New A/C for the Lifeliner

Richard Vyse

Richard Vyse

While attending the Spring Fling I ran into a company that installs A/C systems in all cars. I talked about the 73 Lifeliner and he has a system that replaces the entire heat and cooling on the Caddy. They remove the dash and install a much smaller version with heat, defrost, and A/C and run ductwork to your current in dash vents. The only issue was how to install the A/C compressor. They have not done a Caddy but they do have a universal mounting bracket and they can make one if necessay.
System was $750 and about $1,000 to install taking about 2-3 days. They're located in Tampa so as soon as the bank account rebounds, you know where it will be headed.

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Find out if they use Vintage Air systems in their installs. I know several people who have Vintage Air in their cars, most have a lot of trouble out of them. I recommend you find out what they use & read some reviews before throwing down that kind of coin on a total replacement.
 
as the caddy uses a standard GM compressor using the gm mount should not be that much trouble. the last time I checked a complete system made for the car is some were around 1200. I'll look today if I get the chance.
 
I don't have their business card with me but I do know it is not Vintage Air. I checked them and was not impressed and heard the same Dwayne. I will check them out before moving forward.
 
Richard, doesn't your '73 come with factory a/c? NO WAY would I have one of these outfits remove what GM put in and replace it. But of course, that's coming from a refrigeration engineer for Edy's/Dreyer's who loves cars. I parted out a '62 S&S combination some years ago, took every single a/c thing out of it, and it's all in my '60 Eureka hearse now, working great. R-12, by the way. (yes, I have a stash)

Your '73 is factory equipped with a system called VIR, meaning Valves In Receiver. That's that big honkin metal canister with like 7 lines coming in and out of it, near the firewall. My '76 has this same system, and when working correctly, works great. The VIR contains the thermostatic expansion valve, the POA valve that keeps the evaporator from getting too cold and freezing over, and a receiver that stores liquid refrigerant that the system draws from. My money says that if you had a GOOD radiator shop custom fabricate a new set of Parflex refrigeration lines for your ENTIRE (read: ENTIRE, meaning front and back, if you have rear a/c) system, there is little doubt you can get it going like factory new for similar or less money. Don't forget, if you let them talk you into R-134a, you'll need a larger condenser (radiator thingie at the front of the car...$$$$). Otherwise your head pressures will be way high and you'll be blowing compressor seals left and right. Ask Paul Cichon about this. He lived it. Sorry that's all the time I have to write now, but I'll be glad to consult in more depth with you about this if you'd like. I wish I had paid more attention to your engine compartment and system in Albany, could have been a bit more well versed. Good luck! Tom
 
I hear ya Tom but this is the deal. I took it to a local A/C shop in 2009 and he converted it to 134-a before consulting me. Then he uses a jump wire of sorts and runs that from the control switch (in the dash) to the evaporator and the system is working. Cools as well as one would expect from a converted system. What he failed to tell me was the system was on and I mean on 100%. That works fine around town but on a trip the compressor never cycles. When Terri and I were on our way to the PCS meet in Flint the wires caught fire in Columbia, SC and you can see how they burned through the harness. I haven't had it looked at since. I have also been told the control head is bad and purchased another one. The problem is finding someone who knows how these things work with all those wires and vacuum lines which by the way, most of mine have been eaten through by the Ohio mice.
In a nutshell, it is a mess. The easiest thing to do is replace the whole system with one that is designed to work on 134-a freon. The compressor is smaller and more efficent. On my Vette it has a new 134-a freon compressor and all the proper condensor and driers with it and it can freeze you out.

I will do my homework before I truat any company from now on!

http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/?gclid=COqhut_J8qcCFcKd7QodVSnqBQ
 
Richard, doesn't your '73 come with factory a/c? NO WAY would I have one of these outfits remove what GM put in and replace it. But of course, that's coming from a refrigeration engineer for Edy's/Dreyer's who loves cars. I parted out a '62 S&S combination some years ago, took every single a/c thing out of it, and it's all in my '60 Eureka hearse now, working great. R-12, by the way. (yes, I have a stash)
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I bought a 62 Limo for the same reason, everything I sold from it made all the parts for the A/C install free parts and I also used the alternator and dual master cylinder to install in my 61 S&S using R-12:drive2:
 
Tom Hoczyk said:
NO WAY would I have one of these outfits remove what GM put in and replace it. But of course, that's coming from a refrigeration engineer for Edy's/Dreyer's who loves cars. Tom
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I guess you are the man I need to talk to when I go to start figuring out the A/C in my limo. I can't even begin to wonder how much new hoses for that thing are going to cost, let alone anything else. I was lucky enough to score an NOS rear power servo for the rear unit on Ebay last week. The compressor does run and cycles on and off, but does not cool. I can only imagine how much R-12 the system in that thing holds! Hopefully it won't take much to get fixed, I about died in that thing last summer (NO vent setting on the climate control on a Fleetwood 75). I don't want to spend another summer driving around in a black car with no A/C. At least the Pennsylvania mice didn't chew on my vacuum lines, they all look like new (sorry Richard, had to say it).
 
