Twin 184H Installation

James Fischer

PCS Member
I am going to be removing the Dietz 211 from the 72 soon and replacing it with twin 184H's.
My question is regarding wiring the "twins" correctly.
I have seen them wired separately and also on just one switch....
Any thoughts and suggestions on the proper installation and wiring of the beacons would be greatly appreciated :rolleyes:
 
On installations that I've done I always wired mine off just one switch. Most coachs with 2 Beacons I've ever seen were wired that way from the factory. I can't see any benefit in having them on seperate switches.
 
Russell,
Thank you,I thought they came from the factory with one switch but just was not sure.:thumbsup:
The 3 units I have seen with dual switches was one of the companies I worked for who was running a red and a yellow ,,I guess they wanted to have the option of just using a yellow...although whenever I drove it was just automatic to hit the 2 switches in one motion rather then just one at a time even if it was just being used as a "caution" light at a scene or sr such..;)
 
the 184 is able to be wired for 2 lights on or 4 lights on. for a numbers of reason like you just described. so it is up to you. but I would suggest that if you wiring them to have all 8 lights and both motors come on with one switch, that you use a relay to power them. those older switches are getting harder to find and just tripping a relay is a lot easer on them.
 
I have been in the fire truck business for a long time in California. To be compliant with California code, an emergency vehicle has to have, at a minimum, one solid red light facing to the front and one flashing amber light facing to the rear. It was not uncommon back in the days of incandescent lights (and their inherent high amperage draws) to have a separate switch for the rear-facing flashing amber light. It was usually labelled "Rear Warn". On a long duration call, such as a car accident, to avoid battery drain on an idling vehicle, the minimum light array was left illuminated, leaving the flashing amber on while most of the other lights were turned off. The flashing amber light was also left on when parked on a roadway shoulder to warn approaching vehicles of personnel working around the vehicle and to avoid rear end collisions. Now that we have low-draw LED lights and higher-output alternators, this is no longer a concern.

Today, many fire trucks typically have only a "Warning Lights" (front, rear and sides) switch and a "Lightbar" (roof mounted) switch, both controlled by a "Master" switch to allow rapid departure from quarters. Most times all emergency lighting switches are left in the "on" position, with the "Master" switch in the "off" position. I have thought for many years that only two switches are required- one for "Lights" and one for "Noise" (sirens, etc.).
 
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Standard installation on a Superior would've been both wired to come on together.

Be sure the 184-H skirts are trimmed to match the roof contours!
 
Wasn't there a video or a series of step by step instructions with pictures on this site about the installation of these lights? I think it was when Richard Vyse was installing them on one of his coaches and maybe Ed was helping him out.
 
relay

James, install a relay with both beacons going to the relay and it wont be to many amps on the switch load. relay is the key. also a fuse somewhere in line between the power supply and the switch. I knew you would install two beacons. will make that beautiful car even nicer. BUTT, 3 would really be nice. just saying...if you remember I love 2 or 3 beacons. can't have tooooo many lights, but maybe you can. up to you but.....since I don't have a ambulance built or have not found the right one to buy I'm living la vida loca looking at yours. k
 
4 35 watt bulbs plus the motor .x 2. If all you can find are 40 watt bulbs. I dont have the watts to amps handy. Put it's simple task to put in a relay. Let the switch trip it.
 
The correct sealed beam for a 184 is #4416, which is 30 watts. 4x30= 120 watts. Divide watts (120) by voltage (12)= 10 amps for the lamps alone. Add 3 amps minimum for the motor, and the current draw for one beacon is 13 amps. As things heat up the motor draw can increase to 5 amps, so it's good to use 15 amps per beacon as a guide. It's best to use wire that is rated at twice the load, in this case 12 gauge, to each beacon.

Don't just use any old relay, use a Cole Hersee continuous duty solenoid, either 24059 (isolated coil, requiring a separate ground lead) or 24106 (grounded coil). Use a short piece of 8 gauge wire to connect a Cole Hersee 30055-40 circuit breaker directly to the battery. Use another short piece of 8 gauge to connect the other side of the circuit breaker to the solenoid. Then run a length of 8 gauge from the solenoid, through the firewall and up into the headliner. Terminate that run into a pair of 20 amp circuit breakers. I recommend two Cole Hersee 30056-20 in a 30090-2 snap-in bracket with an 86099-2 bus bar connecting the battery studs of the two breakers. Run each 12 gauge beacon wire to its own circuit breaker. That way, they're isolated- and a short in one won't kill both. The wire from the switch to the solenoid should be 14 to 16 gauge. It's a good idea to protect that circuit with a 15 amp fuse or circuit breaker as well.
 
Couple tears ago I went from one 184 to two 184's. So grateful Ed REnstrom mounted them for me but tried wiring them on one switch. Unfortunatley it keep blowing the breaker so ended up attaching to another switch.
 

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