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Technical Discussion Forum For the discussion of technical questions about Professional Cars and their repair and maintenance. Posting in this forum is limited to PCS Members and / or Site Supporters. We encourage all website users to become members of the Professional Car Society and / or become Site Supporter.

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  #21  
Old 03-31-2018, 05:33 PM
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I put on a cheapo plastic filter to test and it drove great. I will do as you said and try the coat hanger approach, that way im still using the return line
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Old 03-31-2018, 07:33 PM
Peter Grave Peter Grave is offline
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Instead of messing with coat hanger and possible paper scraps getting to carb just install a T fitting on the carb side of the strait through new filter. THEN filter to carb strait through return line on the leg of the T. Simple you just need quite a few gear drive clamps.
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Old 03-31-2018, 10:54 PM
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the problem of course is the fittings. either you end up with a mail and female bibs to make your rubber jumper to replace the canister with the inline plus your return line. then the filter ends up in a place you can't see it and it's is vary difficult to change.

that was why the blow it out from top to bottom and bottom to top. you hope you get the big pieces, trusting your in carb one to stop any small from going into the carb. a small right angle on the wire will help tear it up good.

the good news is no big chunks of rust fell out only small things. mostly dirt. so your tank is probity in good shape. use a clear filter in a place you can see it and if no chunks of rust show up don't mess with the tank.

you got the choke pull off working, now if you get fuel to the carb it might cure you problem. if it does that was all it was all along.

this is why you test before you do things. because you have the possibility of making a mistake swapping parts and the your now chasing two things.

the test this time would have been to open up the fuel line at the carburetor and have some one spin the engine while you hold the line in a jug. a good strong stream would indelicate you have plenty of fuel flow. weak and a problem from that point back not forward.
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Old 03-31-2018, 11:07 PM
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I will spend some time pulling stuff out of the old one to be extra sure i got everything. Run some water and air through it as well. Right now im only using the clear plastic filter. I am a bit concerned that vaporlock may rear its head with the return no connected, but im not running my ac either.

I will feel better once i clear out this old one.

Next time i should remove the power steering pump. Changing that filter without removing anything around it was a challenge, and painful.
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Old 03-31-2018, 11:16 PM
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this time of the year vapor lock will not be a problem. but let me warn you of one thing that is. when repairing a car there is nothing more permanent then a temporary fix!!
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:21 AM
Paul Steinberg Paul Steinberg is offline
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Don't use water to remove anything. Water and paper make paper mache, which will make it more difficult. If anything, put the metal filter in a warm oven (200 degrees) after you get all the gas out of it. This will dry the remaining moisture, and help to remove the paper inside of the filter. Just don't do it when your wife is around, or you will have more problems than just a clogged filter.
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Old 04-01-2018, 08:28 PM
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My 1988 Wix Filters catalog had this fuel filter already obsolete in 1988. It did still listed the Wix part number as 33047. That would make its NAPA Filters equivalent part number a 3047. Big A Filters part number would have been a 95047.
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Old 04-01-2018, 09:26 PM
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they killed it after 10 years. as I said my findings were it was the one year only. the intake on the 68 is only shared with the 69. the only two years they used the divorced choke and the heat stove in the intake. I have one of them if anyone needs one
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Old 04-01-2018, 10:16 PM
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The one that was on mine was a "Gard" brand filter. Never heard of it and google didnt turn any results. Thanks for the warning about the water, oven is a good idea, and not doing when my wife is around is an even better idea.

Im checking my new hoses every drive to make sure i dont have a leak. I got them pretty tight, but you can never be too sure. My little clear plastic filter had plastic ends, so i put about a 2 inch cutting of rubber hose between the metal line and the filter.

Drove it 45 minutes to Broken Arroe today and 45 back, ran great
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:43 PM
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"Gard Filters" used to be the NAPA Filters division of Wix. Wix dropped the "Gard Filters" name, probably around 1990 and it just became NAPA Filters. I went to work for the NAPA Filters Division of Wix Filters/DANA Corp. in 1992(?). Wix used to make all of NAPA Filters Gold & Silver lines of filtration products, 95% of which were manufactured in Gastonia, NC. I haven't kept track since leaving their employ and the break up of DANA Corp.

That is one old fuel filter!!
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