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  #291  
Old 12-06-2018, 12:54 AM
Paul Steinberg Paul Steinberg is offline
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You should have gotten a bleeder kit with the new master cylinder. If you didn't, go back to the store, and ask them if they have a spare. It is 2 nuts with a small barbed fitting on the end, and 2 plastic tubes. You install the nuts into the line ports, and fill the master cylinder with brake fluid. Insert the 2 plastic lines into the reservoir, and the lines are held to the master with two small metal clips. Then gently depress the pedal to bleed the air out of the master. Add fluid as necessary, and keep pushing the pedal until no more air bubble appear. You must depress the brake pedal slowly, otherwise you will blow brake fluid all over the engine compartment and the fenders, doing great damage. Once the master is bled, you can go to the furthers rear wheel cylinder, and put a piece of hose on the bleeder after you open it. Put the other end of the hose into a car with a small amount of brake fluid in the bottom, enough to keep the bottom of the hose immersed. Then over the next hour, the line will self bleed. Just check it periodically, to make sure that the reservoir is kept full, and that no more air is coming out of the line. Then close that bleeder and do the next furthers one from the master cylinder, the same way. Do all 4 wheels this way, and you are done.
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  #292  
Old 12-06-2018, 10:15 AM
Blake Sherwin Blake Sherwin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Steinberg View Post
You should have gotten a bleeder kit with the new master cylinder. If you didn't, go back to the store, and ask them if they have a spare. It is 2 nuts with a small barbed fitting on the end, and 2 plastic tubes. You install the nuts into the line ports, and fill the master cylinder with brake fluid. Insert the 2 plastic lines into the reservoir, and the lines are held to the master with two small metal clips. Then gently depress the pedal to bleed the air out of the master. Add fluid as necessary, and keep pushing the pedal until no more air bubble appear. You must depress the brake pedal slowly, otherwise you will blow brake fluid all over the engine compartment and the fenders, doing great damage. Once the master is bled, you can go to the furthers rear wheel cylinder, and put a piece of hose on the bleeder after you open it. Put the other end of the hose into a car with a small amount of brake fluid in the bottom, enough to keep the bottom of the hose immersed. Then over the next hour, the line will self bleed. Just check it periodically, to make sure that the reservoir is kept full, and that no more air is coming out of the line. Then close that bleeder and do the next furthers one from the master cylinder, the same way. Do all 4 wheels this way, and you are done.
Thanks, it did not come with a bleed kit, but I was planning on doing the master bleed the way Ed mentioned, by buying 2 extra lines and bending them. Going to try to arrange a friend to come over soon to help me with the wheel bleeds
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  #293  
Old 01-02-2019, 10:49 AM
Blake Sherwin Blake Sherwin is offline
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Well its back on the road again!

I do have a funny story though:

Monday night i picked up the hearse from the local Tate Boys shop after they bled the brakes and changed oil. On the drive home once i got up to about 40-45 I heard a loud banging and metal clanking that SEEMED to be coming from under the car. So I was worried my transmission was starting to fail or something, so i was scared i had another big repair coming up thinking "I hope I can get it home"

So yesterday...I drive it again and get it nice and warmed up, take it on the highway and get it to 65 mph and the noise starts up again real fast and loud. But this time I am more mentally collected and realize its not coming from underneath, it sounds like the roof.

I look around and try to think "what could be making that noise", then it dawns on my what it was. My window mounted reindeer antlers have plastic pieces that were banging on the roof with the wind. I got home and ripped those plastic pieces off.

Not ready to remove the antlers just yet. I still need to drive it a bit and make some smiles.
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  #294  
Old 01-20-2019, 02:26 PM
Miguel Robinson Miguel Robinson is offline
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When first starting, and backing out of the driveway, as soon as I put it in drive, the moment I would hit the gas it would stall. Started about 4 times and eventually after revving a bit I was able to get going. After that and after driving a bit it didnt stall anymore, just bogged.
I am sorry to jump in here, but that problem sounds like the choke and the carb is not working right.

