59-64 Windshield gasket replacement help

I have to replace the windshield in my 64 Superior combo. Bought it from Pilkington, $950, ouch. I am ready BUT I don't know if they can remove the current gasket, which is in great shape, without tearing it apart. Rubber the Right Way thinks a 59-64 75 Series Limo gasket would work. Like EVERYTHING else about our pro-cars, I'm skeptical about what people suggest. I try to explain, over and over, about how our cars are assembled and who provided what. The drawing they sent doesn't look like to me that it is tall enough. I tried measuring, but that didn't work out well for me. A local old timer glass guy suggested a universal gasket that you get by the foot, or possibly purchasing 2 gaskets for a 75 series limo. He owns, now get this, 35 hearses and flower cars from the early years. He has them stored 20 minutes from here and said I could go look at them if that would help. I just want to look at them, who cares if it helps. Anyway, he also suggested to heavily douse the gasket currently in the hearse with W-D40 as a possiblity that it could come out in one piece. Before I go buy something, I was hoping some of you might have a solution. Fire away ya'll and I appreciate any advice.

Nice to know that windshield's price is dropping.

As a '59-'65 limo uses the same '59-'64 commercial windshield, I don't see why limo molding wouldn't work. Same height. There should be no need to splice two.

Mick is a great guy. Go see his (and his father you eluded to) coaches.

Thanks for info.... Mick busy so hard to schedule a time.... Have you seen them?

My experience...

I replaced my windshield a few years ago using a gasket from steel rubber products which worked fine. It is in fact the same windshield and gasket used on the series 75 limousine and series 75 sedan. And trust we when I tell you..........$950.00 is way less than we used to have to pay. Good luck with it. Can't wait to see it in person.

the wd40 trick has worked for me. I use it when ever I try to take out a rubber. work it in between the steel and the rubber and the glass and the rubber on both sides before you attempt to remove it will normally keep the rubber intake. is seams to penetrate the rubber and replace the loss oils. it also will soften up the old sealer and let it release easier. I will say the last time I got some stuff from Rubber the right way it was with there label over the top of the steel rubber label. i figured i got taped for a double mark up so checked the steel rubber web side and found I got it cheaper from rubber the right way then I could from steel rubber. if my memory serves me correct was this 59 to 64 the first use of the commercial windshield? you say the fleet wood 75 used the same glass. that's good to know. how about the later years of 75s. do they use the standard glass or the taller glass.

I called Pilkington a month or so ago and was quoted about 100.00 more than you got it for.

Did you have to pay additional money for crating or shipping ?

Let me know.

Thanks,
Darren

Doug,
I know who this guy is that lives in Wichita. He and his son does own about that many Funeral Cars. He has a Cad Flower Car sitting in his driveway, and has been there for years, but won't sell it. It was very nice when parked there, but is deteriorating in the elements. Good luck getting him to show you his cars, no luck here. None for sale.........
Thanks,
Mike

John ED Renstrom said:

how about the later years of 75s. do they use the standard glass or the taller glass.

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My '68 Fleetwood 75 uses a standard glass. Lucky for me, it was replaced a few years ago--if I had the receipt I would let you know how much, but it was befoe I got the car.

Mike Burkhart said:

Doug,
I know who this guy is that lives in Wichita. He and his son does own about that many Funeral Cars. He has a Cad Flower Car sitting in his driveway, and has been there for years, but won't sell it. It was very nice when parked there, but is deteriorating in the elements. Good luck getting him to show you his cars, no luck here. None for sale.........
Thanks,
Mike

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I really hate people like that! I remember once looking at a car in someones yard, I went to talk to the guy "its not for sale, I'm going to fix it up some day" yea right, he had to be in his 90s, and so crippled he could hardly move. A couple years later I saw it in the local junkyard.

Thanks for all the advice. I ordered from Steele rubber the 75 Series and for good measure, an extra foot of the upper and lower piece just in case. $120.00, but i am oiling the heck out of the current gasket hoping I can save it because it really is in good shape. can return it if my old one works. I got my receipt and I did pay extra for crating and shipping for a total of $1050.

better safe then sorry. but if it is the same one just use the new one. you'll never regret it. they were a pain to get in and out on that style and tended to leak. everyone used about twice as much sealer when they put them in. as you have to take about half the interior out to get at the molding nuts. now then if you can, when they have the glass out sand and re prime the pinch weld. if you can't get automotive paint use a rustoleum primer and top coat it with a close color you want to use to paint the car. trust me on this one it will do more for your restoration to get the rust cleaned up there then anything else. yes there is a set of nuts that hold the cowl vent on, under the top edge of the fender. at least on this 63 there were.

I had nothing but problems with the windshield and back glass gaskets that I bought from Steele Rubber. If you can use the original gasket, I would use in preference to the replacement. Since the windshield is set in rubber, taking it out and putting it back in isn't that difficult for an experienced glass installer. Just don't let them put in any sealer that hardens. If you use a hardening sealant, then you will never be able to get the new glass out without damage in the future.

Darren Bedford said:

I called Pilkington a month or so ago and was quoted about 100.00 more than you got it for.

Did you have to pay additional money for crating or shipping ?

Let me know.

Thanks,
Darren

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I checked my invoice and I paid an additional $110 crating/shipping.