New fire extinguisher requirement

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John Royark JR

PCS Member
I asked about the new fire extinguisher requirement in a post on the other site in late January. I also asked on the yahoo site. I have also emailed a couple people that should have known the answer. I cannot believe that not one PCS member could answer this simple question, especially if they went to the International in Mount Laurel, as this requirement was in place then.
Since no one seems to know, I started going through the back issues of TPC. I did not have to go far, issue 128, second quarter 2008 page 4 had the answer. It says:
Previously, a 2 1/2 pound ABC fire extinguisher was the minimum to be accepted. WE have replaced the "2 1/2 pound" requirement with "a minimum of a 1A10BC rating"
Not sure what this means yet, can anyone help with that?
 
If you value your car, and no expense is too much, then I suggest that you purchase a Halon fire extinguisher. Halon fire extinguishers are safe, non-corrosive, leave no residue, effective on gas, electrical and common combustible fires. Many times, even though the fire extinguisher puts out the fire, the damage done by the extinguisher is much greater than the damage by the fire. If you have an electrical fire in your car, the first thing to do is to disconnect the positive battery cable. This means that you do this immediately, without concern for damage to the battery cables or battery itself. Once you remove the electrical supply, you eliminate any further damage to the wiring as a result of electrical shorts. If you have a Cole Hersee master disconnect switch, switching it to off, many times will do the same thing as disconnecting the cables themselves. Most engine fires are a result of defective power steering hoses that spray the hot engine exhaust manifold with power steering oil, and the heat igniting the oil. The other predominant cause is the carburetor float sticking causing raw gasoline to overflow the bowl vent, spilling the gasoline on the intake manifold, and then down onto the exhaust manifolds, where it ignites. Once a fire gets started under the hood, if the car has air conditioning, the A/C rubber hoses will be burned through, and the high pressure gas and oil inside these rubber hoses will act like a blow torch, igniting anything that is combustible.
Purchase here.........
or here........
or here........
or anywhere else you can find them. Worth having if you care to buy the very best for your car........

The 1A10BC is a standard multi purpose fire extinguisher that is available in most hardware or box stores. It is a dry chemical type of extinguisher, however, this isn't the best. The problem will always be that the person that is doing the inspection for the fire extinguisher might not realize that the Halon fire extinguisher specifications exceed the performance specifications of the 1A10BC multi purpose extinguisher. In this case, it might just be worth while to have the 1A10BC extinguisher on hand to quell the objection. The are about $25 - $35 depending on where you purchase them.

Multipurpose household fire extinguisher. Fights wood, paper, grease, oil, and electrical fires. Metal valve and handle allows every unit to be refilled. Features new easy-to-read pressure gauge. Bracket with strap for easy mounting. U.S. Coast Guard approved. UL rated 1-A; 10-B:C.

More information on fire extinguishers than you might want to read........

When to use (or not use) Dry Chemical Extinguishers? Dry chemical extinguishers can be quite corrosive to metals such as aluminum and are also potentially abrasive. ABC extinguishers are much more corrosive than BC extinguishers because the ammonium phosphate agent can undergo hydrolysis to form phosphoric acid and because the molten agent flows into minute cracks. For this reason, dry chemical ABC extinguishers are not recommended for use on aircraft or electronics such as computers, MRI scanners, and scientific instruments. Boeing has stated in a service letter "Dry chemical extinguishers can cause extensive corrosion damage to airplane structure, electrical systems, and electronic equipment...Dry chemical fire extinguishers should only be used for airplane firefighting if there are no other extinguishers available and there is imminent danger to property or personnel."
 
sorry I thought we covered that. but as Paul said a 2.5 lb ABC rated will meet the standard. in mt laurel some one decided we needed wheel chocks also. a pair of short 2x4 placed in front and behind one tire will do. the extinguisher is to be placed by the R front tire. using it for one of the wheel chocks is a no no
 
Paul brings up good points about the downside of dry chemical. Unfortunately Halon isn't the perfect answer either. Halon or CO2 will frequently snuff a fire but allow it to re-ignite as it does little to take away heat. If it is a small electrical fire or something you caught early it will work fine and not add to the mess. If the fire is fueled by underhood fluids or has built up significant heat you might need the dry chemical to keep it out. A good strategy would be to use Halon or CO2 first and switch to the ABC if that doesn't work.

I carried both types in my Lifeliner. I kept a 5lb dry chemical and a Halon behind the drivers seat and a 2.5lb mounted in the patient compartment.
 
Thanks.
Just checked the current ones in my cars, I have a 3A10BC, not the now required 1A10BC. So looks like I have to buy new ones:mad:
 
Since these are corrosive, I assume if you get it washed off right away, it will stop the corrosive effect, right?
The extinguishers I have say not to store above 120 degrees. Im sure my car gets hotter than that in the summer! I guess its ok, it hasnt blown up yet:eek:

Also mine are 5 pound
 
Also, keep in mind that, while there may be some damage from use of a dry chemical fire extinguisher, it's far less that would happen if you had a fire and no fire extinguisher at all!

Also, remember that the 1A10BC extinguisher is a minimum requirement, you can have something larger.
 
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