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Richard Vyse
12-30-2016, 09:37 AM
Well as you know if you try to repair one thing something else needs attention too. While having the new A/C installed I decided to replace the upper "A" arm bushings. In doing so turns out my upper ball joints need replacing and the center drag link too.
I'm looking for the least expensive place to buy these items. I've searched eBay, Rock Auto, NAPA and prices range from $89 to over $200.

Thoughts?

Peter Grave
12-30-2016, 09:53 AM
A little less Kanter $87.00 each ( he is a long time friend and Packard owner) on line www.kanter.com or 1-800-526-1096. Interesting side bar when Fred Kanter started out selling Packard parts in the sixtys all events carrying parts were done with a 1948 Henney Packard hearse.

Richard Vyse
12-30-2016, 09:53 AM
A little less Kanter $87.00 each ( he is a long time friend and Packard owner) on line www.kanter.com or 1-800-526-1096. Interesting side bar when Fred Kanter started out selling Packard parts in the sixtys all events carrying parts were done with a 1948 Henney Packard hearse.

Thanks and will give them a look see.

Richard Vyse
01-03-2017, 07:40 AM
Thanks for the contact and have ordered new upper ball joints and center draglink for the Lifeliner.

Richard Vyse
01-03-2017, 09:47 AM
Peter, you information saved me a ton. NAPA wanted over $200 per ball joint plus huge amount for center drag link. PCS folks continue to assist, thanks!

John ED Renstrom
01-03-2017, 10:52 AM
You can take some of that money any go to rubber the right way and replace those torn up missing splash aprons.

Richard Vyse
01-03-2017, 11:16 AM
You can take some of that money any go to rubber the right way and replace those torn up missing splash aprons.

Doing those as well

Sandy Steinberg
01-03-2017, 04:10 PM
Might as well do the upper control arm bushings. They are another weak link in the front end. I know this because Paul told me so. Just passing the information on, since he is away on vacation.

Richard Vyse
01-03-2017, 04:20 PM
Might as well do the upper control arm bushings. They are another weak link in the front end. I know this because Paul told me so. Just passing the information on, since he is away on vacation.

Now that sounds like a Paul consideration... thank you Sandy for the information and believe doing those as well. :thumbsup:

Oh forgot, replacing front brake pads too. Geez what else can there be. And to top that off Terri and I took the motorhome to Georgia for a few days over the holiday and feels like the rear shocks are weak. Back end hangs out there a bit and it sort of wobbles down the road. I plan on putting heavy duty shocks on that baby.

Terry Lange
01-03-2017, 06:46 PM
Nice looking RV, Richard. If you have A LOT of spare time on your hands, which I know you don't, check out the "cheap handling fix" thread on IRV2.com. I think it is up to 297 pages by now, and has been going on for years. Depending on your RV's symptoms, there is probably a solution to your problem in there. I would hate to see you waste your money on a new set of shocks if the old ones were not the cause of whatever you are experiencing in the first place.

I also have a copy of a 6 page document titled "Motorhome Handling Problems & Solutions, a primer by Gary Brinck." It sums up a lot of the stuff found in the 297 pages. Let me know if you want me to e-mail it to you.

Peter Grave
01-03-2017, 08:52 PM
Upper Control arm inner bushings for sure a good idea they were bad when the cars were a couple of years old. One thing DO NOT tighten the small bolts in the ends of the arm that butt against the bushings. Install the arm get the car down off the jacks sitting level then reach inside the fender well and tighten the bolts. Not doing the above stresses the rubber bushings and they tear and fail.

Richard Vyse
01-04-2017, 07:14 AM
Nice looking RV, Richard. If you have A LOT of spare time on your hands, which I know you don't, check out the "cheap handling fix" thread on IRV2.com. I think it is up to 297 pages by now, and has been going on for years. Depending on your RV's symptoms, there is probably a solution to your problem in there. I would hate to see you waste your money on a new set of shocks if the old ones were not the cause of whatever you are experiencing in the first place.

I also have a copy of a 6 page document titled "Motorhome Handling Problems & Solutions, a primer by Gary Brinck." It sums up a lot of the stuff found in the 297 pages. Let me know if you want me to e-mail it to you.

I would love to see that and appreciate it Terry. As you say hate to replace something if not the issue. I noticed while driving this beast it tends to wobble right and left down the road not bad but certainly requires your complete attention while driving. Had a ball driving this through the old streets of St. Augustine during peak season with cars parked along side the road. These were two lane roads too!

Richard Vyse
01-04-2017, 11:48 AM
Nice looking RV, Richard. If you have A LOT of spare time on your hands, which I know you don't, check out the "cheap handling fix" thread on IRV2.com. I think it is up to 297 pages by now, and has been going on for years. Depending on your RV's symptoms, there is probably a solution to your problem in there. I would hate to see you waste your money on a new set of shocks if the old ones were not the cause of whatever you are experiencing in the first place.

I also have a copy of a 6 page document titled "Motorhome Handling Problems & Solutions, a primer by Gary Brinck." It sums up a lot of the stuff found in the 297 pages. Let me know if you want me to e-mail it to you.

I know this is not an RV forum but Terry's information has been very helpful. Turns out I may be able to change the mounting holes on the front and rear sway bar or get a more heavy duty one. People that have done this eliminated about 95% of the sway. I will check in to it.

