The Rim Reaper - 1953 Pontiac Hearse by Barnette

To drop the drag link and get room to get oil pan down remove two bolts holding idler arm on on passenger side. Regarding the stuck valves shoot PT blaster WD-40 in past valve and let soak for several days resquirt daily. DO NOT pry or pound on valve you will bend it easy does it you are on the right track getting manifolds out of the way.
 
Well whoally Peter Pat and Paul I had better mind my P's and keep coming with my Q's, LoL.

Thank you for the top on the idler arm, as for the valves I drizzled some penetrating lubricant in there today, and will do again tomorrow. I am also going to go on the hunt for MMO as there are some people reporting luck finding it in Canada in the last year. I will ring it around my pistons and spin the fan a few dozen times twice per day while I work on getting the valves cleaned up, if I can find it that is, if not I will figure out what the best stuff I can get here is, I keep hearing Seafoam, but I don't want to use it against the manufacturers directions, and will fire it through the system the proper way when it is running.
 
Penetrating lubricant

Well whoally Peter Pat and Paul I had better mind my P's and keep coming with my Q's, LoL.

Thank you for the top on the idler arm, as for the valves I drizzled some penetrating lubricant in there today, and will do again tomorrow. I am also going to go on the hunt for MMO as there are some people reporting luck finding it in Canada in the last year. I will ring it around my pistons and spin the fan a few dozen times twice per day while I work on getting the valves cleaned up, if I can find it that is, if not I will figure out what the best stuff I can get here is, I keep hearing Seafoam, but I don't want to use it against the manufacturers directions, and will fire it through the system the proper way when it is running.

I have had good luck with this.
 

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why drop the oil pan? the service manual says to do this ever so often to clean out the sump. but if the goal is to attempt to start it, stop taking it apart any more then you have to to free the valves. put a battery in it and spin it over with the starter. just don't crank for over 30 seconds at a time. you can clean the junk out latter by simply adding a quart of ATF and driving it around . then change the oil.
 
Yes I think you may be right Ed, I wont bother with the pan until re-build time, as Pontiac called for, LoL.

I am still unsure as to whether I should remove the in-line oil filter and get bolts to plug the holes?

As for the Kroil, thank you Daniel. I search where I could get it and it came up with Canadian Tire advertising PB Blaster, which has also been recommended to me. I know for sure that I can get to CanTire, get the PB Blaster, and be back to work within my 1/2 hour lunch break tomorrow, so that is what I will do. Can I use it around my pistons or should I not bother with them? Only piston 5 doesn't have a shiny, lubed bore, I guess I do need to get something in there for the rings if they are not set.

I must go with Ed's recommendation of FOLLOWING MY GOALS, as milestone 2 is to drive the car, not re-build the engine, that may be the next milestone though, I will see when I take it for a drive...

THANX ED for keeping me REAL!
 
The oil filter could very well have been a Pontiac accessory item, since I know that Chevrolet offered a bolt on accessory oil filter for there 6 cylinder cars. If it is on the car, just clean out the canister, install a new filter, and use it. The new filter will also come with the top gasket.
 
mine is not handy right no so I can't go look at weather they spliced a line for it or not I would guess thats is what they did. it was a aftermarket on the Pontiac. readily available at the parts stores. used on most of the cars in that time frame. make no difference us it or not. but unless I knew for sure I would not block off the lines but run a tube between the ports. you don't want to starve something of oil.
I understand the temptation to take it apart. but right now set a goal. see if you can get it running. any of the the penetrating oils will work straight kerosene will be as effective a cleaner un sticker as anything. remember it's going into the oil pan whatever you use. so if your get it started run it until it's warm and change the oil is the next step of seeing if it will free up. pulling or pounding on the valve is not good but a rotating motion by hand might help.

some wake up hard some do it easy. just don't have 6 things torn apart at the same time. try to work one system at a time. those pros can take it all apart and bask to gather and it works me it do everything twice. once to fix the problem and once to fix what I messed up.
 
So I got some good penetrating oil and sprayed it down into all the valves and around the pistons. I noticed quite a few valves with rust on the stems, so I gave em all a good squirt. I now only have 1 valve not making full motion, I won't even start to open the valve side until I am sure it won't un stick I guess.

I did try to spin it with my hand today, but not really too hard, it didn't move. The other valves can be spun, so I am assuming there is a bit more rust in that one than the others...

I also wanted to see a bit of life out of the beast, so I hooked up the battery and turned on the lights. It was too light out for a good picture and I'm not going back out there now, but both headlights shine bright!

I could use a bit of guidance on flushing the coolant system so that there's no antifreeze in case of leaks when I fire it up. It seems everything needs to be together and running to do a true flush, but I just need to at least wash out any coolant that's in the system before I run it.
 
By George I think I've got it!

I will re - attach the head on the engine, and run a water filtration system through the entire system, with filter of course. For this I will use an old fish tank water filter that I have, I'm not concerned about getting coolant in it, I will use it only for rad flushing from now on...
 
goals remember your goals. free the valve up get it back together see if it runs. just put water and enough antifreeze so you don't get caught with a cold snap and
destroy what you have . if it runs Ok then you can do all the rest of the things you want. but why waste time and money if you're going to end up pulling it and overhauling it. if it runs there is a sure fired method of cleaning the block and cooling system if it doesn't it's not necessary.

but nice to hear you making progress on the valves. it will not hurt to spin it over with the starter. having someone spray the stems as the valves work would help. and the extra speed with the lube on top of the pistons will help free up the rings. it will take time to get that last one to move.
 
