Tips-Advise-Suggestions wanted

James Fischer

PCS Member
I have searched for anything about proper installation of beacons here on the board and not found to much.....If someone could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it...or even better yet if someone could post just how a beacon should be installed (in this case a Fed 184)......

I am replacing the "weak" beacon on the 70 Rescuer and since I need new mounting hardware I thought I would ask the experts here first....

I have found a couple of ways from internet searching..everything from using threaded rod to using stainless bolts.....The posts I did see the vehicle had no headliner so it was an easy install but my question to that would be what happens AFTER there is a headliner and you want to remove/replace the beacon ??

I will eagerly await your thoughts....thank you in advance !!!:)
 
the simplest way is to use the proper pattern. I can sent it to you. then I like to use the crush nuts and ready bolts. but the big boys used the toggle bolts and slid the toggle threw the hole and snugged it to the roof with a nut and washer. level out your plate on them, trim your skirt and Assembly the light.
 
Do you mean how do you access the beacon's fastners fron the inside once the healiner is in place?

If so, look at Terry's headliner. http://www.professionalcarsociety.org/forums/album.php?albumid=29&pictureid=283

You can see the 2 V patterns towards the front. These are two zippers that you unzip to access the bolts and wiring.

Thanks Jean-Marc,
I have that part handled..mainly I am addressing what type of screws/bolts/crush nuts etc to use for securing it to the top of the fiberglass...
getting to mine from underneith takes a looong reach....seems the zippers and the existing beacon are a bit far apart....and I dont want to risk ripping the headliner......
 
use a beacon with one bolt. 2 wires because of the fiberflass and eessee peesee. plug and go. used to carry the beacon ray behind the seat and could leave a funeral and make a 10-33. that way you dont have to install 3 sets of fasteners.another tip that worked for me when the zipper and the mounting holes were a long reach was to put the nut in a ratcheting end wrench with a small peice of tape so the nut wont fall out. and while your at it add 2 more beacons and a q2. one sharp car you got there. what did you decide on the fenders?
 
Well if anyone knows how to mount a beacon it would be Ed. He did my then 74 Criterion.
 

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the simplest way is to use the proper pattern. I can sent it to you. then I like to use the crush nuts and ready bolts. but the big boys used the toggle bolts and slid the toggle threw the hole and snugged it to the roof with a nut and washer. level out your plate on them, trim your skirt and Assembly the light.

Ed,
WHAT are "ready bolts" ??
 
use a beacon with one bolt. 2 wires because of the fiberflass and eessee peesee. plug and go. used to carry the beacon ray behind the seat and could leave a funeral and make a 10-33. that way you dont have to install 3 sets of fasteners.another tip that worked for me when the zipper and the mounting holes were a long reach was to put the nut in a ratcheting end wrench with a small peice of tape so the nut wont fall out. and while your at it add 2 more beacons and a q2. one sharp car you got there. what did you decide on the fenders?

I havent found any 184"s with just one bolt :D
So I have to use one with 3 bolts !!
I like the tape and ratchet idea though......
Actually I wanted to add a mechanical siren,but Like Steve Loftin said in another post of mine,they are REALLY hard to find with the "Superior" angled mount...and I dont like the idea of putting it on TOP of the roof only the area over the front drivers area.....
So until I find a mount or can find a reasonable priced B&M that does not need the mount I will have to wait.....BUT I am in the planning on putting
a Q on the 72 this week-end to replace the Fed 66 that I think is to small ...
As far as the fenders go I have decided to go with the MAJORITY here on the board and just have mine fixed......
I will post updates after it goes in the shop......
Had 14 hr smoked brisket for lunch today...made me think of my friend in TEXAS !!!! LOL.....:thumbsup:
Jim
 
the simplest way is to use the proper pattern. I can sent it to you. then I like to use the crush nuts and ready bolts. but the big boys used the toggle bolts and slid the toggle threw the hole and snugged it to the roof with a nut and washer. level out your plate on them, trim your skirt and Assembly the light.

