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Old 02-01-2013, 10:26 AM
Richard Vyse Richard Vyse is offline
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Default Mounting weather stripping

Time to ask the experts. Mounting your weather stripping when you round the top of door going down do you cut and glue or do you just mount and round it over?

I've done it both ways but thought Ed or Paul could chime in here please.
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Old 02-01-2013, 12:25 PM
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John ED Renstrom John ED Renstrom is offline
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I done it both ways. cut 45s used the rubber tire patch cement to glue them together. kept a hinge on the top to hold them together and keep the corner from separating and just rounded the corner. I will say it's the one thing that superior got right they molding there right angles and then glued them to the straight runs. always salvage them if your can and reuse them. right now with Mikes rubber I have found that if you leave a pinch extra on the corner it will form a almost 45 end and you keep the rubber intact. now this is working with the MM run we are doing now. it's soft enough at this this to do this. a smaller style will be different. if you do use the pinch method then you will have to tape the corner flap back and shut the door on it that way to keep the rubber to take the set. if you don't you will have a leaking corner as the flap will not cover the hole in the gab.

so once again it's the nursing home thing it Just depends.
cut and glued 45 are the way MM did it. hard to keep glued and you wast a lot of material easy to get off measuring and gluing down but if done correctly look best. just a consent fight to keep in place for a month or so.

45s with a hinge flap are they safest way to get a good looking corner. they may still separate and you will fight them to keep them glued. you also have to be careful measuring and cutting. easy to wast a piece or two

the round the corner with a pinch is safest as it keeps the rubber in one piece but you my leave a gap. you still need to possession the rubber so it can take a set

superiors molded 45 are the best for superiors. but most are damaged warn out and torn. all the guys visiting them in the yards are not collection that one piece no longer made. only the rear lower corner is usually salvageable

so here is the three ways cut 45s hinged 45s pinched corners and superiors molded corners
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Old 02-01-2013, 12:26 PM
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the superior now
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Old 02-01-2013, 01:49 PM
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Ed, do you post your works in progress anywhere? I'd love to see what you've got going on with that Superior that's hiding in these pics!

I was enthralled watching the progress being made on Brendan's Superior hightop, and would love to watch as progress is made on your current project!

Abe
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Old 02-02-2013, 12:02 AM
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they are here http://www.dropshots.com/jer57747
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Old 02-02-2013, 01:42 PM
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Default

Of course Ed is the expert and makes it work either way. He also knows how to fix it when it doesn't quite work.

I found that when I did it the "round the corner method" I got it too tight and that resulted in the top corner piece being pulled in. This resulted in a small gap at the corner where the door meets the body. So when it warms up I'll have to redo that spot. I had better luck with the 45 degree cut and glue method.

One thing about using Michaels product is the very good quality of it. Easy to work with and highly recommended.

Let us know how you make out.
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Old 02-02-2013, 02:59 PM
Richard Vyse Richard Vyse is offline
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As usual you can always rely on Ed to come through with his professional knowledge. I've been advise to wait until the car is painted before mounting the weather stripping. Makes sense to prevent overspray.

Thanks Mr. Ed!!!!
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Old 02-02-2013, 03:54 PM
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Default Installation pictures.

Bill, Thank you for the comments and compliments. Ed was kind enough and tolerant enough of me with my ways, to help with the R & D of the door rubber. I could not of done it with out him and I want to acknowledge his work. I was wondering if you had installed any of your product yet. If you would please, in the future when you have the time or weather permits, I would like to see how your corners and long runs turned out. Seems that you could easily stretch the rubber when you are laying it down if you are not aware you are doing so. The flip side of the coin is, you can have the density to thick in a spot, if you don't give it a little bit of a pulll when you are laying it down. My issue would be laying it down in a nice straight line on the long runs. I would need a line of painters tape to get the line straight. It would be interesting knowing if you saved the old rubber or if you threw it away. How bad did the old stuff look? If you are following Ed's progress on Paul's coach you likely played the video Ed posted closing the door on Pauls coach. The sound it makes when Ed close's the door to me is utterly regal! With the sounddeadener and the gaskets, door weather stripping I just can not believe how sweet the sound of that darn door closing is. I am very jealous. That is going to turn out to be a must see coach when it is at a show.
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Old 02-02-2013, 05:22 PM
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I have installed a lot of door rubber over the years, and I have never liked cutting 45 degree and glue for the corners. In every case, it will eventually split at the corner, and have to be reglued. Doing it the way that Ed has done on my car is how I believe that it should be done. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, and what works best for you might not work best for me. On my cars, I never use cut corners, and Ed is doing them the way that I prefer.

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Old 02-03-2013, 12:28 PM
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the problem Bill stated is what kept me from rounding the 90s at first.
struggled with corners a long time till I accidentally got one to work. the fall back if you mess one up or it just won't cover the corner is to do like superior did. go up about 2 inches either side and cut it off. then using a different scrap cut a 45 on the bench. glue it and let it set up over night. the next day trim it a little longer then your splice and glue it down corner fists then wedge the gap by compressing the rubber. a little tension will keep it in place and allow for shrink. you can't keep your 45s together? use a little dental floss to sew them up glue them first then a X on the outer side sewn snug not tight will keep it together. I have had a lot better luck using the Weldwood professional grade contact cement then the 3-M products. less messy easer to work with and cheaper. a 1/2 inch sash brush bristles trim back to a couple inches works great. the key is clean door frame, clean rubber. apply your glue and go have coffee. let it set up. then don't stretch the rubber just lay it in place. you have trouble in a place you can always do the splice in rather they replace the whole thing
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