I just sat and read through this. It's all very fascinating, especially considering that you and I have something in common - by your own admission, you aren't a mechanic. I work in auto parts, but I am no mechanic either. I maintain my cars to the best of my ability, but I've always taken the big jobs to the pros. I'm glad you are brave enough to tackle this in your own yard - it's very inspiring to me! I'll be keeping up with your progress. I can't wait to hear that she started up and purred like a kitten! Even if it takes a couple tries, and it's reasonable to assume it might. Either way, whether it starts right up or requires tweaking, this is gonna be great to see unfold!
 
Thank you Wesley, and believe me, I would not be trying any of this stuff on any modern vehicle, these old beasts are obviously more than I understand as of yet, but they are basic and I have learned more about how a vehicle works in the last 2 weeks than I had in my entire 16 years of steady driving...

I am ecstatic that there is enough knowledge here and on other boards to helps guys like you and I do this kind of stuff. I have actually never been a car guy. My Dad and Grampa both owned auto yards, and I spent every summer of my childhood visiting them, but I was never one to start a mechanical project. Kinda odd really...

About hearing it start up an purr like a kitty, I am getting quite excited to do it. I cranked the engine today with the head off, and the only sound I heard was coming from the starter and what I can assume is the generator underneath.

Watch "Rim Reaper - first crank - 03/25/2015" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/Knq5zL7ozYQ

I haven't really read into it yet, but I know I have to lubricate the generator. Time for some research, any input on what to do about this or where exactly to hook up my jerry can to the fuel system or what my next step would be?
 
oil cups on either end 2 drops of a none detergent oil. do not over oil. and same for the distributor on this one. I have my fingers crossed she runs.
 
I read that 2 stroke and lawnmower oil are non - detergent, would either of these be fine?

Also, should I oil and fire right away to get the oil dispersed throughout the unit?

I just looked at the manual and it says to "Fill reservoirs with engine oil" Is 2 drops really enough?
 
yes. if you use a detergent il it washes out the bushing and it will ware very fast. teh motors manual is really helpful on all this stuff. as is the owners manual. did you check the glove box for it? this one may still have it. if it does maybe I can get a copy of it some time.
 
Yes I have the owners manual and it is in great shape and also has the original Pontiac Service Warranty INCLUDING both the 1000 mile and 2000 mile (I think that was the miles) free service coupons attached to it. Also each year of registration certificates and the receipt for when it got new tires I think.

I had the book last month, need to re - track it down...
 
good finds it sounded lit your had a few enough owners to still have it. mine was passed around enough that all that stuff is long gone.
 
Pretty windy today, didn't want to open the block so I decided to poke around a bit elsewhere.

I found the hose my dad disconnected to run off a Jerry can 15 years ago, one step closer...

The car needs new tires, got quoted $135/each, not bad, but bottom of the barrel tires. Still gotta be better quality than the 60's. I took off one rim to look at the brakes, it appears to me they might be alright and possibly the hydraulics system needs attention, but I don't know so I have attached some pictures for your viewing. There is a before and after cleaning pic, as well as one of the amount of pad left.

Any opinions?
 

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Brake linings and springs look very good. Two ways to go with hydralic parts. Wheel cylinders should be available through NAPA or any good auto parts store same goes for master cylinder. You can go the cheap route by buying rebuilding kits for all and a brake cylinder hone. Check the two front and one rear brake hoses for rot or cracks replace as needed again they are easy to get. Most mechanical parts for 53 Pontiacs are easy to find and reasonably priced. Kanter Auto Products in New Jersey sells complete kits if you want to go that way. Check their on line catalog. Looks like you are making fine progress.
 
The linings look new, however, in the top picture, the return springs are attached, and in the second picture, it looks like you use a plier to straighten the hook end to remove the spring. This has effectively destroyed the integrity of the springs and they are going to need to be replaced. Problem is that today, finding springs with the proper tension is getting a lot more difficult, with most replacement parts coming from the other side of the world. The quality just isn't there. To remove the return springs, there is a specific tool, and one end of the tool removes the spring, and the other end will reinstall the spring. You will need to rebuild the wheel cylinders, or replace them, depending on there condition once you take them apart. Also, the rubber hoses will also need to be replaced, and even possibly the metal brake lines, depending on condition. Metal brake lines rust from the inside out when a car sits for a long time. Also, the metal fitting that attaches the brake line to the rear wheel cylinders might be frozen to the metal brake line itself. There is also a special tool for removing and reinstalling the brake line nuts. It is called a tubing wrench, or a flare wrench. You will only need one size in all probability, so you would be better off buying a quality one, such as a Snap On or Mac, since the cheap brands tend to spread under pressure.
When it comes time to clean up the rest of the brake assemblies, spray them with water, the using a cheap bristle paint brush and dish washing liquid, scrub everything till it is clean. Then rinse well with water. Your lungs will appreciate it 20 or 30 years from now, if you don't fill them with asbestos now.
In the future, if you are not certain how to take something apart, ask first, and you will get the help you need. If not, you are destined to do a lot of unnecessary damage to rare and difficult parts to replace.
 
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