light socket puzzel=short?

When I put a bulb in courtesy light, it doesn't work. Test says there is power without bulb, when i put bulb in, it makes the whole fixture hot, take it out, power just at contact where it is suppose to be. It is the well courtesy light. When I test the other courtesy lights, with bulb in and working properly, the test light confirms powere only where it is suppose to be, not the whole back plate. I checked wire for exposure, everything good. I will say that before I changed switch, it worked fine. I put back in a Cole Heersey switch like factory, changed wires around. Does it matter how wires plug into switch? I tried both ways, same outcome.

You are using the wrong bulb. I will bet that you are putting in a single contact bulb into a dual contact socket, or vice versa. It is the simple things that will get you every time.

superior ran hot to the light so with the light housing on the wall and the bulb out there should be power to one of the posts. most likly the center on the bulb. if the light not attached and the bulb is in it will read hot everywhere as it's looking for a ground. there a rinky dink light but they will work. the switch is just a make or brake in line so it makes no difference what post the hot wire goes to. now if you have a short in the light the hot wire gets shorted to housing with or with out the bulb it should blow a fuse if the housing is grounded. the biggest trouble with them is the bulb not in the holder or not making contact and rust around the screw holding it on the wall so it looses ground.

got to talking with Paul about this light so I have to admit I forgot. checked it out and saw it worked just forgot how. this light that I'm thinking only superior used has the hot and ground reversed. the bulb doesn't care but it can be a touch confusing it your having trouble with it. here is what it looks like and how it works.

got the light to work. It was a bad ground - rusty screw. Imagine that. anyways.....now I can't get switch to fit into pillar, it is too deep. I checked all the switches I removed and this is the one I think that went there, but even with the spacers, it is too deep. I'm going nuts. ideas anyone? Am I missing a short, stubby switch?

if you are missing one were did you get this one. it's impossible to get a measurement on the door jam. so slide washers over the screw till the switch goes in to the pillar. then see if the door will close and work the switch. from the appearance it looks like a shorter switch then the set on this 63 here. if you can space it out enough to clear and the door will close working it. then you know how many shims you need to find. if your 63 is the same as this one here the left door doesn't have a switch on it. the one that goin in here would have a different number on it then the rest I would think.

i bought the 9270 cole heersee online, 4 of them, just in case. the left passenger door does not have a switch.

slid a piece of card board between the posts and fold them over to one side will gain you a lot. buy the time you add the connectors you a good 2 inches deep just there. maybe some one that has the same style doors can read the number off there switch. that will let you know if you have the right one.to start out with. I have one extra new switch that is a lot shallower here I got of a 55-56 Chevy. I'm fairly sure the one you need has a screw post flat on the bottom or up on the side.