been that rout with the 72 . I can tell stories of getting taken to the cleaners over the ac in that car because I did not know what the man was doing to me. so I understand. now this out fit here Clams to have most everything necessary for the system of a conversion. I did not find a Kit like you can get for the suburban. to change the whole system . the dash tem control units are around as a rebuilt but they are not cheap. messing with the vacuum lines is not a easy task but with a shop manual one can do it. I'm not sure were the rear AC unit is on your lifliner. but if it's behind the seat and you can plum in to that it will pull air out of the cab I would just not hook it in to the system. some of them did all ready. one could put the fan on low and just let it pull the air from the cab and it would cool the back end well. look the system in Tampa over well. if the compressor goes on the same place. they controls set in were the factory ones did and they use the same vents. then it's worth thinking about. nothing wrong with 134 in a system designed for it or on that has been properly converted to it. but it's the half A$$ over charged maybe it will work long enough to get the man down the road things that really eat up your wallet. but a R&R man that has no Ida what is going wrong is not what you want on your AC. the old geezer that is will to try things may get it fixed, but I would rather replace one or two parts that are questionable and have it work then come back and pay for it again. there are new style condensers on e-bay at a good price. all it takes is one old part half plugged up to shut down the system. in my case it was the muffler off the high side of the compressor. spent 1500 on Ac repairs told everyone that I had that part laying in back. the last man finally changed it. but by then we had blown the O rings in the compressor head. it was rebuild the compressor or add coolant every year. :badbad:
 

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To Richard, Daniel, Shawn,

Richard, I had forgotten that we were talking about Dave's old '73, so now the picture about the mice is lots clearer. I must admit I'm quite appalled with someone doing such a pitiful wiring job that the system was always on. One thing you can count on: Air Conditioning is a rather pure science, that being black and white. It's either going to work correctly or it's not. If it doesn't work in the end, it's the same as not working at the beginning, so lots of time and money have been wasted. I knew this going into the '60 Eureka a/c project, and believe me, there were many unforeseen stumbling blocks, but with more time, and more money, they were able to be resolved.

I didn't mention it earlier, but just this morning I had a little bit of laproscopic outpatient surgery, so for the next several weeks I'm laying low. If you like, it would be an opportunity for you to phone me and I'll help you the best I can. 260-433-7379. Tom

Daniel, Your '68 has the predecessor automatic a/c system to Richard's. In a limo, as in a combination or ambulance, only the refrigerant system is shared front to rear. The controls are, generally speaking, independent, front to rear. Fortunately, the GM Cadillac shop manual is pretty comprehensive regarding limo a/c.

Shawn, I've also thought about using the dual-chamber master cylinder on my '60, just as you have. Any downsides you can share with us? Did you also install the balancing valve that's on the split between front and rear lines? Thanks.... Tom
 
OK here lets be honest and up front something I have never been. I understand your desire to rid you car of the problematic factory air. but you still have the problem of heating when necessary. so if I were you I would get that rear unit place it behind the seat or into the compartment behind the drivers seat and plumb the vents forward. then put the word out that you want to find the none ac components to replace your ac unit. this unit could be split for the vents front or rear or both. would be a easy relatively in expensive new system for the old caddy. that is if they can mount the air compressor were you factory one was. you haven't torn up the car only added a free standing unit much like the rear air was. my evaporator on the cb for rear air, was behind the seat. it drew air from the cab before sending it into the back. the only thing with this system is, is not a fresh air system it only recirculates the air in the car. but it would definitely cool the cab. if you wanted to you could plume one vent up to put air out of the dash vents to. but this rear air would be a simple keep things cool add on. if I remember right that how Art fixed up his 66 for the trip to thr southren cal meet.
 
John ED Renstrom said:
OK here lets be honest and up front something I have never been. I understand your desire to rid you car of the problematic factory air. but you still have the problem of heating.
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Actually Ed, this is a self-contained unit offering heat and A/C and defrost. According to their website, they remove your entire old system, install a new system behind the dash, duct it to your factory duct work, on some occasions use your original control-head for operations.

Looks like the right way to go for me. It's not like I'm hurting the value of these old cars.

Look at this picture to se the complete unit behind the dash. You run your water and freon hoses through the firewall to the appropriate connections.

Here's a Corvette installation manual to see how it works.

http://www.classicautoair.com/manuals/1-1053Manual.pdf
 

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Hey Ed, I know someone who put a unit behind their front seat and ducted it under the seat forward. Seems to work for them quite well. Still waiting to hear from the install man to see if you can do this. The unit itself costs about $1100 and hope the install guy is a grand or less.

We'll see!
 
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