Windshield Trim

I had my car at the body shop for an estimate on repairs... My windshield has been chronically leaking. The pinch weld has a fair amount of rust on it, and I suspect it didn't seal last time because they neglected to properly clean it. This shop quoted me at 10-15 hours, to remove the glass, blast the pinch weld, fill any holes, prime it, and reinstall. It seems a bit high, but they do nothing but classic cars and examples of their work look stellar.

Now for the question... 2 different people that looked at it were horrified that there was a screw holding the windshield trim at the top corners. Those screws have been there since I bought the car, but they insist that there should NEVER be a screw holding the windshield trim. Can someone with a 1970 Superior take a look at their windshield trim and let me know if the top corners have a screw in them?

jim

no they don't but that being said one could be able to get a set out of some the the Texas cars. 65 to 70 should be the same. same as the glass. if they are going to pull the glass any way you should put in new clips as long as your in there. this is the reason for the screws to began with. the clips rusted off and were damaged some time ago. the easy fix would be to drill a hole and set them with a screw. as that was the way it was the last time the glass was changed the just did it the same. most shops are more worried about getting the job back out then correcting any mistakes while they are in there. if you paying to have it pulled sandblasted and repainted. then go all the way and only do it once. remind them the new standards call for nothing put a layer of self etching primer between the pinch weld and the glass. put the glass in then paint around the glass with the body color. the molding clips are set in with screws and need to be changed before the glass is put in. standard molding are short you need the one from a car with the commercial glass. don't forget to fix the screw holes to.

I agree with Ed except for the fact that an etch primer will not repel corrosion unless it is topcoated. Epoxy primers will repel moisture, but also should be topcoated as well. I suggest the shop sandblast, etch, or epoxy prime, and then topcoat. The pinchweld can be scuffed before applying the
3M Pinchweld Primer and urethane or urethane ribbon. I can supply the 3M number if needed!
Don

The studs that originally held the moulding clips can be replaced as long as there is metal to attach them to. That would eliminate the need for screw holes. I have them in my tool box at work. They are installed with a stud gun that is used to pull dents without drilling holes. I haven't used them because I repair late model cars and the studs are out-dated. It can be put back to original if they have the stud gun set-up.

Don Lagerstrom said:

I agree with Ed except for the fact that an etch primer will not repel corrosion unless it is topcoated. Epoxy primers will repel moisture, but also should be topcoated as well. I suggest the shop sandblast, etch, or epoxy prime, and then topcoat. The pinchweld can be scuffed before applying the
3M Pinchweld Primer and urethane or urethane ribbon. I can supply the 3M number if needed!
Don

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that's what my thinking has been but the man that does my glass said he wants them that way per his instructions from the his glass co. they provide his insurance if he does it there way. they use the glass primer to seal the self etching I guess. then the urethane to set the glass. we always cleaned, primed and top coated then put in the glass. when you could do them in the shop with out fear of being sued if some one wrecks there car or a tail light bulb goes out. this 66 superior I'm working on now and the 73 S&S I did before had the glass clips put on with screws. the stud gun is a good way to do it if your set up but either way you need the glass out to put them in. same as the pop rivet stud kit. they all have there good and bad points same as the glue on fall off ones. the screws would defiantly hold the molding in place. can't say I have never done that either. you work in Ranch country some times you figure out that stout beats pretty for lasting in the field. a screw or two in the trim is better than it missing. but can't say I ever did glass trim that way.

The problem with the screws is THE HOLE. It is always a rust spot in hiding. The stud gun kits are 110 volts and can be used anywhere you have an outlet. It would be well worth a few calls to do the way it worked best. It's welded on and NO HOLE! The new clips slide right on as it was designed to.:thumbsup:

My 1969 cad superior sovereign needs a windshield seal, reveal trim installed, and retaining clips. Pretty sure the top of the A-pillar is rusted. Are the regular cadillac 680 styles windshield reveal clips the same? And does anyone have a contact for the "Texas cars"? An inch of RTV is currently the only thing sealing the glass. Btw thanks John ED.

the clips would be the same as the car. they are a fairly common so not that hard to come by Auveco supply's them and any parts store that carries there product can get them.

Available from TP Tool & Equipment in Ohio... If you do a google search, you will find that they regularly have discount coupon codes for mail orders. They are also at Spring and Fall Carlisle Swap Meet

For ultimate dent removal, moulding rivet installation, and shrinking/expanding metal.
Remove dents professionally in hoods, fenders, deck lids, or any other sheet metal panel on your car, truck, or tractor. Simply plug Magna-Spot® into 115 volt 15 amp outlet, insert draw pin into stud gun, hold against clean metal surface, and press trigger 1/2 to 1 second. Instantly, Magna-Spot® welds draw pin to metal surface where it can be pulled out using slide hammer supplied in kit. Once dent is pulled, grind off draw pins flush with metal surface, and finish with body filler. For large dents, several pins can be welded in a series as shown.
Moulding trim rivets for holding aluminum, stainless, or plastic trim clips can also be welded using the optional rivet electrode tip and rivets (sold separately). Insert trim rivet into stud gun, place against clean metal surface until outer ring is seated, press trigger for 1/2 to 1 second, and rivet will now be welded to metal. After painting, plastic or metal trim clips will slide over rivets and hold your trim in place.
Shrink high spots and expand small dents by using the optional shrinking/expanding electrode tip (sold separately). Place Magna-Spot® Gun against clean metal surface until outer ring is seated, press trigger for 1/2 second, two or three times to heat metal. Generally, small high spots will disappear. If high spot does not shrink, tap lightly with body hammer. If a dent does not expand, apply a damp cloth to the heated metal to raise the surface.
Includes Magna-Spot® 1000 Gun, slide hammer for pulling dents, one draw pin electrode tip, and (100) 2.0mm draw pins. Ship wt: 17 lbs. 10" long, 9" high, 4-1/4" wide. #8038-15. Made in USA.

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Both of the funeral coaches i owned had leaking windshields, a 1976 Superior 3 way and a 1980 S&S. The first car had absolutely no rust, the second one had the most rust on a car I have ever seen.

I just assumed that windshields leak on all professional cars....

The pinch weld in my '86 Superior is gone. Not there. I am in the process of rebuilding it now. hopefully will have it in in a couple days.

now all leaks are windshield. but some how a lot of them drip water from a seam in the cowl .