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  #191  
Old 08-20-2018, 09:52 AM
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I made some progress this weekend on various parts of the car. Nothing major but progress nonetheless. I adjusted the hood stoppers to get both sides of the hood properly aligned and until I can attempt some sewing I used some safety pins to keep the zippered headliner up.

Got my fluids all topped for next weekend and took it for a 20 minute or so highway drive. Wednesday I may take off one of the door jamb switches in the coach area and take it to oreillys for a comparison. I would like to start doing those one at a time. I know the passenger coach door has an issue with not fully going off sometimes so thats first on the list. While I am there maybe I can find a test light.

This weekend I am going to a local show "Wings, Wheels and Wishes" a benefit car show for the local Make a Wish foundation. Should be a fun show as the airplanes are flying in during the show. My son has never seen an airplane up close so I think he will enjoy it. Last car show we went to they arranged for the National Guard to land a Blackhawk Helicopter, so that was fun
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  #192  
Old 08-20-2018, 10:47 AM
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There is nothing new that are the same switches as the ones on the car. Try to clean the ones you have is your best bet. I found out that the evapo rust will do them nicely. Just stand then on end with liquid all most touching the cardboard mount and let it work cleaning the brass connections. The dome lights work by switching the ground. When the door opens the contacts close completing the circuit to ground. That one have to wiggle to get the light to come on just needs cleaned.
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  #193  
Old 08-20-2018, 10:30 PM
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here is what they look like when they are apart. not a whole lot to one of them.
moving parts are plastic the contacts are brass. the rivets are soft copper and you can pry up the paean and pull them thre the bake-o-lite. this one had eaten the bottom hole threw and the pin could not make contact any more.
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  #194  
Old 08-20-2018, 10:59 PM
Paul Steinberg Paul Steinberg is offline
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Ed.. Can I send you some of mine for restoration? You never cease to amaze me how you take some things apart, fix them, and put them back together. All I seem to be able to do now, is loose parts. Seems that the part gets separated from the car, and refuses to be found, so they can be reunited. Looking for the missing part you find all sorts of other things that you hadn't seen for years, or don't even remember having.
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  #195  
Old 08-21-2018, 09:39 AM
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Thanks for the info, I'm taking the next 3 days off work so hopefully I have some time to get a few things done
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  #196  
Old 08-27-2018, 10:44 AM
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5 day weekend just wasnt enough, but then vacations from work are never long enough. I didnt get alot done but I put white lithium grease on all of my door hinges and on the hood hinges. Wrapped a rubber band around the metal piece of the driver side sun visor so it stops falling down. Got my tire pressure done on all tires, and gave the bumpers and hub caps a good wash.

Unfortunately my voltage meter stopped working earlier in the week. Not a huge deal as it wasnt original anyway, but it was a nice convenience. I took it apart and the connections inside are all fine. My guess is where ever its connected to the battery is probably disconnected somewhere, I just havent been able to trace the wires yet. Its definitely not at the top of my priority list though

We went to a car and plane show saturday but it was too hot and humid to really enjoy. I am inclined to not go to anymore shows until it cools down in the fall.
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Old 08-30-2018, 10:10 AM
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I want to entertain a theory here that has been buzzing around my head. Backtracking to my return line problem I had awhile back.

Previous I discovered that when I run a filter with a return line the car runs horrible and bogs under any reasonable load, but if I run without the return line then it runs perfectly fine. This of course has introduced vapor lock.

It has been mentioned that the return line may be clogged. But when discussing this was another car show guy a few months back he raised an interesting point. He said if the return line WAS clogged it would be as if there was no return line since no fuel would be getting through, so he said I should check my fuel pressure.

Since then this has been on my list, but I wanted to see what you all think, does this sound like a feasible cause of bog occuring only with a return line. It makes sense to me that fuel being pumped down an additional line could cause issues if my pressure is low to begin with. If my fuel pressure is low or my pump is gimped somehow does this seem like a feasible scenario?

I am hoping to get this checked soon and find out for sure if my pressure is ok, but ive been theorizing that IF this is the case and I resolve any low pressure then I may be able to switch back to utilizing my return line and in turn reduce my vaporlock, and can work on my AC without fear of making vaporlock worse
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  #198  
Old 08-30-2018, 11:01 AM
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When you start having problems go to the last thing you fixed. So in the fuel delivery system. What is the first thing that got done on the car? Send in your original carb, sell that thing they put on to one of your buddys you don't much care for and the car will run right. You start swapping parts to things not designed for that car your tinkering on it all the time. It is passable that that carb takes a higher fuel presser the the origional. Most every one with that swap uses a electric pump. That is why the advice given to you first by a number of people was fix what you got correctly. In the long run it is less expensive and gives you the best drivability.
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  #199  
Old 09-10-2018, 10:50 AM
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With the nice weather over the weekend I got a few things done. I did take off one of the door jamb switches and it was different. I didnt take it fully apart but I did clean the contacts that the screw fastens to with some WD-40.

Checked my interior bulbs and confirmed they are all GE68, also dismantled the coach lights on the sides to make sure it was the same bulb and it was. Removed the rear dome light housing and got the serial. Found that the dome light is the same as a 58-67 Chevy Impala. Ordered 2 dome light covers for $11.

I also took some WD-40 to the casket rollers as they all took some effort to move. Now they spin really well. I didnt do a whole lot of work, it was mostly small stuff, but it was nice to do it in cool weather.

I have ordered a few LED 2950k bulbs (warm white color) to test and see how they look and work in my rear interior lights, since LED uses so much less power, and dont generate as much heat.

I am not a fan of the bright blue-ish white LED lights, so I had to seek out a vintage colored bulb. 2700k is the ideal spec for vintage applications, but the bulb that interchanges with the GE68 I could only get 2950k, which should be fine.

I will report back how they look and take pictures in case anyone else is interested. My main concern is whether they will give an authentic look or not.

Here is the link to what I'm going to try:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...BoCH1EQAvD_BwE
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  #200  
Old 09-10-2018, 01:26 PM
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Most of the warm white are excitable. I put them in most of mine. But you do have to be careful getting them as a lot of the sellers have no idea what they are selling. Those lights ground threw the switch not the base. power goes to the light first threw it then down to the jam switch.
You can do the wd trick on the switches in the car. Hold the trip down spray it in the crack top and bottom the work the switch. What your trying to do is clean the green off the brass so it makes contact.
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