Warm up transmission

[Blake Sherwin]

Maybe its just that I'm paranoid and dont have enough experience driving old cars, but after warming the engine up for 15-20 minutes I notice that it usually starts out really hard to get past 20 mph until I've driven it around the neighborhood a bit and "warmed up" the transmission.

Until I slowly cruise around a bit, it seems giving it too much throttle results in what I can only describe as it trying to choke out. It doesnt sound like its going to stall but the engine stops trying to turn and acts like its stuck. Until I back off the gas and push it again, then it will usually start moving. Once ive got things moving for a decent amount of time though it runs like a champ.

Originally I chalked it up to the engine still being too cold, but now that I think of it, it makes more sense that the trans isnt being warmed up until it moves.

Is this just normal for old cars or should I be concerned about my transmission?

Alot of this is new to me but im trying to learn.

[Rick Franklin]

check your fluid level

[Blake Sherwin]

Originally Posted by Rick Franklin

check your fluid level

Checked that over the weekend and it was full. Had all the trans leaks fixed a few weeks ago. All fluids are surprisingly up to the full level

[Peter Grave]

Chances are the choke (on carbuator) is stuck or not opening at the right rate. This will cause a bog Trans sounds fine You do not have to "warm" them up. PM your phone number I talk better than type. Had many 60s Cadillacs in the day bought a new one every year from 62 to 71.

[Paul Steinberg]

Couple things to check.
1. Make sure that the choke is working properly.
2. Transmission linkage and the switch on the carburetor is properly plugged into the wire harness.
4. Transmission linkage is not out of adjustment.
5. Did they check to see if the transmission vacuum modulator is not leaking, and that the rubber vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the vacuum modulator has been replaced. There are two 6" approx. rubber hoses that connect the vacuum modulator. One at the modulator itself, and the other at the end of the metal line that goes to the transmission, and joins at the carburetor or intake manifold. Vacuum leaks can cause you a lot of grief, but are relatively easy and inexpensive to repair.
6. Engine timing must be set exactly as it is explained in the FSM (factory shop manual). There are exact instructions on what vacuum lines need to be unplugged, and capped so they don't leak vacuum. If the instructions aren't followed exactly, the timing will not be set where it should be. Vacuum effects a lot of things on a car, and sometimes it is difficult to diagnose.

[John ED Renstrom]

jump in start the car as soon as it fires and is running drop it in gear and go. idling the car is very hard on it and not a good practice. you are problem just loading it up with raw gas. the transmission after 20 minuets of idling will be at normal operation temp.not necessary at all. now at 0 out they will be a little stiff
if they are sitting out side but it only takes a mile of two to have them warmed up. just take it easy off the start and go.

[Danny Ryder]

Sounds more like a choke issue or even choke pull off not working.