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  #1  
Old 12-25-2011, 07:49 PM
Doug Watson Doug Watson is offline
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Default Need help with 5 questions

Please help with the mysteries

1. Where and how do I fish out the wires for rear passenger door switch?
2. Where and how do I fish out the wires for the back door lower switch? Where do they originate and what would the switch do? The upper switch is back dome light.
3. The scoop ait goes into this box for back heater. It is held with 3 screws underneath that I removed, but I can't get it unstuck from car. I loosened up the the control vent and works good, how do I adjust the cable?
4. This is the speaker cover? by driver foot, kick plate covers it. Why is the a bracket welded to it with holes in it?
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Old 12-25-2011, 08:06 PM
Paul Steinberg Paul Steinberg is offline
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Question 1...

I would use a coat hanger that one end has a hook bent into it, with the hooked end being about 1" long. Use a bright light to locate the wires, and then using the hook, snare them and pull them toward the opening.



Same for question 2...

The wires for lights usually are ground wires, and when the connection is made, the wires are grounded to the body through the switch. Where they originate is difficult to say, since only the person that wired the car originally would know what path they take from the light fixture to the door jam.



Question 3...

The scoop might be stuck to the body or you might be missing one of the attaching screws or nuts. The cable is adjusted by loosening the clamp and moving the outer sheath of the cable and retightening.



Question 4...

This cover is usually for the vent that isn't used when you have air conditioning. The bracket on that cover might be for some accessory that would mount to it, or it might be to hold the kick panel to the side of the cowl.

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  #3  
Old 12-25-2011, 11:41 PM
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got most of them tight. the wires come down from the right side remove the top over the wheel well to retrieve them. they are hot. one turns on only the vary rear dome the other is the back up lights. at least on a 63 ambulance they work that way. they will go threw the hinge pocket from the top if I'm remembering right.

the round end of the scoop has the the defrost type hose on it that goes up to the air scoop. the flapper in there opens and closed with the cable. air would enter threw the hose if the flapper is open it will come out the bottom of the box and into the wheel well then out the front vent by ram effect as the car went down the road. remove the cable see if the flapper works. lube the cable and the gear opener and test it before reassembly. if the control knob will move the cable in and out with it off the flapper. then put the knob in the close position and put it back on the flapper. then push the flapper closed and tighten the clamp on the outer housing. that one you loosened to remove the cable in the first place. then test it should open as you rotate the knob. the cable will not be tight between the clamp and the control but lays any old which way as it gets there. the box will be stuck down with sealer and the screws. no need to get it out to adjust the cable

the holes on the fresh air vent cover for the ac cars would be for the kick panel to screw to I know I have a few of the vent here but can't lay my hand right on it. there mostly in the tear down side http://www.dropshots.com/jer57747#al...r%20high%20top

