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  #271  
Old 11-06-2018, 02:35 PM
Paul Steinberg Paul Steinberg is offline
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I just called NAPA to get the part number. Their part number for the master cylinder, based on the black painted booster, and 4 wheel drum brakes for the commercial chassis is P1879, with a mechanics discounted price of $55.89, plus $11.00 core charge. I would definitely hold onto the core, rather than turning it in, in the event that you should ever need another rebuild, and they are not available. Take a picture of your master cylinder or take it with you to make sure that you get the correct item.
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  #272  
Old 11-06-2018, 04:53 PM
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Blake Sherwin Blake Sherwin is offline
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I just called NAPA to get the part number. Their part number for the master cylinder, based on the black painted booster, and 4 wheel drum brakes for the commercial chassis is P1879, with a mechanics discounted price of $55.89, plus $11.00 core charge. I would definitely hold onto the core, rather than turning it in, in the event that you should ever need another rebuild, and they are not available. Take a picture of your master cylinder or take it with you to make sure that you get the correct item.
Thanks, I will do exactly that. Getting a replacement will also mean I can leisurely work on cleaning the old one myself and maybe learn something in the process.
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  #273  
Old 11-07-2018, 02:19 PM
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I went to NAPA today on my lunchbreak, took my master cylinder with me. Referenced the part number and he pulled it up, and looked at mine a bit. He then pulled out a brush and cleaned the underside and lookup the number on the bottom, then he measured the bore size which impressed me. He then found a completely different part for me. Said the part I currently have is listed as being for a 71-76 AMC.

So he said this is likely NOT the original part and someone has replaced it down the line, but he said the part he found for me, if I was using this, will definitely be a fit and work.

I ordered the part and am waiting on it. It even has the lines on the correct side.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMAM2042

Part number: M2042

NAPA was way helpful than any of the people at O'Reillys or AutoZone have been in the past. I was pretty amazed at their service
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  #274  
Old 11-07-2018, 02:54 PM
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John ED Renstrom John ED Renstrom is offline
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it pays to shop around. the clue was the brass fittings. it should not have them on the master with the lines going into the fitting. but the lines will go right into the master. as Bendex made them for both they would fit on, all most.

you may need both lines from the junction to the master. the hardest part of getting the old car up to speed is fixing what everyone else cobbled. see carborater
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  #275  
Old 11-08-2018, 10:28 AM
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While I wait for the booster and master to arrive I still need to fix this broken brake line. The nut on the junction box will not loosen no matter what and its already starting to get rounded. As far as I can see I have two options:

1. Cut the damaged end of the line somehow and continue using it.

2. Use a propane torch to heat the nut and try to remove it.

# 2 concerns me a little as I dont really like the idea of using fire down near the engine. And when it comes to cutting the line I am not sure how I would get it back into the fitting if there are no threads, unless they are self threading.

Any recommendation on the best option to repair the line? Also was looking into flaring kits
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Last edited by Blake Sherwin; 11-08-2018 at 10:41 AM. Reason: additional info
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  #276  
Old 11-08-2018, 01:44 PM
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cut it in two. use a pair of vice gripes. as once you have damaged the fitting it's toast. if the block is not stable you will need to hold it also as you take the line off. as I said that not factory they night have used some lock tight on it who can say. but never use heat brake fluid is highly flammable. you be lucky not to loose the car.
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  #277  
Old 11-08-2018, 02:58 PM
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cut it in two. use a pair of vice gripes. as once you have damaged the fitting it's toast. if the block is not stable you will need to hold it also as you take the line off. as I said that not factory they night have used some lock tight on it who can say. but never use heat brake fluid is highly flammable. you be lucky not to loose the car.
I've already been using a small pair of vice grips with no success, this is how I have rounded it. But cutting the line would give me more room to work with. I will cut it down to the nut and keep at it, and keep putting PB on there.
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  #278  
Old 11-08-2018, 07:05 PM
Paul Steinberg Paul Steinberg is offline
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Skip the PB Blaster, and go to Deep Creep by Seafoam. You will run into problems unless you use a good quality tubing wrench.
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  #279  
Old 11-08-2018, 10:22 PM
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biger vice grip might help. if you rounded it with them you were not tight enough
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  #280  
Old 11-08-2018, 10:44 PM
Peter Grave Peter Grave is offline
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Default brake line

If you have cut the line try using a good quality not China six point socket I would assume 3/8 there may be enough left of the fitting to get it loose this way. Good luck.
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