I have a small problem with my stretcher in my 78 Horton and hoping someone can help. The pin on the stretcher doesn't seem to line up with the hook bolted to the floor. as you can see in the photo's the pin seemd to be about 1 inch shorter then the hook, and it won't grab onto the hook and lock into place.
Stretcher problem
- Thread starter Mike Boyer
- Start date
Martin Harvey
PCS Member
I might be wrong but maybe your hook and bar is set for another kind of stretcher like a model 30 ? Ive got the same problem with mine and I replaced the stretcher by a 32 older than the car... and it fits perfectly.
Correct; this hook was not made for the cot shown. The cot shown ( a #32?) needs a Ferno #1 or similar.
Bill Leverett
PCS Member/Super Site Supporter/Paramedic Supervis
To fit that locking bar and antlers you'll need a Ferno model 35A stretcher. They are very common.
Martin Harvey
PCS Member
Were they produced back in 1978 or it was a later modification of the Horton?
loosen the nuts on the release and it will adjust forward or back. all the ferno except the 28-29 will use the same set up the long bar was adjusted with the screw on the end. the floor mount but loosing the nuts and sliding it were it need to be.
The cot still isn't intended for the antlers, they are for a #35. The 35 was not available in '78, so the cot bar and antlers were likely a later addition.
I think the covered floor plates may have been the original mounts for the #1 cot bar (though it seems awfully far from the wall to me). Usually, they were mounted on the left wall.
(The #35 came out in the very late '80s or early '90s. I remember thinking, "Oh what a relief it is!" when they first came out, it made a huge difference in ease of loading and reducing back injuries.)
I think the covered floor plates may have been the original mounts for the #1 cot bar (though it seems awfully far from the wall to me). Usually, they were mounted on the left wall.
(The #35 came out in the very late '80s or early '90s. I remember thinking, "Oh what a relief it is!" when they first came out, it made a huge difference in ease of loading and reducing back injuries.)
now I see the peg is to short. don't believe I have see a gurney with a dip in the frame like that. the only option is to get a replacement peg. the come in two pieces and you could mount that on the upper frame of the gurney right over the other one. or cut off a couple inches out of the lock. replacing the gurney would be cheaper then that. but the replacement peg is about 40 bucks from a ferno dealer.
nailing a 2x4 so the rear wheels of the gurney would rest on it would make removal kind of hard but it would work to.
nailing a 2x4 so the rear wheels of the gurney would rest on it would make removal kind of hard but it would work to.
Mark Jordan
PCS Member
I worked on a 78 Horton when I started on the local FD. It had the longer
style J-bar that mounted on the left side wall below the cabinets. As has been stated earlier, the antlers were probably added later for an upgraded cot.
style J-bar that mounted on the left side wall below the cabinets. As has been stated earlier, the antlers were probably added later for an upgraded cot.This truck most likely had a #30, #29, or #29-M stretcher when new.
Mike Stevens
PCS Member
short gurney pin
Okay, I will admit I know little about this short gurney pin thing. Why can't a small piece of round bar stock, or a short piece of tube stock be added to the existing pin? This may not be the fix for the purist but it would keep the gurney in place. It wouldn't cost an arm or a leg. You will eventually run across the parts you need for the proper fix.
Of course you may have room on the antlers to ad a hole lower than the bottom one now. That might give just enough bite for the hook to engage the gurney.
Keeping it simple may be the quickest fix.
Good luck,
Mike
ps: if any purists want to beat me for my ideas, I will furnish the wet noodle in Milwaukee.
M
Okay, I will admit I know little about this short gurney pin thing. Why can't a small piece of round bar stock, or a short piece of tube stock be added to the existing pin? This may not be the fix for the purist but it would keep the gurney in place. It wouldn't cost an arm or a leg. You will eventually run across the parts you need for the proper fix.
Of course you may have room on the antlers to ad a hole lower than the bottom one now. That might give just enough bite for the hook to engage the gurney.
Keeping it simple may be the quickest fix.
Good luck,
Mike
ps: if any purists want to beat me for my ideas, I will furnish the wet noodle in Milwaukee.
M
ok Thanks guys...I guess I should have asked Evan before I posted this lol....maybe he will know what happened ? but for now ......a strap will work to hold the thing in place......( its not like I'll be driving it anywhere anytime soon ) I do have another longer bar/clamp that was in the back but never thought it could be orginal. I will pull it out and snap a picture of it to post.
in the meantime I do like Mike Stevens idea...but now I know what to look for !!
Thanks guys
does anyone know what model the stretcher is ? ( there is no tag on it )
in the meantime I do like Mike Stevens idea...but now I know what to look for !!
Thanks guys
does anyone know what model the stretcher is ? ( there is no tag on it )
Attachments
Wayne Krakowski
PCS Member
You can see by undoing the nut you can adjust the bar up or down,yet as it was earlier stated that stretcher appears to have a funny curve to it,and with this bar do not think the wings will work.we will have to go on a mission in Milwaukee and see different ones eh! sounds like a plan in a few short weeks.
That is a Ferno #1 cot bar, with floor mounts. Probably what was original.
The cot is an early Model #35. But it doesn't fit the cot bar/antlers in the truck? Hmmm, they could be set up for a Model 29 or a later Model 35...
if the front mount plate is still in the truck remove the antlers and the lock bar and put it back in. it should just screw to the floor with the rear going were the 2 piece lock bar is. then straight up by the antlers should be a plate screwed to the floor. you can see that there is a lot of vertical adjustment on that bar. it's the one for that gurney. the gurney looks to me to be a late 35 with the roll in wheels and safety catch. there is sub post to be a hook about the door sill that would catch that movable front bar keeping the gurney from coming out till you lowered the wheels and lifted the safety bar off it. they were a pain you know were and most got lost when parking the rig
Bill Leverett
PCS Member/Super Site Supporter/Paramedic Supervis
Not sure I have anything more to add except that the center mount was done later in the ambulance's life.
If you look at where the attendant seat at the head of the stretcher is, the stretcher should align with it. Obviously it doesn't. Another tip off is that there is no CPR seat on the cabinet side of the ambulance so there really is no need to center mount the cot...except to move it closer to the bench seat perhaps.
From the position of the extra covers I'd suggest that the extra locking bar/mount is not correct either. Most likely had a model 26 or model 29 stretcher with a floor mount hook at the head end and the locking hook at the foot end.
Either of the Steve's are probably more familiar with that set up than I am.
If you look at where the attendant seat at the head of the stretcher is, the stretcher should align with it. Obviously it doesn't. Another tip off is that there is no CPR seat on the cabinet side of the ambulance so there really is no need to center mount the cot...except to move it closer to the bench seat perhaps.
From the position of the extra covers I'd suggest that the extra locking bar/mount is not correct either. Most likely had a model 26 or model 29 stretcher with a floor mount hook at the head end and the locking hook at the foot end.
Either of the Steve's are probably more familiar with that set up than I am.