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  #11  
Old 03-30-2018, 12:16 PM
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The AC one has a return line on it. The none AC cars did not.i had even a worse case when i was looking or one there were none available at all. So i blew the filter element out with air and added that in line one as my only option at the time.
If it was me i would bite that one, replace it with the new one and still add the inline to protect and give me a inexpensive way to change the filter.
That way the system is not adulterer and you would most likely never have to chang it again.
I see, so you are saying replace the original one and then add another more modern, readily available filter down the line, before this filter. Once I get the original one replaced I may look into this. I suppose on the 2nd, preceding inline filter I do not need to have the 3rd vapor return and can run a normal straight through filter?
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Old 03-30-2018, 12:44 PM
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I see, so you are saying replace the original one and then add another more modern, readily available filter down the line, before this filter. Once I get the original one replaced I may look into this. I suppose on the 2nd, preceding inline filter I do not need to have the 3rd vapor return and can run a normal straight through filter?
true as with the none ac car it just a inline one. one can place it on the rubber jumper either at the rear by the tank or as I did this one up front. the Ida being to replace the plugged origin and then protect it from getting plugged again. now if you were to replace the gas tank and reset the clock on it rusting that might be a moot point. but at 60 bucks for a new one and 2 bucks to protect it to me it's cheap insurance. if some day you want to try the 100 point club with the car replacing the line you spliced is cheap enough. the key in maintain the car is to make as few changes as possible while still staying in your budget.

it's not like the rest of us have not gotten trapped in the rebuilt carb problem and a shop that just wants it out the door any way they can. some times you have to spend money to save money.
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Old 03-30-2018, 12:58 PM
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There is no way that I would pay $60 for one. Every major filter manufacturer sold the same fuel filter. It's just a matter of crossing the filter number using old filter catalogs. No big deal, but you will not cross it through a current filter catalog or on their computers. If you expect to walk into NAPA and have them find it/cross it, you are wasting your time. There are scads of NOS fuel filters still floating around out there.
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Old 03-30-2018, 01:23 PM
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I agree with spending to save. I have one other question and it really just a curious question. If my A/C is currently non-functional is it safe to run a fuel filter without the return line and just plug the end of the return line?

And if so, why cant I just use something like a Duralast Universal fuel filter (at least for the short term)?

Keep in mind I am not asking because I want to do this or doubting advice, but I just want to better understand the whys behind the fuel filter.

Since it doesnt hurt to ask I did go to Autozone and talked to a guy there and asked him "im pretty sure the answer is no, but is there anything of a similar construction that I can use in place of this filter?" He pointed out this Duralast Universal FF3-8DL (pic attached). I asked him about the missing 3rd line, he said thats a fuel return line and that not using that line wont cause a problem.

Now im inclined to NOT believe this guy so thats what made me think what exactly would happen if the return line wasnt used. I'm not using this filter, but im curious for the exact reasons why we shouldnt use this
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Old 03-30-2018, 09:50 PM
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all I can say is 68 is the only year that that filter was used. it was only used on the air conditioned cars. it has the fittings top and bottom. why the return line on the AC car and not the none AC you will have to ask GM. but by 69 they felt is was not a good idea as they moved the return line in a different location. it may have been due to the idle pop up when the AC is on and with out it the car would load up at idle. I do now this was the year that the tank changes as the return port was added to the standard 58 tank. with a non AC car it is plugged.

you could do as I did and shove a wire up the bottom and blow out the paper from the top. then put the aftermarket filter on. me I just figured as long as the return line was there it might as will work.
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Old 03-30-2018, 10:46 PM
Walter Suiter Walter Suiter is online now
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Originally Posted by Kurt Arends View Post
You will notice that there are a quantity of "0" in-stock on their site.
HEY, you didn't say you wanted stock.

You want stock, Fleetfilter.com. I highly recommend them for all filter needs.
Make your list, order and save 50% over local NAPA (NoAutoPartsAviailable) last column price.

Check these 33040 & 33041
https://www.fleetfilter.com/filters/..._By=disp_order

You don't like them there are many more pages.
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Old 03-30-2018, 11:08 PM
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My memory is that the only reason the return line set up was added in the first place was to prevent Vapor Lock. This was due to the fact with the coming of AC underhood temps were much higher and Vapor Lock was becoming an issue. The return line prevents it by keeping the gas moving and keeping the heat of the gas down. Back in the mid 50s we used to race a stick Olds 88 at the drags in Allentown Pa.. The line to the starting line was usually about 7 or 8 cars long thus idling in line things got warm/hot you looked awful stupid when the starter waved the green flag (no lights then) and you bogged and putted away from the start cause it got hot and Vapor Locked. The solution,we made a sort of canvas bag around the fuel pump open at the top. Just as we were called to go to start line we filled the bag with ice cubes from the beer cooler other than a few cubes bouncing away from the starting line it worked great NO Vapor Lock. The return line idea never occured to us kids.
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  #18  
Old 03-31-2018, 12:53 PM
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of course that was why all the added cloths pins on this car. to help prevent that. it's two bad they put then on the vacuum lines not the fuel line. i can't find a pictures of the filter in my collection. I wasn't a good about that on my own cars.
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Old 03-31-2018, 02:26 PM
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Well heres what mine looked like
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Old 03-31-2018, 03:52 PM
Paul Steinberg Paul Steinberg is offline
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Looks like a fuel filter. Do as Ed suggested, and using a coat hanger, rip the paper out of it, so it is just an empty canister. Then install another filter in the rubber line coming from the fuel tank. You can continue to , or you can do what has been suggested. Both Ed and I have given you good solutions, and his is the least expensive. That filter is clogged, and you have nothing to loose, except for some time under the hood. I doubt that it will help your carburetor problem, however, it will go a long way once you start working on the issues. It is just one of the many things that you will need to addressed to making this car reliable again.
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