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Old 08-16-2018, 08:24 AM
Paul Steinberg Paul Steinberg is offline
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Default Got Rust...

I recently learned about this product. I know that there are a lot of rust conversion treatment products on the market, however, I was told by a number of hobbyists and restorers, that this is the Rolls Royce of these products. There is nothing better in their words... https://fertanusa.com/
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Old 08-16-2018, 09:18 AM
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Nice, I may have to buy some in the future. I have a jug of the rustoleum rust remover now, would be nice to compare. The amazon reviews made me laugh though:

https://www.amazon.com/FERTAN-23520-.../dp/B01BL88RAO

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"It didn't do what I thought it would do. I had some rust spots on my vehicle that wanted to use this product on. I cleaned the area first and then applied the gel to the area and let it sit for a good while. Wiped it off with a damp rag and didn't really remove the rust. Didn't really do anything. Instead I had to sand the rust away."
I guess some buyers dont realize you still have to actually scrub it, its not magic
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Old 08-16-2018, 10:31 AM
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You have to understand the products to know how they work. They all contain a acid base normally phosphoric. You can use coke as a good converter. Just that clean up is a chore. Converters don't remove rust. They render it harmless by encapsulating it chemically. You sand threw that layer and find rust. Other products like Bill Hursurds Miracle paint render it harmless by smothering in a layer of hard paint. Bill's is smooth there is a bondo product that looks like under coating when dry. These are call encapsulaters. then there are the removers. All acids, older ones like molasses or viniger have been used for long time. The evapor-rust sold at harbor fright uses this Science. They desolve the rust and remove it leaving the pits that need to be filled in or ground down. The require immersion and time. One way to do panels with them is to wet it down and cover it with plastic. Cling wrap will work. The best way is to remove rust with an abrasive. Grind sand or blast it away. But all methods require a water clean up. Then you get to deal with the flash rust that accrues after that.
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Old 08-16-2018, 01:58 PM
Walter Suiter Walter Suiter is offline
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Ayup, Phosphoric acid with zink dissolved. Probably 5-8% Phosphoric.
At least the Krauts provide an honest instruction sheet.
. Let FERTAN RUST CONVERTER work for at least 24 hours when used in temperatures of
5595F (1235C). Surface will turn black creating a protective zinc layer.
In dry climates (i.e. direct sunlight over 95F (35C) or humidity under 50%),
spray light water mist after 1-2 hours to moisten treated area.
In cold temperatures of 4154F (512C), let work for at least 48 hours.
Do not use under 41F (5C)

Key to acid conversion is thorough and complete wetting of the rust down to the microcraters into the good steel.
You don't do that you will find rust under the Iron Phosphate layer.

They probably charge out the eyeballs for it, and people will buy it because it's the New MIRACLE.

Actually it's a good process, done right no primer is needed, because the Iron Phosphate layer is bonded tot he steel, and enamel sticks well to Iron Phosphate.

And then there is the off label use of marine temporary repair polymeric coating called POR-15. Good slop for 6 months to get back to port so proper repair can be made, fantastic for seperating suckers from money.

If you want any of it in bulk it's available from the blender fairly cheap, but unless you're picking the barrel up at the loading dock freight and HazMat charges will kill you.

The molasses family of products aren't converters, they chelate rust away by stealing 1 Oxygen atom from the rust molecule. Work well IF you have a big tank and a bag of cow molasses from the feed store.

And lets not neglect mentioning the electro plating of rust off a desired object onto a collector. Not much different from good old replating of car bumpers we did in the 70s.

It's all about doing the process correctly.
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Old 08-16-2018, 10:00 PM
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doing the process correctly is the answer. there are plenty of products out there. used properly all will work.
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Old 08-16-2018, 10:31 PM
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Daniel Scully Daniel Scully is offline
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Default Rust

This fender is starting to rust. I guess after 30 + years outside it would.
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Old 08-16-2018, 11:46 PM
Peter Grave Peter Grave is offline
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Harbor Freight sells a deruster that was highly recomended to me by a radio restorer friend. I just got a container of it will report on results as soon as I test it.
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Old 08-17-2018, 12:30 AM
Walter Suiter Walter Suiter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Grave View Post
Harbor Freight sells a deruster that was highly recomended to me by a radio restorer friend. I just got a container of it will report on results as soon as I test it.
Is it called EvapOrust?

If so it's a chelator, same process as molasses, slightly cleaned solution.
Costs a couple bucks a gallon from the blender at their dock.

One thing I should probably mention, Phosphoric in even low 5% concentration will dissolve aluminum in short time. When using acid processes it's a good idea to test.
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Old 08-17-2018, 10:24 AM
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I have used it a lot but unless they move that dock closer to me I'll just have to keep paying the high price.
I have a bait box with the lift out strainer for the small parts it works will. Makes a good carb cleaner also.
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Old 08-18-2018, 10:29 AM
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we for got one more rust removal process. as my old boss would say Cherry red the rust is dead.
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