that won't degrade the rubber.

As for colors, I won't be going back to the orange/white. The interior of the car is red/black. The factory original colors are Cotillion white over Bolero red. A nice combination but I'm not drawn to it.

I'm trying to chose between black over red...gloss back, not crinkle (see attached pic - photo courtesy of Northland PCS) or white over black (also see the pic - photo courtesy Peter Adsten).

The white over black is the colors that Metropolitan Ambulance (the private ambulance service prior to the Province taking over all ambulance service) used in Vancouver. Nanaimo ambulance Service (mid Vancouver Island) also used the same colors. Although Metropolitan used primarily Superior vehicles, a few MMs were in service as Metropolitan expanded in the lower mainland. I also really like the graphics that Metro used on the doors and would duplicate those as well. Right now I'm at about 20% black/red...80% white/black.

Any comments/opinions are always appreciated.
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Old 04-20-2011, 01:20 PM
Attila Bethlenfalvy Attila Bethlenfalvy is offline
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Always thought that white over black (reverse sometimes) is the epitome of class regardless of vehicle. Equate it to a mediocre woman - nothing to write home about - but clothed in a manner enhancing presentation to the nth degree. (Not a slant against your Lifeliner one bit.) Ideal secondary color balance from a design standpoint is 70/30. Tough sell on white hood and rear loading door...accurate period correct though.

Now I'm curious if Peter Adsten has any additional angles of that '60 Superior in the background.

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Old 04-20-2011, 01:44 PM
Paul Steinberg Paul Steinberg is offline
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It was Ed Renstrom that originally suggested using WD40 to soften the rubber, and it does work. MY 1969 came from the high desert area of Oregon, and the rubber was quite brittle. After a few treatments of the WD40, it was quite pliable, and I was able to remove the windows without damaging the rubber. I have not found a replacement rubber to use, because mine is still good enough to reuse. One reason that I suggest that you remove all windows, trim, door handles, etc. is because these are the places that seem to start rusting once the original paint is disturbed and the body repainted. It is a lot less costly to do it now, then to be chasing the rust issues in a couple of years as a result of the blasting process.
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Old 04-20-2011, 02:07 PM
Pat MacPhail Pat MacPhail is offline
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Hello Bill,
Looks like the car is coming along. My only concern with the choice of black is the body work has to be pretty bang on. That is a looong side to get straight.
Whatever your choice, the car will look stunning!
Cheers,Pat
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Old 04-20-2011, 04:57 PM
Steve Loftin Steve Loftin is offline
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Black over red, definitely!
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