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  #21  
Old 07-10-2019, 09:45 PM
Paul Steinberg Paul Steinberg is offline
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What is the length of the quarter from the door opening to the bumper? The difficult molding to find is the rear garnish molding around the taillight. One year, one model only! Took me over a year to find one for my '62 BelAir.
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  #22  
Old 07-10-2019, 11:03 PM
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Kurt Arends Kurt Arends is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Steinberg View Post
What is the length of the quarter from the door opening to the bumper? The difficult molding to find is the rear garnish molding around the taillight. One year, one model only! Took me over a year to find one for my '62 BelAir.
Looks like 20 yards!! How in the world would you load a stretcher in th back of that thing with the way that gate opens??
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  #23  
Old 07-11-2019, 10:48 AM
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There has been some
Pushing in and out on the car so the bumper has done a number on the back corner one also. Front eyebrows are damaged the same. I need at least one extra quarter one or two front door to make up for the streach. Haven't got to get out and check yet for any of them. But there has to be a few in Edgmont or Sturges. Sturges is out till after the rally. Elected to get new drums for the rear rather then mess with new ones so just waiting on them to get here.
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  #24  
Old 07-13-2019, 08:53 PM
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used up some 30 year old parts today. that's a long time to keep things but it's nice to work with good stuff. they went right on. that's a first for steel lines
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  #25  
Old 07-16-2019, 11:20 AM
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final getting enough stuff to get the brakes on the rear. did the rear lines yesterday. now I know those of you that live in the mid west, east cost do brake lines as a matter of course. but cars out here don't have that problem. I have never changed or even thought of changing a brake line for rust. the Pinner corp use copper tube and crush fitting to do there stretch. the copper was good. took a couple pictures under neath were they did the frame splice. nice job of it. we have the jack stands in the y at the rear. when I jacked the car up at the front A arm to get under the front it lifted the frame off the rear jack stand on that side
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  #26  
Old 07-16-2019, 04:41 PM
Paul Steinberg Paul Steinberg is offline
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That is how it was done on my 1963 Pinner Chrysler, and copper tubing held together to the steel tubing with compression fittings isn't considered safe or acceptable type of repair. I suggest that you either replace it with a full length of steel tubing, or at least cut it out, and double flare the steel tubing and install a new steel tube using the proper steel tubing fittings. There are no short cuts when it comes to safety.
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  #27  
Old 07-16-2019, 07:56 PM
Peter Grave Peter Grave is online now
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Just a note here Pennsylvania has a stiff safety inspection. I was a licensed inspector. The rule was copper tubing fails no inspection.
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  #28  
Old 07-16-2019, 09:53 PM
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Standard splice in the day. The fuel line is done the same. As was the Armbruster. Never fear it's steel now.
But the basket case has reared its ugly head with the brakes. Missing one piece here and there that you can only buy in a kit. The adjuster kit is kind of expensive. Buy the time i got new drums shoes small parts kit and the adjuster kit i would have been money to the good to run up and get a use rear end with brakes on it. But once you get started it's hard to back up..
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  #29  
Old Yesterday, 01:46 PM
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final got brakes on the pinner. all 4 wheels will now lock up is you stomp on the peddle and the rears lock up with the e brake. don't know how long it's been since they have done that but they work now. i fill the rear end with grease before we move it back out. and get the 96 back inside. tightening all the bolts back up on the heavy Iron was not fun either. I had to brake out the big metric set to get that mount for the cross bar. . hint if your dealing with rusty stuff and the standard set will not stay on try the metric
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  #30  
Old Yesterday, 05:56 PM
Paul Steinberg Paul Steinberg is offline
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While you are under there, you might want to add new bushings to the panhard bar. Just be careful not to damage the bolt, since the steel sleeve in the old bushing has a habit of rusting itself to the bolt, and the bolt isn't available. Also, if you want it to ride correctly you should change all the bushings on the rear trailing arms. The panhard bar allows the rear to move right and left as the car goes down the road with the up and down movement of the car. You really should get the 1961 Chevrolet service manual along with the 1964 Supplement.
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