the 63 has one speaker if it has a radio its located in center of the crash pad between the defroster vents.
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:50 AM
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I look and I can't find a pictures for reference in either Jim's 66 or Brendon's 63 for the vent but I did find these two. the wires for the back up lights your looking for have 2 sets of wire on each terminal. don't forget the wire for the license plate lights . it gos in threw a hole in the top hing box and snakes along the upper hing into the door that way. it's black
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Old 12-26-2011, 02:03 AM
Paul Steinberg Paul Steinberg is offline
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Ed brings interesting information to the thread that I hadn't considered until he posted that the wires are hot. In the case of the 1963 and your 1964, we are both correct, because there are two different types of switching being done. I was thinking of the way that GM would wire the dome lights, where there is a hot wire going to the dome lights at all times, and the other side of the dome light (ground) is carried with a white wire to the door jam switches. In many cases, where the body builder was modifying the circuitry of the automobile manufacturer, such as turning on back up lights, they would have a separate hot lead going to a door jam switch, and then there would be a wire from that switch that was tied into the factory wiring that supplied the power to the back up lighting circuit. Many times, they would also incorporate the rear loading light on the roof into this circuit, so both the back up lights and the rear loading lights would both come on.
Disconnect the battery from the cars wiring before you start retrieving the wires. Once you have the wires out of the holes, and are certain that they are not touching any metal parts of the car, hook up the battery. Then touch the end of the wire with a 12 volt electrical test light, and see if it illuminates. If it does, then the wire is considered "hot". If it doesn't, then the wire is neutral (ground).
If you have multiple wires, and don't know where they belong, you can find out by using a 12 volt battery at the back of the car. Take a wire from the negative terminal of the battery, and connect it to a bare section of metal on the car. The take a wire from the positive terminal and touch it to each of the wires, one at a time. If a light comes on, then you know that one end of the wire that you touched with the 12 volts is the beginning of the wire, and that where it terminates at the light, is the other end of the wire. If nothing illuminates, then it is safe to say that is a feeder (hot lead) from the front of the car. This wire should begin at one of the fuse blocks, and will terminate at one terminal of the switch. The wire from the light goes on the other end of the switch. I suggest that you put some electrical tape on the bared ends of the wire where they connect to the switch. This will save you lots of aggravation and blown fuses.
If you have additional questions, or need clarification on any of the above, please let me know.
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Old 12-26-2011, 01:32 PM
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a small 10 amp battery charger works for a power source also. put the neg clamp on a good ground and use a ice pick with the positive to turn things on. the advantage is if you go the wrong way and ground it the resulting arch is a lot less then a 900 amp battery. motors will turn a little slow but you can usual figure out things.
in the case of this 63 ambulance there are 5 lights in back each has it's own switch. the far back one comes on with the rear door jam. the center on with the toggle on the control panel. pt spot with a switch on the housing. the front over head with a toggle on the master panel. last but not least the door jam on the right center door turns on the foot well. nothing is turned on by opening the left center door. now I did find out that superior used two different switches on this car. one ending in 69 and one in 70. the 70 closes when the plunger is let up the 69 when the plunges is pushed in. 70 is the light switch the 69 puts power to the safety locks for the center doors. I have not as of yet determined how superior supplied the power to the door safety locks. but if you put power to that wire and close the 69 switch the locks lock. this has been a vary strange car to get back together. the switching hot not ground for the dome lights we find in a lot of the cars the separate switch for each light we don't
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Old 12-26-2011, 04:04 PM
Doug Watson Doug Watson is offline
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Default Plunger too deep for pillar

This plunger is too deep and not enough room for wires. I notice pictures that there is a 9270 plunger in that location. I have 3 9270's, 2 for front doors, 1 for rear passenger, nothing for rear driver and 2 plastic plungers for rear door. I still can't find wires for second plunger for rear door that would turn back-up lights on. What am I missing?
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Old 12-27-2011, 12:27 AM
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with out being able to see what is going on I'm guessing your missing the spacers for the jam switch. the rear plastic ones would have been replacements by someone. they may have just had the rear one filing a hole they lost the plug out of. I still say the hardest part of one of these cars is fixing what some one else cobbled together. the way to test the spacing on the jam switch is to slip some washers under the plate till it clears the wires and see how the door closes. if your hinged on the B pillar then it most likly has quite a space from the jam to the door frame. now then this out fit here has jam switches that are close to the Cole hersee ones used by superior. not exact but close. http://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx...4-e9ee26a39c3d
the cole Hersee spaces look like this. no I don't have any spairs but they can be made from about anything you can cut. it's these kind of little stuff that is impossable to drop down and buy, that the junkk yards is the only source.
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Old 12-27-2011, 12:38 AM
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if you can't find the wire for the back up lights ad you want them to come on with the door open then all you need is a hot wire to one side of the empty switch and the other side going out spliced in to the back up lights. or take the switch out and put a plug into the hole. if superior did not use one that's all they did. at the point your at it's your option now.
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