1970 cadillac rearend shaft seal

From GM parts catalog thru 1975 model year:

70-75 all rear wheel drive casr share the same differential pinion seal, GM P/N 404294

70-75 Commercial Chassis and Fleetwood 75 use the same axle seal, GM P/N 1493724 regular RWD cars used a different seal, GM P/N 408537

All have been discontinued by GM. Using my dealer parts locator, no dealer shows the axle seals. The pinion seal, P/N 404294 is shown by quite a few dealers as still being in their stock. Your local dealer can get you this information or PM me and I can get if for you.

Or if you rather, I can get the seal from one of them if necessary.
 
Replacing rearend shaft seal

NAPA has the shaft seal. P/N 19237 Manufactured by SKF. If you have never done one before, get help from some one who has. First and foremost, make sure your car is totally secure on proper jack stands that are rated for the weight you are putting on them!!! I cannot stress this enough!! remember, your coach weighs around 6000 pounds. the best way is to do the job on a drive on lift.

Shop manual says you need a special tool to do this job. it would be great,if you can find one. (almost impossible) I used a wide tipped prying tool,and took my time. avoid putting any scratches on the shaft or the inside of the rear end housing,as it may cause a leak. I used a piece of emery cloth to clean the in side of the housing where the seal fits. coat the inside of the housing with a light coat of gasket sealer. A tool is available to install the seal, but it can be done with a small block of wood (as I used). be patient, tapping the seal a little at a time until it is flush with the housing all the way around. did mine in June, and it has not leaked a drop. Happy motoring!!:biker:
 
You shouldn't be using a torque wrench on a item that has previously been torqued. The reason is that the torque that was originally used also set the crush nut. The better method is to index mark each component, and make sure that when it goes back together, that all the index marks are in the same place. That way, you don't run the risk of additional preload on the bearings or torquing the crush collar further. Differential gear alignment is a tedious thing to set the first time, and once set, you shouldn't be messing with it. I learned the indexing trick from an old time mechanic, after I did a pinion seal repair that caused the differential to fail a few thousand miles later. He taught me the correct procedures to do this type of repair.
 
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