Need quick advice on alternator

Since owning the Lifeliner I have NEVER had an issue with batteries or charging. I purchased two batteries from Wal*Mart just to be on the safe side for the trip to Ohio. Current batteries worked fine but, to be safe.

I purchased them on June 19th and this evening took them back to Wal*Mart for an exchange. These darn things went dead on me. I noticed the last few days how the batteries were cranking a bit harder but after running the car a few minutes, turning it off then restarting, they seemed to work fine-until tonight.

How can I make sure my alternator is working as it should? In the old days I would start the car, disconnect the battery, and if the car kept running the alternator was good. I know that doesn't work with todays cars but this is a 1973.

No, there is nothing left on.
No, I never leave the batteries on.
Yes, the belt is tight.

So what's the deal?
 
If you have a "Batteries Plus" store near you...they can do the test. I use them often. Ours is very helpful, even if you don't buy a battary.
 
If you have Auto Zone there, they test things for free.....so that if it's bad, they can sell you a new one! If it is okay, they of course don't charge you. I had the alternator rebuilt on my car while I had it off, even though they said it was working fine. I hope you figure out the problem soon, though.
 
If you go to your prefered shop, they can do a load test on the alternator and on the batteries.

Have you noticed if your headlights pulsating when you drive at night?
 
Richard, here is a quick way to check your charging system... if you have a multimeter. Don't start it, take a reading from the positive & negative posts... it should read about 12.3 volts or so with the engine OFF. Now start the engine & take the same reading between the posts... it should read between 13.8 - 14.3 volts with the engine running.
 
If the CCA's are in an acceptable range on the new batteries, and everything worked fine before you put the new batteries in, I would double check your cable connections. Can't hurt before you go replacing a bunch of other stuff. I've had more than one friend left dead in the water after they did something involving the battery on a working vehicle. Use a terminal brush, or sandpaper, and get the terminals bright and shiny. Also clean up anywhere you took apart a connection, like if you have adapters from top post to side post.

Then again, I have had more than a few Wal-Mart batteries (their price is really attractive), and I can't say I've had much luck with them holding a charge over a long period of time. In fact, if the vehicle is not a daily driver and has a WM battery in it, I pretty much just count on getting the ol' battery charger out to get it started, or leave it on a battery tender.
 
Without a meter with the engine running, hold a small pocket screw driver close to the pulley on the alternator, if it draws it in the alternator is putting out a charge. Make sure your screw driver is not magnatized first the becareful the motor is running and a loose screwdriver is a dangerous projectile for the radiator, hoses, belts and bystanders.
 
If you go to your prefered shop, they can do a load test on the alternator and on the batteries.

Have you noticed if your headlights pulsating when you drive at night?

No light issues at all.

Did you get batteries with enough cranking amps?

I got the same batteries I had before which never gave me problems.

Going for a ride with it this morning and see what happens. Sure would be a shame if it is because of the A/C and may just pull the fuse on the rear unit.

Thanks
 
I just pulled it out and with the engine running, I pulled the battery cables off and it kept running just fine. So I know it is not the alternator.

We'll see what happens today...:2gunsfiring_v1:
 
I don't care were you get your batteries they are all made in the same place anyway. but you had best charge them up first before putting them in service. trickle charger and leave it on all night to bring them up to snuff. you don't and you'll have nothing but problems with them.
 
Did you get Group 27 batteries or those puny things? Each Group 27 (large case) should be a minimum of 750 CCA. Those puny things aint worth a crap on a 472 or any big block.
 
times two is 1400 CCA they are hooked in parallel not series. fully charged they will start a decent running 472. at 80 deg. they just woun't keep up with the Q
 
Biggest Wal*Mart offered was 700 CCA.

When I bought mine a few years ago, they were 950 CCA. Like everything today, the price goes up, and the quality goes down. Last I heard, Johnson Controls was making the batteries for Walmart. Don't know if that is still the manufacturer..
 
Back
Top