Window motor removal?

How do I remove and re-install an electric window motor with out chopping off a finger or shattering the drivers door glass on my 77 M-M? The window is in the up position and I have power at the switch and at the motor connection. But when I put power to the switch the window will not go down and makes no noise and the regulator is not in a bind. So I'm pretty sure the motor has shot craps! And a re-maned ain't cheap eather, I nearly fell outta my chair when I seen the price, $89.00! I've done the old style crank type regulators but not a electric setup before. Any help will be helpful!

You need to look in the Fisher Body service manual in section 5. It requires drilling three 3/4" holes in the door panel to lock the mechanism before the window regulator motor is removed. Unless you have a very good health insurance plan, I wouldn't attempt this without the manual. I would also write the check for the health insurance deductible before doing this procedure. If anything goes wrong, you will have a very large bandage on your hand for months...
Now that I have throughly intimidated you, it really isn't that hard to do when you have the diagram and instructions in front of you. The book shows different locations for each body style, and there are multiple different drawings showing dimensions. Here are "generic" pictures of what needs to be done... DO NOT use these drawings for your car!!!
The motors are the same for many years, and I believe that the front and rear are both the same. They only change from Right and Left. I would try wrapping on the door with a rubber mallet while pushing the window button in the downward direction. Sometimes this will jar the motor loose, and it will work again without any further problem.. You can also put the rubber mallet under the front seat in case the motor gets stuck again...

Got it working again! After reading the post and talking to Paul went out to the coach and did the rubber mallet thing that he said and that worked! Three good swift rapps and running the window up and down about 20 times got it working smooth again!!! And I still have four fingers, two thumbs and a intact peice of drivers door glass!!!! THANKS!!!

Jeremy D. Ledford said:

Got it working again! After reading the post and talking to Paul went out to the coach and did the rubber mallet thing that he said and that worked! Three good swift rapps and running the window up and down about 20 times got it working smooth again!!! And I still have four fingers, two thumbs and a intact peice of drivers door glass!!!! THANKS!!!

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That's great, now I can go back to sleep.

Glad it worked out but...

Glad that all worked out well...but where are your other 4 fingers?

Richard called to say that he was going to drive up from Florida and stand by while you removed the motor, so he could use the lights and siren to take you to the hospital... Also mentioned that you were slow as a turtle fixing things, so there was no rush... Just remember... don't force it........ get a bigger hammer...

Paul Steinberg said:

Richard called to say that he was going to drive up from Florida and stand by while you removed the motor, so he could use the lights and siren to take you to the hospital... Also mentioned that you were slow as a turtle fixing things, so there was no rush... Just remember... don't force it........ get a bigger hammer...

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Hey, Richard, drive up this weekend. If Jeremy doesn't have to work, Jeremy, Jason (Ligon) and myself are coming down to bring Milly home!

Hey Jerremy, I am missing a claw hammer, are you sure you didn't use one your door? The motor may work but the body work will be next project!

9 times of oot 10 the problem is a poor connection at the switch. or the switch is just not making contact. you can get the power threw it but not the amps necessary to make the motor work. if you had the trim pad off then be sure a lube up everything before you put it back on. get the gear and the end busing to. they will go dry and cause it to stick. if you think your switch may be bad, just pull the harness off the bottom and jump the wires there. one power, one up, on down. if you can get the window to work with out sticking by jumping it replace the switch or use Paul's big hammer trick on it to reposition the contacts. a lot of times that will do it.

LeeAnn Boston said:

Hey, Richard, drive up this weekend. If Jeremy doesn't have to work, Jeremy, Jason (Ligon) and myself are coming down to bring Milly home!

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Driving straight through to Michigan to get my gas pumps. Buying a second one while up there. I wish I could swing by just to see you LeeAnn.

Bill Leverett said:

Glad that all worked out well...but where are your other 4 fingers?

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That's right Bill! Shoulda been 8 fingers left instead of four! Was just excited to have the thing working again and not having to change out the motor!

John ED Renstrom said:

9 times of oot 10 the problem is a poor connection at the switch. or the switch is just not making contact. you can get the power threw it but not the amps necessary to make the motor work. if you had the trim pad off then be sure a lube up everything before you put it back on. get the gear and the end busing to. they will go dry and cause it to stick. if you think your switch may be bad, just pull the harness off the bottom and jump the wires there. one power, one up, on down. if you can get the window to work with out sticking by jumping it replace the switch or use Paul's big hammer trick on it to reposition the contacts. a lot of times that will do it.

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The first thing I did was check all my connections and all was good and had power there! Then did the hammer repair and all was well! Going to lube up the tracks and linkages tonight after I make a run to town to get the grease I need for the regulator. So far it's still working good with no
problems!

I have found you can use the new all purpose gun grease- chassis lube right out of the tube and get better results then any of the expensive stuff in small tubes or spray cans. a acid bush will work it into the tight spots and push out the old from the slides. brush some on the gear teeth and force some into the junction were the moter meets. smear it around the pivot points. then run the glass up and down a few times. wipe off any extra. at a buck a tube it lasts a long time lubs well and keeps all the water out. when your in there don't forget to do the door latch to.