Door hinge pins

I have removed the hinge pins on the rear passenger side..and replaced with new pins and inserts.....after all that the door still has about the same amount of play as it did before....

I noticed the copper inserts are about a 1/2" shorter then the originals...would this make a differance ?

I used the Dorman pins/sleeves as called for a 70 Fleetwood....Napa could not find commercial chassis listed....??

Would anyone have the correct GM number or kit number for a commercial chassis(70 Cadillac ambulance) ??

Thanks in advance !!

Here is a link to Au-ve-co Products parts hinge bushing page. . You can find it online or any paint and body supply co can get the items. Is the bushing tight in the hinge? The pin has to rotate in the bushing. Sometimes the hinge will wallow out and you need a oversize bushing .

to be honest with you I have never found a center door with bad bushings. the front door and the back door yes. not the center ones. the right one would be the one that they got in and out the most. door wide open one person picks up the door the other watches the hinge at the bushing. to you get movement at the pin or does the whole hinge move either on the body or the door? if you have movement with the new bushings in at the pin then did you press the bushing in the hinge? or just slid them in place. the new pin should have been right for the bushings. but it could have been packaged wrong. try to slide the old pin threw them. if you can't catch your nail on a ridge then the old pins are still good. the only way to get the right bushing and pin is to take the old one down so you can measure the outside of it and the old pin to measure for the inside diameter. the bushing should press into the the hole and the pin slide threw with a light tap. if it was allowed to cut threw you may need to drill it over sized and use the next one up. remember caddy quits at the cowl, this hinges may and are most likely not 70 caddy. but MM. the same one they used from 66 to 70. pictures help every time

Well when I close the door I have to lift up just slightly as I close it and it shuts fine.....if I dont do that the door does not close on the first attempt ....
so I assumed it was the pin/bushings....when we got the pin out and looked at the bushings and pin they looked fine....there is a bit of "play" in the bushing when the pin goes in but not much...when I replace the ORIGINAL bushing in the hinge I have to work at it to get it in...but when I put the NEW bushing in it slides right in no problem.....and also the new bushings are about 1/2" shorter then what was in there.....
I will post a couple of pictures tomorrow showing the top corners of the doors not lining up properly....
Thanks for the help so far !!

If the bushing is gone on your striker bolt, it will cause the door to not close correctly. You can get replacement bushings from any auto parts store. Also, I have used a piece of PEX plumbing tubeing, cut to the right length. Then, you cut one slit length wide, and it snaps right over the bolt without having to remove it. I have some left over, so if this is the problem just shoot me a private message with you address and I will mail you some.
Kurt

the door is out of adjustment. if you have to lift up on the handle to close the door and the body lines don't line up then the door is out of adjustment. what your are doing is spring the door frame by pulling up on it to line the pin. if there is no movement at the hing with the door open they are good being shorter just give you less of a bearing surface to wear on. so with out a picture of what the door and hing agagment looks like I can't say what you need to do to bring it up. the best way to start is to remove the striker so that it's not fighting that. then make sure you have no movment at the hing pins. if they are not loose then close the door and see were the body lines are. then take a magact marker and deaw a line around te hinges on the door and on the piller so you know were you are. I'm not sure when MM changed there B piller, again a picture. on the 68 and 69 the hing moves up down in and out on both the door and the piller. but forward and aft by adding or removign shims at the piller.
did you remove the hinge to replace the bushing? I take it that changing the bushings did not worsen or improve the problem you had at first?
the pictures we need are the for courners of the door and the hinge aragment. you need to pull the stricker off check for movment at the hing take a picture of the hinge aranment at the piller with the door open and then close the door take a picture of all 4 cournesr and we'll get back to you.

did we get this problem figured out?

John ED Renstrom said:

did we get this problem figured out?

Click to expand...

We are working on it as we speak........got the door back on with the original pins and new bushings.........now just trying to adjust everything as you suggested......takes a bit of time but I think we will get it (fingers crossed)...thanks Ed for checking in on us....

just don't force anything and you'll be OK