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  #111  
Old 03-14-2018, 07:33 PM
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Yes, there is a Shell in Owasso with 0 ethanol 91 octane. I cant get 93 though
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  #112  
Old 03-15-2018, 01:59 PM
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Its a good possibility that a previous owner installed one of the $12 universal ignition switches. Someone else suggested I use a cheap one to test and linked this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-1968-C...UAAOSw0UdXqecP

This looks EXACTLY like what I have now, which may be a big part of the issue if this is cheap switch cant handle what going through it. Mine even has that tiny little lockbox looking key with it.
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  #113  
Old 03-15-2018, 10:25 PM
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that switch is fully capable of handling the load . but you can't have it as yours has a GM key. or at least you showed us what you said was your switch key and it was a GM key.
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  #114  
Old 03-16-2018, 10:17 AM
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The key I showed was my door key. Ignition key is different. This is my ignition key
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Old 03-16-2018, 11:39 AM
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Son you have the CHEAP CRAP switch. I know its the cheapie cause it has the double sided key. The better ones had a heavier single sided key. There is way to beat the too heavy load on the switch. You may have to do some rewiring and use a relay.
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Old 03-16-2018, 11:46 AM
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Since it's all ready aftermarket just get a good one and replace it. Some one as all ready done the cut and splice. I'm betting one of there crimped on conductors is lose. Solder all them and the problem goes away. That door key that was not cut for your doors was most likely not even for that car.
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  #117  
Old 03-16-2018, 12:33 PM
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Thanks, I know the OEM part number is 1116701 D-1440A

Offhand does anyone know of any particular aftermarket switch that will swap cleanly without having to make further modifications. I would like to find something that I can install without risk of screwing it up more.

No problem if no one knows offhand. I will do some research, but if you happen to know of one it would be appreciated. Only thing I've seen so far is the $465 NOS Delco switch
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  #118  
Old 03-16-2018, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John ED Renstrom View Post
Some one as all ready done the cut and splice.
I see what your saying. I may just have to pull it out, take some pics and compare them on the internet.
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  #119  
Old 03-16-2018, 07:17 PM
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Right now it would be foolish to even try to go back to the original switch. The best bet for a good aftermarket is find one made in the USA with a brand name. Replacing should be easy except for the tight quaters you have to work in. I am with Ed if you can solder (rosen core not acid core) the terminal end where the wire goes into the end that will ensure a good connection to the terminal. If you can buy or borrow an old Weller 250 watt soldering gun thats what to use . If you can't find one I'll loan you one of mine.
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  #120  
Old 03-16-2018, 10:20 PM
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most defiantly your in to a look see before you can decide what direction to go. there is no way to say what someone else did with out a eye ball on it. but here is a good aftermarket switch you can have it as soon as it put the original one back on
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