Well one good thing..I dont have to trim the skirts....:thumbsup:
 
ready bolts, ready rod, all thread, just a long threaded rod you cut to length. now the crush nuts in a glass top are not a good Ida. so you use the double nut . here are the ones that MM used as did superior. drill the big hole slid the 1/4-20 toggle bolt there the hole from the top and run a nut and washer to pinch the top between the toggle and the nut. then you have 3 post to mount the light to. now then you and I can't buy this type of blind fastener. at the locale hardware store but they do have something that works just like it. think sheet rock and shelf fasteners. 1/4 inch rod is all you need to hold the light 3 pegs so you can level it. here is the pattern for the holes. print it to full page. the nuts and bolts and washers are what we are using to mount the 184 to this volunteer. if your doing corner lights the motor goes to the out side
now the last time I did this for a man out in Calf they bought me a plane ticked and made me work in the snow out side for a week. I promised not to come back
 

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ready bolts, ready rod, all thread, just a long threaded rod you cut to length. now the crush nuts in a glass top are not a good Ida. so you use the double nut . here are the ones that MM used as did superior. drill the big hole slid the 1/4-20 toggle bolt there the hole from the top and run a nut and washer to pinch the top between the toggle and the nut. then you have 3 post to mount the light to. now then you and I can't buy this type of blind fastener. at the locale hardware store but they do have something that works just like it. think sheet rock and shelf fasteners. 1/4 inch rod is all you need to hold the light 3 pegs so you can level it. here is the pattern for the holes. print it to full page. the nuts and bolts and washers are what we are using to mount the 184 to this volunteer. if your doing corner lights the motor goes to the out side
now the last time I did this for a man out in Calf they bought me a plane ticked and made me work in the snow out side for a week. I promised not to come back
Ed,
THANK YOU very much for the information and help !!
The templates will be very helpful I have made several copies and will put a few away.....
You can be sure I would never make you work out in the snow...my neighbor has a heated/air conditioned 2500sq ft shop that the 70 is currently in...it has a 8'hoist,he is a retired muffler shop owner so he has all the benders pipe, MIG/TIG, etc available along with tire balancers,sand blaster and 4 differant 6' tool boxes...all for YOUR use if you ever came this way again !!:)
 
brisket

aaahhh yes! 14 to 16 hours at 165 degrees and a good smoke ring on the meat and walaa, brisket. slice against the grain and your ready to eat! went to the bbq cookoff at the rodeo ( worlds largest cookoff and rodeo) were i was on a team for 20 years but wasnt in the cards this year so had to endure my teammates cooking. they finished in 3 place but considering there was 500 + teams ,not to bad. if you dont have a secret rub let me know and ill give up mine. and you can have a mount made out of aluminium stock. little pricey but looks good when done. advantage is a q! 3 beacons!! aint i just full of advise!!
 
James, I'll rummage around in the garage this weekend. I may have another set of those Federal supplied toggle bolts out there yet. I'm not sure, but it's a good strong maybe. If I've got 'em they're yours.
 
The nutserts that you install into the steel roof are much better, since if you hit the beacon, they will not tear up the roof like the T bolts will. Another good thing about them is that should you decide to move the beacon, you can unscrew the studs, and screw in some brass screws to close up the holes. If a T bolt gets damaged, you have a lot more work to replace it, unless there is a zipper under it.
 
The nutserts that you install into the steel roof are much better, since if you hit the beacon, they will not tear up the roof like the T bolts will. Another good thing about them is that should you decide to move the beacon, you can unscrew the studs, and screw in some brass screws to close up the holes. If a T bolt gets damaged, you have a lot more work to replace it, unless there is a zipper under it.

But...But.....I dont have a steel roof......should I get one installed ??:D
 
aaahhh yes! 14 to 16 hours at 165 degrees and a good smoke ring on the meat and walaa, brisket. slice against the grain and your ready to eat! went to the bbq cookoff at the rodeo ( worlds largest cookoff and rodeo) were i was on a team for 20 years but wasnt in the cards this year so had to endure my teammates cooking. they finished in 3 place but considering there was 500 + teams ,not to bad. if you dont have a secret rub let me know and ill give up mine. and you can have a mount made out of aluminium stock. little pricey but looks good when done. advantage is a q! 3 beacons!! aint i just full of advise!!

3 out of 500 ?? I would consider that a Winner !!!

I would be interested both in the rub..and the mount.....let me know more when you have some free time.....I know you are busy at the moment !!!
 
James, I'll rummage around in the garage this weekend. I may have another set of those Federal supplied toggle bolts out there yet. I'm not sure, but it's a good strong maybe. If I've got 'em they're yours.

Russell,
That would be great......I appreciate the thought !!!:)
Thank you !!
 
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