Going for Air......

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Lifeliner goes in next week to get the A/C repaired. Still not decided whether to fix all three units or just the front. I know the two rear uints will require the fan motors to be replaced and no telling what else. I need the vacuum lines re-attached to get the controls to work and then freon. Staying with the R-12 system, just pray there are no leaks and the compressor is good. Everything else has been good so I'm thinking the compressor will be too!

Richard
 
the question is are you going to be carrying any one in the back. if you open the sliding window you will get air back there. but the units are interconnected. should be only 2 for AC. blower motor out or not your recharging the back evaporator. the blower on it (rear)does not need to work for the front system to work. if there is a leak in the rear system or hoses going to it one could in theory plug off that set of hoses and just run the cab unit as caddy intended. gives you ac, open the sliding glass and it will go into the back like a van or suberban with only front air. but if there are no leaks changing the hoses will be as expesive as the exter r-12. be sure they add the sealer to the system. and good luck if the man doing it knowes what he is doing it can go well. if not you get a small countries GNP and still don't have air. keeping the r-12 is the right way to go. some of us how ever still remember the first car we got that had air. I had it in a car long before I got it in the house.
 
the question is are you going to be carrying any one in the back. if you open the sliding window you will get air back there. but the units are interconnected. should be only 2 for AC. blower motor out or not your recharging the back evaporator. the blower on it (rear)does not need to work for the front system to work. if there is a leak in the rear system or hoses going to it one could in theory plug off that set of hoses and just run the cab unit as caddy intended. gives you ac, open the sliding glass and it will go into the back like a van or suberban with only front air. but if there are no leaks changing the hoses will be as expesive as the exter r-12. be sure they add the sealer to the system. and good luck if the man doing it knowes what he is doing it can go well. if not you get a small countries GNP and still don't have air. keeping the r-12 is the right way to go. some of us how ever still remember the first car we got that had air. I had it in a car long before I got it in the house.

He worked on a van I had which had a rear A/C that did not work for years and he got it working for next to nothing. We shall see just how good he is next week.

Richard
 
Richard,

I pulled both the heater and AC lines to the rear of my 73. In discussion with my mechanic, as were either system were to fail on the highway, the odds were that it would be due to a rear component failure. Once the rear A/C was disconnected, the front was able to hold a charge with no problems. I will be interested in seeing how you make out. Good luck!
 
I find this interesting, because I can see no reasonable reason that the rear should fail before the front, especially, since the rear units in all probability saw considerably less service time than the front units. There are two distinct parts of each unit, no matter where they are placed. In the heating system, you have the electrical fan, and the heater core. Heater cores do leak, but they are easily repaired, and removing and having the unit reconditioned isn't a big deal with either. It is more of a labor issue to get them out than anything else. The heater cores on my 1963 Chrysler are both original, and both are still functioning fine. If the electrical fan fails, it also can be repaired or replaced. Finding a replacement can be more of a task, but it will not put the car out of commission. On the A/C side of things, it gets somewhat more complicated with the components of each side. If you change all the hose seals, and service the compressor unit then the unit should be fine for many years to come. Most times that an A/C unit fails, it is either a seal failure or the compressor that is the cause. The reason for most seal failures is that the unit isn't run in the winter, causing the seals to become dry and shrink. If the compressor should fail, it doesn't matter, since it will effect both front and rear units. Compressor failures are usually a result of loss of refrigerant because of a seal failure. If you want to consider that if you remove the rear half of the system, that you lessen the chance of failure by 50%, that I would agree with, but you still haven't changed the possible failure rate of the front unit.
 
I'll at least let my guy look at the rear units and if it is possible to keep them and they work and not too expensive, I would like for them to work. But if it turns out to be a huge expensive then they are being disconnected.
Will let you know as soon as I know.

Richard

PS: Good news. I may have found an interior guy to replace my headliners I just have to get the Lifeliner to him to look at it. He has the bright orange material that is used throughout my rig too. My headliner is in good shape but the zippers are ripped. Maybe he can just replace the zippers but either way it needs to come out to get the urine stained insulation out from all those Ohio mice. Bet there is a ton of crap up there as well.
 
Richard,

I pulled both the heater and AC lines to the rear of my 73. In discussion with my mechanic, as were either system were to fail on the highway, the odds were that it would be due to a rear component failure. Once the rear A/C was disconnected, the front was able to hold a charge with no problems. I will be interested in seeing how you make out. Good luck!

Not like you are ever going to use it again, right? Cannot wait to see your rig up close.

Richard
 
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