Penetrating Oils

Paul Steinberg

Paul Steinberg

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A study done by Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue looked at different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. If the study was scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew works best!
Here's the summary of the test results:

Penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
 
I don't see a way they could have done it scientifically due to the fact that no two bolts stick exactly the same way.. case in point all my broken exhaust manifold bolts LOL :(
 
Removing exhaust manifold bolts is more an art than a mechanical function. I rarely if ever break a bolt removing it, but then I do spend a lot of time getting the bolt to move by using techniques that I have learned over the years from other master mechanics. Today, the average mechanic, or technician, as they prefer to be called never learned the methods that were used long before they were old enough to hold a wrench in their hands. For that reason, when these people work on an older cars there methods are more likely to result in broken bolts. Some people think that the way to get a bolt loose is to use an impact wrench, when the only thing that a impact wrench is guaranteed to do is break the bolt. Unfortunately, these methods are not easily put into words, and you have to see them performed to learn how to implement them properly.
All too often today, the younger mechanic thinks that they know all that there is to know, and they don't want to listen to the old curmudgeon that has honed this craft with years of experience. I know of one young person that was ready to spend a lot of money to have his engine rebuilt, until this old curmudgeon bullied and badgered him into listening to common sense and to do a few basic checks before taking the plunge of an expensive rebuild. Today, that engine is humming along like a new engine and the total cost of repair was probably under $20. He shall go nameless to protect his reputation as a shade tree mechanic. :071:
 
I will trade mechanical work for dental work... My dog needs two canine teeth capped. The dummy used to bite on rocks and knocked the tops of them off. :4_11_9:
 
haha come teach/save me oh great one :p


Paul Steinberg said:
Removing exhaust manifold bolts is more an art than a mechanical function. I rarely if ever break a bolt removing it, but then I do spend a lot of time getting the bolt to move by using techniques that I have learned over the years from other master mechanics. Today, the average mechanic, or technician, as they prefer to be called never learned the methods that were used long before they were old enough to hold a wrench in their hands. For that reason, when these people work on an older cars there methods are more likely to result in broken bolts. Some people think that the way to get a bolt loose is to use an impact wrench, when the only thing that a impact wrench is guaranteed to do is break the bolt. Unfortunately, these methods are not easily put into words, and you have to see them performed to learn how to implement them properly.
All too often today, the younger mechanic thinks that they know all that there is to know, and they don't want to listen to the old curmudgeon that has honed this craft with years of experience. I know of one young person that was ready to spend a lot of money to have his engine rebuilt, until this old curmudgeon bullied and badgered him into listening to common sense and to do a few basic checks before taking the plunge of an expensive rebuild. Today, that engine is humming along like a new engine and the total cost of repair was probably under $20. He shall go nameless to protect his reputation as a shade tree mechanic. :071:
Click to expand...
 
Todd Merrifield said:
Do you know the ratio of ATF to acetone? Is it 50/50? This seems like it could be extremely helpful...I'd like to try it out.
Click to expand...

You are correct on the 50/50 mixture.. Just don't put it into a plastic container, and make sure that the mixture doesn't come in contact with any painted surfaces.
 
Paul Steinberg said:
You are correct on the 50/50 mixture.. Just don't put it into a plastic container, and make sure that the mixture doesn't come in contact with any painted surfaces.
Click to expand...

I'll take your word for it, but may I ask why no plastic, since both fluids themselves come in plastic containers (at least nail polish remover does, which contains acetone).
 
Pure acetone that you purchase at a paint store comes in a metal container, and based on my experience, it will burn through most plastics. The plastic bottles that the nail polish remover comes in is a special plastic that is resistant to the acetone inside. Also, I believe that nail polish remover is not as "pure" as the acetone that is sold in gallon form. I will say that it will remove every bit of oil from your hands if it comes in contact with the skin. It doesn't burn like an acid, but it does dry out the skin. If you use it to remove paint over spray from chrome, just the fumes from it will cause the paint near the chrome to shrivel.
 
I've got an old, from the 1960's if I had to guess gallon can of Kroil oil. Probably still a 1/2 gallon left in that ole can but every time I've used it I've had good results! But with it being made back in the 1960's who knows what is in it!:4_11_9::boom:
 
past lives

Some of you people seem to know way too much about nail polish. Are these memories from a past life?
And while we are here, ED, will the urine smell be gone from Brendan's coach by the time he gets it back.
Jeremy, that old kriol you have is probaly fine as long as you keep it closed when not in use.
Mike
 
Ron,

That's just wrong. :puking:


There is a recipe out on the net for a solution called Ed's Red. It's a mix of acetone, ATF, lanolin, and a few other ingredients. It's meant to be a bore cleaner for firearms, but works well as a penetrating oil.
 
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