Any tips on chrome trim removal?

Bill Leverett

PCS Member/Super Site Supporter/Paramedic Supervis
I'm working on my 1953 Pontiac/Barnette (Chieftan) and would like to remove the stainless trim to do some body work and prep before painting. Any tips on how to do this safely so I don't bend the trim? The front clip pieces were easy as the trim clips had rusted out and snapped off. The rest of the trim is quite solidly attached. Do I need a special tool to get to the clips?:confused:

Any guideance would be appreciated.

Thanks

Bill
 
Most of the old time stainless was held on with clips that had screw studs and nuts holding them to the body sheet metal. Best to unbolt whenever possible, and buy new clips. If you damage a piece of stainless, it is repairable and will look like new. There are some pieces that are snap on over the clips, and the only way to get them off is to pry them off. Just go slow and use something that is firm, but not with a sharp edge. Try looking behind the molding by prying it slightly with a piece of flat plastic, like a kitchen spatula. Mark where each clip is and work right next to the clip. A plastic wedge of some sort is the best tool for this. Make sure to mark where each piece goes and take lots of pictures. Many times a piece will be identical on the opposite side, except that it will have drain reliefs cut into it on the bottom. If the piece is made of die cast, then be very careful not to break it. They cannot be repaired. Also look out for hidden clips that require something else to be removed first. This is the type of job that experience is best, and you will only gain this experience by doing it.
 
with out a picture it is even more guess work. but most of the 50s stuff was all attached from the back side. they used a lot of t bolt type studs that were held on to the molding with a spring wire then the stud went threw a hole in the body. some slid into the molding threw a slot cut into it. some were a snap in the hole kind of clip. as Paul said start on one end, look on the back side first. some only have a stud on the ends. most door molding were put on this way. some of the quarter stuff had on one either end to. then the center was a snap in. until you get one apart you really don't know. then there was the repair that the body shop did something way different to hold it in place. look at the back side first then start on one end and work you way up. don't force any thing. if it cast it's held on from the back. if not you can see the screws in the front. save everything you take off not matter what the condition of it is. you will be surprised when you go to putting it back together what you will need if only to compare it to something else. I don't know of anything that was put on a pon that normal hand tools won't take off
 
Thanks Paul, John and Daniel (I'll use that suggestion for some other repairs).

I have one of the door panels off and can't really see all of the attachment points. I'll post some pictures to see if that helps with suggestions.

John, from a repainting point of view, should I leave the trim on or take it off?

Bill
 
Paint

John, from a repainting point of view, should I leave the trim on or take it off?

Take as much off as you can, you will be much happier with the result.When we painted the 72 we took off everything except the trim that separate,s the roof from the 1/4 panels it was all straight trim and was easy to mask.

John this a good pic of that trim that will be there soon.
 

Attachments

  • 364363143.jpg
    364363143.jpg
    47.9 KB · Views: 3,072
Last edited:
I thank you for that to,Dan. yes what ever you can get off do so. follow the trim to the end then look for a small nut or screw buried in the weatherstrip. there should be one on either end on the door. the center may be popped on. but the ends will at least have some threw fastener on them. I have see were one end did not usually the back. but never both. now watch you be the one. if you can't feel any thing inside the go to the end and slide a flat screwdriver, putty knife, flat bar what ever under the molding. use a twist not a pry and you can move it enough to see what is holding it in place. I have seen were everything is covered in a thick layer of undercoating also. so you might scrape around were you know the molding is on any high lump. I have never see a fender molding that was not bolted threw. all the script will be a nut on the back side maybe. some of them were done with barrel nuts. a lot of times if they are in a place were you would have to take a lot of stuff off the inside or in a double panel. so if you can't find a way to get to the back side they try the paddy knife. the key is still don't force anything. it should come off easy or at least start easy. the twist motion will get you more then prying. if it comes up some you can always use a bigger screw driver to get more leverage. remember they put it on after they painted the car but before the interior went in. the front fenders trim was put on the then assembled. they then the assembly was put on the car as a unit. things like weather striping was put on last. so some things are under some other things. but all the rust comes out from under the moldings. as does the dirt. so take off what you can. Dan here is my guess as to were the two tone went on the 73. we'll see how close I was when the trim gets here.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5252.JPG
    IMG_5252.JPG
    69.7 KB · Views: 3,050
Success!

With all of your help and tips I was able to locate where the bolts for the trim came through the doors and inside the door panel. Access doors were covered up with soundproofing material (thick, waxy, oily cardboard like material). The trim just below the windows snapped off easily with a larger screwdriver and some twisting as Ed suggested.

Amazing, but it's alot easier to see how it went on when it's off...duh. Some of the fasteners were rusted though and snapped off when I worked on them even after a good soaking of the nuts with Liquid Wrench. California Pontiac Restorations has a wide variey of trim clips in their catalog so I'm hoping to find something that'll work as replacements.

Thanks for the assistance everyone!

Bill
 
these people do to. glad you got it apart. the first tool out of the box has to be courage.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4334.JPG
    IMG_4334.JPG
    90.5 KB · Views: 3,040
Back
Top