Constant clicking under coach area while off

Parked my 68 cadillac last night amd noticed a clicking noise in the back aftet it was off. I figured it would stop in a bit. Came out the next morning and its still making the noise.

I checked the heater knobs in the back and no luck there. Not sure what this is. This ring a bell to anyone?
 
Time to replace the key cylinder. Don't try to replace it yourself, or you will be buying a new steering column. It is a job for someone with experience and proper tools to do the job. Just make sure that you have the new key cylinder keyed to match the rest of the car, before the key cylinder is installed.
 
68 still has the switch in the dash. 69 is the first column mounted switch. That being said there are no longer and new switches for the 68. That was the problem with the one I had. But you only make the take the key out in the auxiliary position mistake once.

But the clicking noise in the rear may be either the heater or Ac motor. Check to see if all the switches by the attendant seat are off. Superior may have a master switch on the dash also.
 
The clicking might have been an electric fuel pump.
To remove the ignition switch cylinder on your car, straighten a paper clip, and then put the key into the cylinder. On the face of the cylinder, you will see a small hole. Insert the paper clip into this hole, after you turn the key to the accessory position, and give the paper clip a gentle push to depress the button behind that hole, while turning the key cylinder further to the left. This will remove the key cylinder. Then take the cylinder and key to your local locksmith, and have new tumblers installed in the cylinder. This should fix your problem. On the cylinder side, you will usually find a 4 digit, or combination of digits and letters code, that will be the key number. The locksmith will use this code to make you a new key, and to install new tumblers. I would record this code, where you won't loose it, and also have a few additional keys cut by number. Then when you get home with the repaired cylinder, you insert the cylinder in approximately the same angle that it was removed with the key inserted into the cylinder, and turn the key to the right. This will lock the cylinder into the ignition switch, and you will not have any more problems like the one you just experienced.
If your cylinder doesn't have a key code on it, then the locksmith may or may not be able to put new tumblers into the lock cylinder, depending on how worn your key is. If this is the case, then you will need to remove a door lock cylinder to get the code. If you get to the point where this becomes necessary, I or John can give you instructions on how to do this next step. Hopefully, you will luck out, and there will be a number.
One last thing, disconnect the battery positive terminal before you remove the key cylinder, so you don't run the battery down a second time. The locksmith may do the work while you wait, or he might say to come back a day or two later, depending on how busy he is. Changing tumblers isn't a difficult job for the locksmith, only time consuming to look up the code, cut the key, and do the cylinder work. I would say no more than an hours work total. A really experienced locksmith could probably knock it out in a half hour.
 
Thanks for the information Paul. Before I jump on that im actually going to try to have a door key made. This car didnt come with door keys, only ignition. And theres a padlock on the back door (not sure why, no point in locking the back if the sides dont lock)
 
Door lock should remove by prying tab on backside of door by the lock. Lock will have key number stamped in it, Easy for key shop to make key. Ignition lock must have been changed as Ignition and door lock same key till 1975 when they changed it as too many cars being stolen. I could be wrong on the year memory not what it was might have been 1965.The thieves would buy a key machine and code book vice grip the lock out of a door. Go back to their car and key machine read key number on lock make key go back to car insert key in other door unlock put key in ignition drive away like they owned it.
 
on the coach the door key and the ignition key should be the same. they only way they are different is if some one changed the ignition. but the easiest one to get out is the back door. not a lot of junk in your way or to take off
 
on the coach the door key and the ignition key should be the same. they only way they are different is if some one changed the ignition. but the easiest one to get out is the back door. not a lot of junk in your way or to take off

Thanks for this, i was already nervous about messing uo the door panels. I will start with the back
 
Open front door if you do not find back easy. Look at the back of the door (part with latch on it you should see a black spring steel tab facing tward the inside that is what holds the door lock in. Pry the tab twards the rear it will come out then you can remove the lock. Key code should be stamped in lock
 
IIRC 1968's no longer had the lock cylinder code stamped on the door lock cylinder as part of the attempt to reduce auto theft. 1967's had the code on them though.
 
Its back in the shop again to fix a plethora of leaks, and look into hesitation when going uphill or pushing the throttle too hard. As soon as I get it back I will take out that cylinder and take it to a locksmith. He told me that if I can get him the cylinder he can make a key for it, but he doesnt do work on cars, so I cant just bring him the car.

Then eventually I will address the ignition
 
Big question did you try the switch key in at least two of the doors? There should be only one key for that car. But most have had the switch changed. Don't forget to let the man know it's a switch key for the. Doors not a door key. He would figure it out soon enough but it helps to have a clue.

For the rear door it remove the handle, lock knob,trim pad, the a small cover. In the shell. Then find the tab on the spring clip use a ply bar to slide it off . The lock should slide out. Can't remember if it a tab in the slot or a wire. Tab will fall out if it's a wire you will need to work it around the corners to slip it off.

Believe it or not the cheap set of door tools at harbor freight is a good set. The clip remover works better then the snap on one I leave in the drawer. the pad remover the same.

Go slow don't force things and if it's stuck find that screw you missed taking out.
 
I tried removing the cylinder from multiple doors over the weekend. Unfortunately those screws were locked too tight for me to move. I talked to a local locksmith and he said often times the glove box lock is the same as the door, so he recommended trying to remove the glove box cylinder. Going to try that during my lunch hour today.
 
Parked my 68 cadillac last night amd noticed a clicking noise in the back aftet it was off. I figured it would stop in a bit. Came out the next morning and its still making the noise.

I checked the heater knobs in the back and no luck there. Not sure what this is. This ring a bell to anyone?

Maybe you have a family of crickets that moved inside for the winter?
 
I tried removing the cylinder from multiple doors over the weekend. Unfortunately those screws were locked too tight for me to move. I talked to a local locksmith and he said often times the glove box lock is the same as the door, so he recommended trying to remove the glove box cylinder. Going to try that during my lunch hour today.

To take the lock out, you start by removing the inner door trim panel. It is held on by screws sometimes, and also clips that you need to pry loose. You will need to take all the inside door handles off first, including the top lock knob. You will find helpful hints in this video.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apWr3kEW9Qg[/ame]


Once you have the door panel off, look inside the door with a flashlight, and you will see a clip that needs to be pulled sideways to release the key lock assembly. Once you have that removed, the cylinder will be loose. Refer to this video.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hu0O2HAed-E[/ame]

I believe that the screws that you were attempting to remove, were the ones on the edge of the door, that hold the door latching mechanism to the door. Removing this isn't necessary.
 
I believe that the screws that you were attempting to remove, were the ones on the edge of the door, that hold the door latching mechanism to the door. Removing this isn't necessary.

Your right, thats what I was removing. the rear door trim has some water damage and is already detached on the side nearest the lock. I didnt see a panel under there which is why I was looking at the door screws.

The locksmith I visited today was nice enough to come out and look at the rear door with me and showed me what you are talking about, that theres a panel in the middle of the door, so I just need to remove more of that panel i guess.

I will take a look at these videos tonight. I will feel better once I can lock the hearse. My wife is worried some kids will get into it and vandalize the interior.
 
As it's not a standard car you will find the lock is stamped. But did you try the switch key in the lock? Normal car square key for the switch round key for glove box and door. On the commerical chassis its the switch key for the ignation and doors. I don't think I have ever seen a glove box key in a commerical chassis car.
 
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