Wig wag complications

Kevin Lynch

PCS Member
On my 78 American La France: I bought a wig-wag flasher online and tried to put it in this week.
I took both headlight assemblies off the front of the truck. (4 round headlights).
I spliced a wire into each of the high beam wires (within the assembly) and ran these two new wires into the truck. I juiced each one with my Power Probe III to see if there were any complications. I juiced one wire but both high beam headlights came on. So somewhere these guys have a common wire.
Any ideas of where to start? The foot dimmer has 3 wires going to it; the headlight switch has only one indent (click) and has two posts- one hot, and the other having 3 wires going from it. I suspect one goes to the floor dimmer button, one to the front amber lights and one to the rear lights.
Any thoughts would be appreciated!!!!
Thanks
Kevin
 
Kevin,
I don't think you will be able to wire it to do what you want it to do. Both high beam headlights are wired together after the dimmer switch so that on high beam, both high beam lights will come on. If you don't care if they don't do that, cut the high beam wires at the bulbs, then hook the wig-wag wires up to each of the wires to each bulb.

I hope that is clear.
Thanks,
Mike
 
Don't know what kind of wig wag device you have but the cop ones I have wire as follows wire to dash or console switch that wire ignition controlled hot to switch the out to WW device. After cutting high beam feed on each headlight.One wire from EACH headlight high beam section to WW device. One wire from former high beam feed (whichever light closer) to WW device. The both high beams are wired to one feed from dimmer switch on all older vehicles the wig wag device cuts this off and alternates each headlight when in use by activating inside switch. When turned off the device then feeds both lights. You should have gotten directions with the device or the codes are inscribed on the case
 
Don't know what kind of wig wag device you have but the cop ones I have wire as follows wire to dash or console switch that wire ignition controlled hot to switch the out to WW device. After cutting high beam feed on each headlight.One wire from EACH headlight high beam section to WW device. One wire from former high beam feed (whichever light closer) to WW device. The both high beams are wired to one feed from dimmer switch on all older vehicles the wig wag device cuts this off and alternates each headlight when in use by activating inside switch. When turned off the device then feeds both lights. You should have gotten directions with the device or the codes are inscribed on the case

I agree with above comment, that's how all mine have worked. Here is a wiring diagram for the ones I use.
wire.jpg
 
Thanks everyone - what I have learned since yesterday...

Thanks John! At the moment, this just may be impossible. However I found a video on you tube that instructs the installer to use diodes in the wiring to stop the power from what I call back flow. Also, Gall's has a flasher unit with 5 connections on it- and as many of the diagrams show, this is what you need. I have a 3 terminal flasher marked X, L, and L. I'm going to look into the diode idea since that might be the quickest solution. Many thanks to everyone!!!
Kev
 
The diode ones are for newer computer controlled vehicles. Don't think you need that on the 78 LaFrance! You will need to figure out if all four high beams are on one circuit or if they did 2 and 2. Also verify the ground compatibility of the unit with your truck and its light set up.
 
Thanks John! At the moment, this just may be impossible. However I found a video on you tube that instructs the installer to use diodes in the wiring to stop the power from what I call back flow. Also, Gall's has a flasher unit with 5 connections on it- and as many of the diagrams show, this is what you need. I have a 3 terminal flasher marked X, L, and L. I'm going to look into the diode idea since that might be the quickest solution. Many thanks to everyone!!!
Kev

Yes, the wig wag headlight flashers from Galls ia what I use and the diagram I posted. I also have some flashers like you said you have, and they are NOT for headlights, just alternating flashers such as grille lights, tunnel lights etc. They are either on or off.
 
If we are referring a to a 78 Alf Engine I installed a Code 3 710 Flasher on the high beams of one a few years ago. Inside the dash between the drivers door and the steering wheel their is a separate output wire to each highbeam coming off a circuit breaker with just one going to the floor switch. Put the 2 wires to the beams on the outputs, floor switch on pause or override flashing, and ran 12v to the flasher off a switch at the switch panel on the dash. As long as the floor switch switches the 2 low beams off and 2 high beams on and vice versa their is no reason to mess with the floor switch or behind the lights.

I cannot tell you exactly which circuit breaker it as there is several. I had original factory manuals and wiring diagrams provided to me at the time by the department who owned and still used the 78 Alf as a first out Engine.

