Battery....

Shawn Blyler

Shawn Blyler

Calling Mr. Renstrom......or anyone else who knows the answer. How large should the battery in my car be? Present one is 2 years old, but only 675 CCA which I think is WAY too small. Car starts fine when cold, but when it is warmed up and has sat after being turned off, it starts like the battery is half dead. It just BARELY turns over, and has that "battery-on-the-way-out" sound. I am half afraid to shut it off anywhere after I have driven it a bit. I have looked in the owner's manual and the shop manual, but they are not very descriptive as to the CCA, only wattage (does anyone use that anymore?). I don't think the alternator is at fault, as at night, the headlights are very bright and do not dim when it is sitting idling at a light, etc., nor does the charge light on the dash glow at all. I am just thinking that once it gets warm and the starter is hot, the battery doesn't have enough A** to get it started properly. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
 
Addition...

I tried to edit my previous post, but the time limit expired, so here is what I wanted to add. Both battery cables and the starter have been replaced in the last two years and there is no corrosion on the terminals and the cables are as tight as I can get them.
 
hard starting when warm sound like a starter to me. but if you know it's good check the timing. if it's to far advanced it will act the same way. fires up good cold but kick back agents the started when warm. go there the car and set everything then see if it's still giving you trouble. I have never seen a battery start cold and not start warm.
 
battery and...

Shawn,
Even with new clean battery connections you need to have the correct size wire/cables. Some new replacements I have seen on the shelves in the parts stores make me wonder how small a wire the manufacturers will try to sell as a cable. I think cable size was discussed on this site in another thread.
I think the problem is not the battery, but the starter or cables. Feel you cables the next time you have this problem. They should not be hot or even very warm. If they are they may not be the correct size for the power that is going through them.
As for the needed size (CCA) for a battery I would think bigger is better. Anything 750 or bigger should get you started and take care of accessories. Of course the idea is that the alternator should run most everything after the car is started. I am sure you will get more opinions here. But you did ask.
Mike
 
I agree with check your timing and your dwell should be at 35. I try and stuff the largest battery I have in the tray and check your wires. Chevy in the later times used aluminum wire and it in my openion is not as durable as copper. If you need a heavier ga. wire and don't like the prices, check into having a set made at napa or a parts house, and check your ground, I try and get a good connection to the chassis and one to the block. Good luck
 
Thanks guys. You both make perfect sense. I guess even though the starter is only two years old, it could be bad. Also, now that you mention it, the cables do look a bit small. I will have to try both things and hopefully one or both will do the trick.
 
of course the key here is it starts fine when cold. a #4 cable is now standard and was what gm used in the 70s anyway. but if the starter is getting hot it will refuse to turn over. but it's not the battery
 
Use what ever battery is called for on a standard cad of your year. Use larger battery cables. Check the timing to make sure it is advancing and retarding as it should.
 
Thanks...

for your help. I purchased a new set of custom made cables on Ebay last night with #4 gauge wire and I am going to look at Summit Racing to see if they make a high-torque starter for Cadillac.
 
It's the starter

It's the starter. If you mean 'High torque" as in gear reduction starter, don't do that. They spin slower than original equipment and that won't help you. Get a new or rebuilt OEM starter. I drag race on the National NHRA circuit and am very versed on race car starters. When the car was built, I'm sure the starter that was on it was very reliable. Go back to that. My 2 cents...
 
I appreciate the help. I will get a new starter and change the cables while I am at it, as they do look very small.....here is a pic of the new ones I got, can't hurt to change them for the price ($35). I just noticed that the ground cable end is attached to the front of the cylinder head on the battery side...is that where it is supposed to be? Thanks again guys.
 

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Correction...

I don't know what I was thinking, but the ground cable is NOT attached to the cylinder head, but rather to the bracket for the air conditioner compressor where it attaches to the intake manifold--so the bolt goes directly into the intake manifold, through the compressor bracket. Just got back from auto parts store with reman. starter. Will change it tonight and see what develops. Will keep you all posted.....thanks.
 
Fixed!!!

A big :thankyou2: to everyone for their help. Put the new starter on, and now you can't get your hand off the key fast enough. The red wire that goes on the large center stud on the starter had a bad terminal on it as well--it was in two pieces when the wire was taken off. I am sure that didn't help things either. Thanks everyone, I appreciate all of you suggestions and help!
 
don't throw that starter away, there easy enough to rebuild. I have never see a caddy that the ground cable did not go straight down to the frame. the engine should have a ground strap from it to the frame also.
 
Starting

When was the last time that your timing belt or chain was changed. In my meager experience, what happens is that the timing belt or chain stretches when the engine is hot causing the hot starting problems. It may not be in your electrical system at all.
John Dorgan
 
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