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  #141  
Old 03-25-2018, 01:36 AM
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This is a remanned one they installed. I still have the original in a box. Took it out today to compare to the new one. It looks like they used the old vacuum break and everything attached to it. Since the old carb is all brown, except for that left side everything looks brand new, so the swapped those for some reason
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  #142  
Old 03-25-2018, 01:39 AM
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Heres the old one, with the new part...so my new one has the old part for some reason..
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  #143  
Old 03-25-2018, 02:10 AM
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Also its worth noting this as well. I noticed that my "New" carb I can push the secondaries fully open with my finger, and theres no stop. On the old carb though if I push down on the secondary plates the only open a little. Which after watching a few theory videos on how quadrajets work it was saying that they should NOT open all the way when pushed on.

Today I removed the T from the vacuum finally and attached the straight thru hose from the old carb since it was already the right length. I am going to oreillys tomorrow morning to grab a coupler to join the other two hoses that were connected to the T. I had put 2 drops of motor oil down the accelerator pump shaft with no positive results (actually seemed to drive a little worse). I feel like a big part of my problem may be that while driving maybe those secondaries are swinging open and giving too much air, and if so it may be possible there is a catch or guard missing from the left side where they used the old parts.

The videos I watched on the quads, the guy said alot of backyard tuners will see that the secondary doesnt open all the way and decide its a "good idea" to modify it and remove a guard so they can fly fully open and that this causes bog. I am wondering if the guy who installed this may have been one such tuner, because he was the only guy there who supposedly knew about carbs, basically because he did dirt track racing. I wont even both calling that shop anymore no matter what.

Would premature opening of the secondaries cause the bog issues I am having? I am also very puzzled why they used the old parts on the left side. Only reason I can see is that the new one has the vacuum spout coming out the front, while the old one (on my new carb) has the vacuum spout coming out of the side, towards the carb. Its pretty tight with the fuel line so maybe thats the reason, I dont know.
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  #144  
Old 03-25-2018, 12:05 PM
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So how many times do you have to be told that the rebuilt is not the correct carburetor for your car before it sinks in? We need to establish this fact before we can go any farther in assisting you.

Now once again i will say if I was attempting to find out why this car did not run. I would remove that rebuilt put the original back one making sure that i had the correct gaskets and heat plate installed correctly.
Rout the vacuum lines correctly to factory placement.
Make sure there was not an obstruction in the fuel line.

Once the fuel is delivered correctly, then i would inspect all electrical connections. Repair any bad connections And hook back up any that are off. Set all factory settings of timing and dwell. Making sure that all the components in the electrical were in good shape.

You do that in a one thing at a time walk threw fix each thing right before you move to the next you will end up with a decent running car.

But if after you have done this you still find that your original cab is faulty. Remove it, have it rebuilt at a place that knows what they are doing. This will give you a car that runs as well as it did when it was new.

But if your having fun chasing your tail,dabbling here and there go right one. After all the hobby is about having fun and get enjoyment out of the old car. We each do it in our own way.
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  #145  
Old 03-27-2018, 11:20 AM
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So how did you make out? The reasion they had to swap the choke control was that 68 and 69 were the only years that a divorced choke was used. So to make the newer bowl function with the car set up they swapped the necessary parts for the out side From the original be sure you don't loose them if you send to original on in they are vary hard to come by.
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  #146  
Old 03-27-2018, 12:21 PM
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I had checked the ID numbers on the carbs. New carb is 7028237, old carb is 7028231. From what I understand any odd number at the end just means its made for a manual, but im told there were exceptions for this.

So its for 1968, federal standards, theres no specification listed for the 3 though.

http://www.carburetion.com/quadnumber.htm

No change since my last post. I want to throw the old one back on but I dont currently have the means to remove that fuel line. I need to build up my tool collection before I am capable of doing alot of stuff myself.

A friend has offered to let me use his lift at his house some weekend so we can drop the gas tank, because I really want to get it cleaned out. The tiny fuel sample I siphoned recently had several floaters in it. And if that small amount had that much debris you can guarantee theres alot more, and probably bigger pieces.

Since I dont see any fuel stream when idling and looking down the carb while pulling the throttle I'm probably still having fuel obstruction issues. I know the ultimate solution at least to the fuel obstruction will be to clean/reseal the tank, but next I plan to put more seafoam in, and put some fuel on top of that, see if it will at least clear some of the obstruction temporarily so i can move it around easier. Of course I am also aware I could make the obstruction worse too.

So my top priorities now are:

- Rebuild carb
- Drop tank
- Check filters
- Blow out fuel lines

My primary obstacles are money, time and the fact that every time I look under the hood I dont know where to find anything, or what anything is (but im slowly learning what a few things are)

I will let you know once I am able to get some of these things done.
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Old 03-27-2018, 11:02 PM
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change that fuel filter will help. as it is most likely plugged then if you want add a inline on in the rubber jumper from the frame to it. that will be a lot cheaper then replacing the original one if there are things in the tank. here is were I added one to my 68
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  #148  
Old 03-28-2018, 01:17 PM
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I still need to confirm if there is an inline currently or not. I was having trouble following the fuel line and generally locating things. I dont have a means to lift the car at the moment.

I know there have been alot of suggestions and I have not been ignoring them, alot of this is either out of my skill level, I lack tools, or I simply feel I may screw something up with my clumsiness.

I have a checklist I've compiled from the helpful suggestions here. Once I can borrow my friend's garage I'm going to try to actually do some of the items I have been having issues completing.

Once I do get this done I will be sure to post exactly what the culprit was
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  #149  
Old 03-28-2018, 10:14 PM
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It should have a canister in line on the front of the engine. It. Would be behind the power steering pump. The add on one i pictured is right below it. It is not a easy one to change. But since you have found a replacement on i would do it when you do the tank
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  #150  
Old 04-01-2018, 11:19 PM
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I appreciate everyones patience with my amateur skills. It takes quite a load off now knowing i have found the cause of the bogging problem (fuel filter).

I know im far from done, but i think i can let this thread die now that these symptoms have been remedied.

And to think the fix cost me all of $6. Well 6 at the moment, my next plan is to make things right with the return line, and get that carb sorted


Thanks again
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