Information needed on 1969 Pontiac/Superior Ambulance

I have a lead on a 1969 Pontiac/Superior Ambulance. Hoping someone knowledgeable or owner of this year can give me some ideas of issues related to this year to pay particular attention to as I check into the car further. The car is complete with the original engine and runs. It has the lights and an electronic siren. This model has the vertically mounted bullet lights on the front The only bad part (so far) is the rear bumper has been replaced with a custom made "industrial" style one.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Bill

More pictures

Here's a few more shots.

Bill

Pontiac's of that era have a good history of longevity, as long as you change the timing gears and chain before the engine reaches 70,000 miles. They also have a tendency to develop a lot of sludge in the oil pan if regular oil changes haven't been performed. This car appears to be in good condition and should make a perfect candidate for a reliable road trip car. Nice find, and locating a replacement rear bumper shouldn't be that difficult. I believe that it is the same as the same year car. Check the Northland website for pictures of similiar Pontiacs.

Unless the Ambulance rear bumpers have a step in them they would be the same as 1969-1970 Pontiac Funeral coaches as well. I've been looking for a spare rear bumper for my 70 for over 2 years now and have found nothing. I also know of another 1969 Ambulance owner who is missing his rear bumper and has been looking for a couple of years too and connot locate anything either, not even a core. The rear bumper on my 70 coach is 6 pieces held together with 30 bolts. I can see why this bumper on the car was fabricated.
-Aaron

Paul beat me to it on the timing gear/chain problems that Pontiac had back then. The original camshaft timing gear was an aluminum/nylon combo that usually failed in warranty, at that time 5 years/50,000 miles. I still remember the part numbers for all the associated parts.

The other issue that comes up also, if whoever changes the gears and chains does not drop the oil pan and clean up the sump and the pickup screen (partially shrouded) the screen can clog up with nylon debris and restrict oil flow.

I saw a lot (and worked with) a lot of hack mechanics back then that flagged the job, stashed the oil pan gaskets under their bench and hoped for the best. And when it came back for a oil light on at idle complaint, then they would drop the pan, call it a oil pump failure and slap in a set of rod bearings.

So, it might pay to pull the timing cover and see if the cam gear is a aluminum/nylon or a all steel one. At least for peace of mind. It's not a big job seeing that it does not have A/C.

The only other thing, in '69 Pontiac had a problem with water pump failures.
They redesigned it, interchangeable except you have to use the correct water pump pulley with it. It was late in the '69 model run that this change was made. Safest way to get a replacement is to take your old one and match it up.

Also, if you change the water pump, there is a metal baffle behind the water pump. Before you turn in the old pump core, make sure that you remove it as the replacement pump will not have one wither on it or with it loose. And the pump should contain two gaskets, one between the pump and baffle, the other between the baffle and the timing cover. If this part is not installed, the car will definitely overheat. If yours has any pinholes in it, new ones are still available from GM.

Hope I didn't bore you, but I've owned "real" Pontiacs since 1970 and presently have a 428 car in the garage. Unfortunately not a pro car though.

The car looks good from what we can see in the pictures you posted. You can take a look at the pics and video clips linked in my signature below to see what issues I have found with both my 67 and 69. Most of the information is about my 67, but the same applies for my 69 but only worst….

If the seller allows you, I would lift the rubber carpet in the driver and passenger area to have a really good look at the floor pans. Also, in the patient care area, if you could remove the two long horizontal blue sections above the wheel wells and look in there for signs of rust, especially in between the wheel well and the bumper, on both side of the car. I found in both cars that this space on the driver’s side was worst because of the fresh air vent that was facing forward collecting fresh air and rain.

If you are interested in the car, these should not be show stoppers, but it may convince the seller to reduce his price.

Thanks!

:thumbsup:Thanks everyone for the information. Wow! It is truly amazing how much collective knowledge there is out there in the PCS.

I'm having a mechanic look over the vehicle this week and will have him pay attention to the points raised.

I'll keep you posted on the outcome.

Bill

Hide a $5.00 bill in some obscure mechanical place and if he finds it, you will know that he gave the car a through examination. If he finds it you are out $5.00, but will know that he did examine everything.

Didn't buy it

After having a mechanic (who also restores old vehicles) go over the vehicle I've decided to pass on the purchase. Some of the issues he found include: rear door botton rusted through, many bondo repairs areas chipping off, door sills are soft, the owner wouldn't let him pull up the front floor covering, obvious frame repair on the front on both sides and significant rust under the car and on the rear frame behind the rear axle. As well, I'd want to replace the rear custom bumper which may not be an easy find.

The owner is asking $5,000 and is firm in his price. The vehicle is located in Smithers BC (north western area of BC). If anyone wants the sellers contact info please PM me and I'll provide the details. I also have numerous photos of the car I can send.

Bill

That’s too bad. It would have been nice to have a someone to compare notes with on the restoration of a 69 Superior.

BTW, is your avatar a picture of your 53?

Yes, that's my 1953 from the town I grew up in.