I hope this made since and will provide a little assistance.
 
"As long as the floor switch switches the 2 low beams off and 2 high beams on and vice versa their is no reason to mess with the floor switch or behind the lights"

The reason I mention this is a year earlier I had to trouble shoot the lights on this truck. Complaint was that when high beams were turned on both low beams and high beams quit. The reason is there is a separate circuit breaker for the low and high beams. The floor switch switches between the 2. Found the low and high beams tied together behind the lights. So when the high beams where turned on the low beams stayed on as well. This cause both circuit breakers to trip until they cooled off then you could use your low beams normally.

Kevin you are correct about the headlight switch. One wire is to the floor switch which goes through a circuit breaker, another reason you can only have low or high beams, not both. Second wire is parking lights, clearance lights, etc. Third is tail lights. The lights beneath the doors are tied into the compartment lights.
 
Thanks Jay

From what I'm reading, I'm doomed. The flasher unit was sold as a wig wag and has 3 terminals. The directions above (and many other) call for a flasher with 5 terminals - like the Galls model with its own switch built in. I need to do this, but thought it would make a fun project.
I agree that if I really wanted these to work, I'd have to sacrifice the high beams.
Thanks everyone!
 
NP, Ya the Code 3 700 flasher worked well because the pause or override terminal let the high beams work as they normally do whether flashing was off or on. Normal use of high beams was never interrupted. I used the code 3 flasher for several reasons. Screw down terminals made it easier, it was made for higher amp lights than most headlights and old school wiring in the truck made very similar to wiring any old halogen lights to a flasher.
 
I do not see sacrificing the high beams a big problem on a collector vehicle. I could not do it for 2 reasons, night responses often times called for use of the high beams & clear flashing lights on scene switched to something solid burning is extremely useful on very dark and lonely scenes.
 
Sounds like the Galls flasher is just that a flasher to make lights flash. Hook it up and you can one or ten lights to flash at the same time. Just depends on how many you put on the string. Vis one wire switch off-on,2nd power feed third to string of lights you want to flash.
 
From what I'm reading, I'm doomed. The flasher unit was sold as a wig wag and has 3 terminals. The directions above (and many other) call for a flasher with 5 terminals - like the Galls model with its own switch built in. I need to do this, but thought it would make a fun project.
I agree that if I really wanted these to work, I'd have to sacrifice the high beams.
Thanks everyone!
Kevin, exactly what unit do you have?
 
Sounds like the Galls flasher is just that a flasher to make lights flash. Hook it up and you can one or ten lights to flash at the same time. Just depends on how many you put on the string. Vis one wire switch off-on,2nd power feed third to string of lights you want to flash.

The galls flasher it to make the high beams alternate (wig-wag) with the ability to use the high beams normally when the switch is off.
The flasher Kevin has is for accessory alternating (wig wag) lights like grille lights, that their ONLY purpose is to flash when the switch is on, and not illuminate in any way when off. This example below is the what the flasher Kevin would be used for
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u56dP0p0OOQ
 
LONG ago in the 70's BEFORE all the electronic devices were out. I was outfitting police and fire cars. I made my own wig-wag... Basic parts were a #537 flasher. This flasher has Three contacts, but both output legs are stronger than the 550 type 3-term flasher and they alternate.
I used TWO relays- One was for switching the headlight power from wig-wag to regular use of headlights (you dont want wig-wag at night, when you turn on the emergency lights) the other relay was used as the headlight wig wag signal control. I have to stop and think back how I wired all this.. that was almost 40 years ago. VERY soon after I made up a couple dozen of these, they came available--- I think Signal Stat made one. It also used the 537 flasher.

NOW- Question-- How do I post a thread about this Cadillac Limo I am working on? Need some help figuring out how to rebuild these 3-layer poly carbonate bullet-proof windows on Ronald Regan's car.
 
NOW- Question-- How do I post a thread about this Cadillac Limo I am working on? Need some help figuring out how to rebuild these 3-layer poly carbonate bullet-proof windows on Ronald Regan's car.

At the top of the page there is a link that says forums. It will show the ones you have access to, and just start a new thread in the proper forum with any questions you have.
 
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