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  #111  
Old 07-09-2018, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by John ED Renstrom View Post
If you get a replacement get the correct one. The one you have is not correct for your car.
Its not? I really thought it was correct. What do I need then?
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  #112  
Old 07-09-2018, 03:17 PM
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The stock one would have been externally regulated. Should be one wire going to the regulator and a gray clip with two wires plugged in. Check your book out. It will have pictures..
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  #113  
Old 07-09-2018, 05:18 PM
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The stock one would have been externally regulated. Should be one wire going to the regulator and a gray clip with two wires plugged in. Check your book out. It will have pictures..
I will do that, I do have an external regulator. I have kept it like it was before since I didnt know how else it would be setup. I will check the book and see if it helps
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  #114  
Old 07-09-2018, 07:22 PM
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All i found in the shop manual is that commercial chassis used a 55 amp generator. With that i looked up 68 cadillac alternators and that pointed me to this acdelco 55 amp

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ac...generator,2412

Is this correct?
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  #115  
Old 07-09-2018, 10:03 PM
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but first you will have to determinant just what someone else changed. we have see a zoomed out pictures or you engine bay yet only some up close things. here are a few pictures of the 86 I have up here for a few years. that is now down in Tx. the 68 was a smog pump engine. with the ault on the right just over the smog pump. they were wired with one hot wire going to the regulator and the tickler (hot with key on) wire with and ground in a harness clip. no other wires going to it. the charge wire would come from the regulator to the Pos terminal on the starter. then return the charge threw that cable. here a a couple of pictures I found of the factory lash up. now you need to find the numbers of your engine. it should be stamped on the front of the right head. if it matches the registration number of the car it is the original engine. if not you need to look it up to find the year of it. but your alternator should look something like this on the car.
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  #116  
Old 07-10-2018, 09:01 AM
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Before heading out to work this morning I took a few pictures. Several wide shots of the engine bay, some pictures with similar angles that you posted and one of the regulator and back of the alternator.

I know it was pointed out previously that the way my alternator is wired needs to be fixed as all of the contacts are all jammed on what I believe to be the batt bolt. At the time that I changed it I wasnt sure what went where so I put it how it was before. Now that I have a shop manual I am sure I can probably figure out where everything goes from there. Thing is I have no idea what any of the wires are at this point.
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  #117  
Old 07-10-2018, 10:06 AM
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Looks like a 68 engine. Just check the vin number the next time you are down there. That is a later model alternator. Not a big problem running one just the more splices you have the more trouble you get into. the more dangling plugs the more confusion sets in. The better way to wire it would be with the proper battery cable end or just down to the lug on the starter were the cable attaches. That plug by the old regulator. Did it go on the regulator?
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Last edited by John ED Renstrom; 07-10-2018 at 10:23 AM.
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  #118  
Old 07-10-2018, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John ED Renstrom View Post
Looks like a 68 engine. Just check the vin number the next time you are down there. That is a later model alternator. The reasion for all the splices. That three receiver plug. In the picture of the by passed regulator is the low speed resister for the blower wire harness. You should find the mate for it on the engine side of the AC box. One reasion you don't have a working blower.
Yeah that the new black plug is the one I replaced that used to be melted. Unfortunately replacing it didnt fix the blower so for now I have it unplugged since it doesnt work anyway
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Last edited by Blake Sherwin; 07-10-2018 at 10:11 AM. Reason: typo
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  #119  
Old 07-10-2018, 10:14 AM
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Also here is a better picture of what I found than RockAuto has.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-334-2.../dp/B000C9M40S

Based on the info the shop manual gave me this is what I wound up finding. I am going to buy an alternator tonight after work so I can be ready to roll by Friday. If I currently have the wrong one, maybe thats part of the reason it was ridiculously hard to install last time
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  #120  
Old 07-10-2018, 10:37 AM
Paul Steinberg Paul Steinberg is offline
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I wouldn't be changing anything at this point in time, since what you have installed is working. Clean up the wiring and make sure that it is the proper gauge of wire, and that the connections are clean and tight. Changing the alternator to the older type isn't going to gain you anything, other than a correct looking unit, which isn't important at this time. Should you someday decided that you are going to be doing a full restoration, that would be the time to address all these types of changes. Currently, it is more important to spend money on making the car reliable and safe to drive. Fix the wiring, and that will be one more item to check off as having been repaired properly.
The money that you save on the alternator, can go towards one day having the correct carburetor rebuilt, and reinstalled on your car.
One final thought, the reason that it was "ridiculously difficult to install the last time", is because of where it is located on the engine. With all the hoses that run above the alternator, any alternator change is going to be difficult. If your car didn't have air conditioning, it would have been a lot easier of a job. Just be happy that your car didn't have the 135 amp alternator. That one takes 2 people to change, because of the weight, and trying to shoe horn it into place. Once you have that one in place, then you have the additional wires to deal with. This is why I always recommend that you take a lot of pictures before removing any component. It will make the re-installation a lot easier when you know exactly where everything goes.
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