Have that dialed in before chasing anything else.
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  #295  
Old 01-21-2019, 11:25 AM
Blake Sherwin Blake Sherwin is offline
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I am sorry to jump in here, but that problem sounds like the choke and the carb is not working right.

Have that dialed in before chasing anything else.
Thats what the shop told me, but it turned out to be the fuel filter. I solved this problem for now by removing the fuel filter with a return line, and installing a new filter with no return line.

For some reason using the return line results in bogging. I do plan on eventually trying to figure out what other underlying problem is causing the return line to be problematic but at the moment I have more important things above it.

Over the weekend i tested the coolant and its good to only 5 degrees, so thats moved to the top of the list. Going to get that done this weekend whether i do it myself or end up taking it in. One way or another that has to be done urgently. It got down to 18 degrees over the weekend, so cutting it close.

Then 2nd on my list right now is researching regarding a seatbelt or tether to properly secure my sons booster seat.

Earlier this month, after letting it sit 2 months, and getting the oil changed it started to run quite poorly. While idling and warming up in the driveway it would sputter randomly while idling and while giving it throttle. But I've been giving it lengthy drive time each weekend and its been getting better every week, and its back to running as it was before it sat for 2 months. Maybe the cleaner oil played a role? I dont know.
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  #296  
Old 01-21-2019, 12:36 PM
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John ED Renstrom John ED Renstrom is offline
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Now to but that buster seat in. Is the spare tire behind the passengers side or drivers on that car? If its passengers take it out. Get you the combination out of a car. put the cross belt were yours is and the shoulder strap were the tie down for the tire is. Bring it up over the top of the seat. Use a hard bolt to fasten it in. If the tire is on the drivers side the you could use the upper mounting hardware for the jump seat it is bolted threw the divider.just use a hard bolt In about the same place. This would be your best possible choices to have the buster seat up front.

Me of course i think of my first born ridding up and down the hills in the 50 jeep i had in one of the hook over the back of the seat car seats we got at some second hand store. So one had replaced the right bucket with a bus seat so it had one of the first 20-80 seats put in a rig. Bounced over a lot of rocks that way. Hard to beleve she is all most 50 now.
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  #297  
Old 01-21-2019, 08:10 PM
Blake Sherwin Blake Sherwin is offline
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Actually i see no spare tire on either side. I better take care of that. Here are two pictures of the jump seat latch, and a beam behind the seat. Is this beam where the spare mounts?

Also excuse the dust. Its from when i sanded and painted one of the floor pans, i need to give it a wipe down.
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  #298  
Old 01-21-2019, 10:16 PM
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Thats it. But I would not hook it to that strap. Go to the brace were the strap is welded on and drill down hook the chest strap on the bottom . That way you go threw 3 layers of tin in the most reinforced spot.
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  #299  
Old 01-22-2019, 03:19 PM
Blake Sherwin Blake Sherwin is offline
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Thats it. But I would not hook it to that strap. Go to the brace were the strap is welded on and drill down hook the chest strap on the bottom . That way you go threw 3 layers of tin in the most reinforced spot.
Thanks, I am sending these pictures to the contact i have been talking to at SeatBelt Planet here in OK to get his thoughts. The other option of just taking him with me around the neighborhood only is also an acceptable option, as i dont want to go wild with modifications either.
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Last edited by Blake Sherwin; 01-22-2019 at 03:19 PM. Reason: typo
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  #300  
Old 01-28-2019, 11:07 AM
Blake Sherwin Blake Sherwin is offline
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I got my antifreeze taken care of Saturday. So now I'm good for -40 degrees. I think the guys at the shop accidentally left my fuel filter on though when they parked it, as the battery was too low to start when I picked it up. Easy mistake though.

They jumped me with a portable jumper thing and I drove it home, but strangely after i picked up the car none of the turn signals were working. I gave it a good charge after i got home but havent tested since then. I dont know if it had to do with the low battery or what, but I found it very strange.
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