Shipping a hood lip

So I have the opportunity to buy a hood lip moulding from a parts car in Florida. How do you recommend shipping this? Seller is asking but I honestly have never had anything like this shipped.

Any suggestions are appreciated
 
If it's not cracked now, it will be when you get it. Wait for one where you can grab & go. They do exist in your part of the world in good condition also.
 
If it's not cracked now, it will be when you get it. Wait for one where you can grab & go. They do exist in your part of the world in good condition also.

Yeah I was trying to wrap my head around how to protect and support it, because of the curves the 68 has its hard to imagine it being properly supported in any position. I've called alot of yards around here and none of them have had anything. I know with patience I will find one someday, I just hate looking at this broken molding.
 
pretty simple to wrap it in bubble wrap stuff it in to a 3 or 4 in PVC pipe and send it to you. the pipe and end caps will run you another 30 bucks or so but you get it safe. there are a number of heavy walled cardboard packing tubes also. I have received then both ways. the man that sent me the quarter molding for the 53 put them in a box. the post office is your best rout to ship. unless they have a businesses discount.
 
pretty simple to wrap it in bubble wrap stuff it in to a 3 or 4 in PVC pipe and send it to you. the pipe and end caps will run you another 30 bucks or so but you get it safe. there are a number of heavy walled cardboard packing tubes also. I have received then both ways. the man that sent me the quarter molding for the 53 put them in a box. the post office is your best rout to ship. unless they have a businesses discount.

Big difference between a straight quarter molding and this hood lip molding. 4" PVC is great for shipping, but I don't think this thing will go in it.

FedEx does a great job with their advertising, but not such a good job with the people that they hire to staff their retail packing/shipping centers! I have never seen such a bunch of dumb-@$$e$ in my life as those that work at they largest FedEx Pack-N-Ship in Omaha!
 
See part about box. The other way is to sandwich it between a couple pieces of 2 in Styrofoam. Then build a box around it. But first things first. I notice in the pictures that the hook is low on the passengers side. You need to get the rubber stops adjusted and the hood setting square before you put that molding on. The reasion they are broken in the middle is pot meedal doesn't flex.
 
Keep in mind the fact that Blake is not building the box and assembling the packing material. That will be done by some knuckle-head pee-on at a salvage yard.
 
Had one of those ship me a 50 Buick top grill bar. BIG BOX lots of bubble wrap, it arrived in two pieces. Just like this molding it should have been secured to a piece of wood. this old die cast gets brittle with age and it takes little to break it. Oh and they did apologize and refund but that didn't get the Buick a good look. One other way to ship this type of molding is watch the trash at the big box stores get the large blocks of styrofoam used on fragile big products. Cut the foam out to have a proper outline of the diecast put the item in build another hollowed out lid and tape tight this works. I shipped a 48 Henney rear door glass this way to Texas all went well.
 
Again, this is what WE would do to get it somewhere safely. Try explaining that to the 20 year old kid working at the salvage yard 800 miles away.
 
Or his superviser could show him. To this day i still feel the rock in my pocket. It was put there so I could till my right from the cars left. Way back in my DECKA days.
 
This is not being sold by a salvage yard but by an individual. He purchased a parts car for a few parts he needed and is parting it out himself. He is going to get me better pictures of condition this week.

I just threw away a perfect tube just the other day too. I suppose I could measure and try to locally find an approriate tube, and fit my own moulding into it for fitting, then ship that to him with all my desired packing materials.

Still waiting for him to get back to me though, just info-gathering in advance. We havent even decided on price yet though. He asked me to make a fair offer but I needed to see better pictures and know the coniditon before I could make an offer
 
You got to love the fair offer part. Is a grand a fair offer for you. The local u pull it yard figures 40 for a long molding 20 for a short one. The man up the street will give you one off a old car or sell it for a buck. Go to the next one you may pay out the noise big time for one. .
But pay the fair price add shipping, then when that piece that looked good in the pictures gets home so you get a good look and feel for it. Sometimes you win some times you lose. But like i said get the stops on your hood adjusted correctly before you put it on. Or it will snap when you close the hoo
 
You got to love the fair offer part. Is a grand a fair offer for you. The local u pull it yard figures 40 for a long molding 20 for a short one. The man up the street will give you one off a old car or sell it for a buck. Go to the next one you may pay out the noise big time for one. .
But pay the fair price add shipping, then when that piece that looked good in the pictures gets home so you get a good look and feel for it. Sometimes you win some times you lose. But like i said get the stops on your hood adjusted correctly before you put it on. Or it will snap when you close the hoo

Yeah, fair for who?
 
Consider what it will cost to have your original one repaired / welded, and the cost of re-chroming will be approximately $400, plus shipping both ways (Qual Krom Eire PA). If you can get a solid pit free part for less, including shipping, you are way ahead of the game. In a salvage yard, I would expect to pay $40 - $50 for the part, if they don't know the rarity of the part, and more likely $125 - $175, if they do know the rarity of the part. Also, keep in mind, that the part doesn't crack all at once, but slowly over time. I have what looks like a perfect 1970 front hood lip molding that on the outside looks perfect, but on the backside, you can see a slight crack forming. Who knows how long it will be before that slight crack will separate into two pieces? It might never get any worse than it is, or it might break in two the day after you install it. The main reason that they crack, is because people lift the hood from the center, which stresses the molding, causing it to crack. Whenever I open my hood, I lift from one end, to minimize stress on the molding. If you were to examine other 1968 Cadillac's with cracked hood moldings, you will find that just about every other one has the identical crack in the identical location plus or minus 1/4".
From an eBay listing......

THESE UNITS ARE USUALLY ALWAYS BROKEN AND/OR SNAPPED AT THE INTERSECTION OF THE "V" AND THE STRAIGHT LEG OR SNAPPED IN HALF AT THE CENTER OF THE "V" OR WARPED

THESE UNITS ARE VERY HARD TO FIND IN ANY CONDITION AND EVEN WHEN THE PART IS LOCATED THEY ARE TYPICALLY CRACKED - SNAPPED - PITTED.
 
I do know of one of these that is not cracked. Unfortunately, it was later in the afternoon the last time I stopped by. The last owner of the car had the hood chained down and the chain was bolted together underneath the bumper. The car had been there long enough that it had settled almost to the bumper. I gave up as I needed to get out of there as they were closing. I am sure that $20 would have owned that one.
 
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