Hearse Brake mystery solved

If it has been like this since you got it, someone else must have put the wrong parts on somewhere. I have never heard of anything having the troubles this does. I would rebuild the whole system., wheel cylinders, master cylinder, powerbooster, return springs everything. At least try blowing out the lines, maybe something is plugged. You should be able to come to a complete stop fast with front disk brakes only. Even with front drums and the back lines pinched off it still should stop. I have the original drum brakes with single master on my 49 S&S and can easily lock the wheels up. Sounds like you have a lot more going on than just the rear cylinders.
It could even be the wrong rod that is in the master cylinder. I think Paul had that trouble on his Pinner.
 
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The problem in my Pinner, was that it had the wrong brake booster, and the shoes installed improperly. I replaced all the wheel cylinders, and brake linings, and rebuilt the master cylinder. Only then did I find that the brake booster was incorrect. Luckily for me, the parts that were removed were stored in the under floor compartment, and when I compared the old with the replacement the difference was obvious. Checking with the parts books, it appeared that the replacement booster was interchangeable with the old booster, however, the push rod furnished with the replacement was of the wrong length, which I learned by comparing the two. I reinstalled the original booster, and the brakes work properly, but the original booster had a rip in the rubber bladder. I had the original booster rebuilt, and no more problems.
When a problem arises, you have to attack the problem in a methodical way, picking a starting point, and working forward to the end of the system. Sometimes this means replacing everything with correct parts, since you have no idea what was done previous to your ownership. I can honestly say that every one of my cars had problems in one or more systems because of the people that worked on it previously, didn't understand how the systems worked. You can't repair anything until you learn how it functions originally from the factory, and can identify that which has been changed from the original. The most difficult part is that some rely on aftermarket parts reference material that might not be correct. This was the problem with the brake booster in my Pinner. The A-1 Cardone parts book shows the part as a direct replacement, however, it is wrong. I would bet that had I had a A-1 parts book from the mid 1960's, there would be a note indicating that the push rod needed to be changed from the old to the replacement, however, that information was lost in subsequent printings. Even the General Motors parts books tend to "homogenize" part listings as time goes on. A book printed in 1969 will show a separate part number for the 1967 cars vs. the 1968 cars. By 1975, it will only show one part number fitting both, even though in actuality, the part will not work properly on one of the given applications. The most accurate information is always in the parts book that was the last issued for the year of manufacture of the vehicle, such as that which is issued in October of the year of manufacture.
 
I am not sure if the wrong rod may have been in the old master cylinder however now the master cylinder and booster are not stock as a front disc brake conversion has been done.

Front brakes seem to work fine and if you put it to the floor they will lock up.
Can't get much better than that.

Problem is and has always been as long as I have had the Hearse in the rear brakes. Rear shoes don't seem to make contact with the drums unless the emergency brake is on slightly when braking.

Wish I could find a 62 rear end in a junk yard. I would buy it and ship it here.

Ricky
 
If the rear brakes are adjusted properly, that will accomplish the same thing as having the parking brake partially engaged. I would like to see a picture of the rear brakes, and possibly I might be able to tell if something is set up wrong.
 
John, I thought I was a site supporter. I pay yearly and get the magazine. Unless I'm past due in paying this year?

I would like to send some picture if I get time to get out to my mechanics shop
other side of the island this week with work and such.

Rear brakes have been adjusted by couple different shops over the years. Not this shop that I have it at now though. Adjusted to the point the rear wheels hard to turn when jacked up in nuetral.


Will try to get pics early next week. Still waiting for him to work on my Hearse.


Thanks
RIcky
 
John, I thought I was a site supporter. I pay yearly and get the magazine. Unless I'm past due in paying this year?

RIcky

Being a PCS member does not mean you get site supporter status. This site is independent from the PCS, that's why its the Friends of the Professional Car Society. You have to pay this site to get supporter status, and will gain you access to many more forums.
 
Becoming a site supporter won't reveal any new forums over being a PCS member, just the ability to attach pics.

My bad. I always thought you had more access, that is why it was recommended (and to support the site). So if Im a PCS member I get access to all the forums without paying, that's nice to know.
 
Finally stop on all fours

Looks like I finally found a good mechanic. Hard to find shops that are willing to work on old cars here in Hawaii.

This my third shop the mechanic works on old cars and has good reputation.

Well he found the problem. He said the springs and round hold downs that go on the springs were backwards in other wards the front one on the rear and the rear one on front. I am referring to inside the rear brake drum.

He said this caused the auto brake adjuster wheel to never turn. Thus the brakes would never self adjust. After all this wish it was more exciting to tell you all. Thank you for all your input and help.
Aloha for now.
Ricky Jones
 
been there done that. I had over 700 bucks in a AC unit before I found a man that understood that the high head pressure was caused by a plugged muffler. then he would only recharge it if I did the conversion to 134.
 
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