Gap Filler

Jean-Marc Dugas

PCS Member
The plan for this weekend is to work on filling the various gaps between the new floor infrastructure and side panels. True to the original design, these gaps varies from 1/8” to almost ½”. What do you suggest I ask for when I go shopping for gap filler?
 
There are some very good silicone seam sealers available today that will hold up well over time. One thing to do before you start sealing seams is to make sure that all new and old metal surfaces are properly sealed from rusting with primer and paint. If you put a seam sealer on bare metal, you will have the same type of rust problems in just a few years, although it will take many years before they become as bad as the ones that you have already repaired. Keep in mind that the old metal needs to be protected as well as all the new metal. Before you finish the floor, it would be a good time to remove and properly clean the inside of the fuel tank, and put a sealer in there. It is a lot easier to remove the connections from the top of the tank while exposed, than it is to remove them when you are in the process of removing the tank from below.
 
you can get the self etching primer in a spray can in most hardware stores or use a oil base like rust-oleum. then let that set up. fasten a set of tabs to the wood so that it will ride even with what is next to it. do your test fit dry so you can make any adjustments you need. and when your happy with the way it fits. use something like construction adhesive, or silicone. a sealer that will set up hard but not swell when it dries. measure how high the angle is your setting it into. cut a v notch in the caulking tube tip that deep. hold the gun at a right angle and put it on. it will pile up that high in a v shape when you get all around then flop the wood in wiggle it around to were you want it. then clean up any sealer coming out the inside and leave it till tomorrow. believe it our not this is the same way you would put in a glue in windshield. if the glue is as high as the angle when you put the wood down it will spread out and give you a good seal. as it set up it will fill any gaps. the big mess will be on the underside. the bad part of the construction adhesive is once it's set your done. you'll have to brake it out. the silicone can be cut and the wood lifted back out. both are messy. neather are what superior used but then they weren't around when the superior was built.
 
As usual, thanks guys for you tips. I'll start by treating the metal with the POR-15 kit that Santa brought me, and then I’ll take care of the gaps. I may also take John’s advice and glue the floor back in place.

I'll have pics posted once I’m done.
 
Please read the POR 15 instructions carefully. I have no experience with the product, however, I have been told that it isn't for use on new metal. You will also need to clean the new metal of any oil residue, since the new metal is usually coated with a oil film to keep it from rusting while waiting to be used. You can use brake cleaner to clean the new metal. If the POR 15 isn't for new metal, then prime it with the metal etching primer that Ed mentioned, and then top coat with a Rustoleum product.
 
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