Thanks Terry....

Richard Vyse
01-09-2017, 05:43 PM
Hey guys, no luck on the Kanter ball joints, or Rock Auto, or even NAPA. There has to be someone who's purchased these for our old cars somewhere. I got two from Kanter but not even close and their rep seems confused as to why they don't work.

Ideas? So far everyone I talked with is stumped.

Daniel Scully
01-09-2017, 06:43 PM
Hey guys, no luck on the Kanter ball joints, or Rock Auto, or even NAPA. There has to be someone who's purchased these for our old cars somewhere. I got two from Kanter but not even close and their rep seems confused as to why they don't work.

Ideas? So far everyone I talked with is stumped.

What is wrong with them?

Richard Vyse
01-10-2017, 07:31 AM
Here is a picture of my bj on the car and notice the top thick ring with the lube joint. Now here is a picture of the new one which has some sort of a plate which will not work.

Paul Steinberg
01-10-2017, 09:14 AM
The ball joint that you received is for the older commercial cars, like in the mid 1960's. Having said that, I checked and it is supposed to fit from 1961 through 1976. It is what I used on my 1969, and it worked fine. I suggest that you have the upper control arm cleaned of all the crud, and take some measurements. You might find that when you get all the crud off the upper control arm, and can clearly see how the old one is attached, that the one you have is correct for your car. The other choice if you don't want to clean the upper control arm is to order one from NAPA for the outrageous amount of money that you said they want, and see if what they supply is different.

Richard Vyse
01-10-2017, 09:15 AM
Just talked with Kanter and they searched 10 years up and 10 years down and cannot locate ball joints that come close to looking as to what is on my car. So freaking typical. My guy suspects these are some sort of welded mess done up by some idiot prior. Well were working on it.... More to come!

Any chance someone would be willing to snap a picture of the top of your Pro-Car ball joint from the same year or so....

John ED Renstrom
01-10-2017, 11:04 AM
Coming from the rust belt you can find all kinds of ways that repairs were made to keep one on the road. A picture of a ton of grease is not a lot of help. But as the jount you have in hand is to fit for the number of cars it listed. if you don't have that style of joint on your car someone has swaped a standard a arm . You only have two choices CC or standard. There might be a home made method of installation but they would have used the joint that fit your spindle.

Daniel Scully
01-10-2017, 11:46 AM
Just talked with Kanter and they searched 10 years up and 10 years down and cannot locate ball joints that come close to looking as to what is on my car. So freaking typical. My guy suspects these are some sort of welded mess done up by some idiot prior. Well were working on it.... More to come!

Any chance someone would be willing to snap a picture of the top of your Pro-Car ball joint from the same year or so....

The ball joints are welded from the factory to the a arm. The replacement ball joint with the plate keeps the ball joint from turning when the retaining ring is installed and tightened. Cut the weld from the ball and press it out. You have the correct parts . My understanding is Cadillac never supplied a arm parts just a complete assembly with ball joins and busing installed. .

Richard Vyse
01-13-2017, 07:32 AM
Thank you Daniel for the pictures. This certainly helped my mechanic understand how this needs to go together. Hard to grasp that my Lifeliner still has the original ball joints on it after all these years and 80,000 miles. Seems like they would need replacing after 30,000 miles after ram rodding through the streets of Cleveland. Wow!

Kurt Arends
01-13-2017, 08:53 AM
The ball joints are welded from the factory to the a arm. The replacement ball joint with the plate keeps the ball joint from turning when the retaining ring is installed and tightened. Cut the weld from the ball and press it out. You have the correct parts . My understanding is Cadillac never supplied a arm parts just a complete assembly with ball joins and busing installed. .

I love the photo of you parts runner Dan!!

Daniel Scully
01-13-2017, 12:47 PM
I love the photo of you parts runner Dan!!

Picked up a new parts runner , might be selling the old one.

Peter Grave
01-13-2017, 01:01 PM
You should give Kanters a call and say all OK.

Kurt Arends
01-13-2017, 01:38 PM
Glad to see that you made it home with the "Thing"!

Peter Grave
01-13-2017, 03:17 PM
I took it upon myself to email Fred Kanter and tell him all OK below is a copy paste of his reply should help all that are confused. The difficulty young mechanics have with the 61-76 uppers is that the originals are welded in and caddy only sold complete arms. Replacement joints have a D shaped plate and are stamped L & R and as they look different the mechanics can't understand. The joints have offset slots for the stud and the plates orient them for L & R


fred

Daniel Scully
01-13-2017, 04:03 PM
I took it upon myself to email Fred Kanter and tell him all OK below is a copy paste of his reply should help all that are confused. The difficulty young mechanics have with the 61-76 uppers is that the originals are welded in and caddy only sold complete arms. Replacement joints have a D shaped plate and are stamped L & R and as they look different the mechanics can't understand. The joints have offset slots for the stud and the plates orient them for L & R


fred

Some of the ones I have bought have a note in them explaining it ,but I guess not all them.

Richard Vyse
01-16-2017, 08:20 AM
Some of the ones I have bought have a note in them explaining it ,but I guess not all them.

I can see how this would throw someone off going from one design to something totally different. My guy will get it done and appreciate the help and especially the pictures. Joe says he will grind or cut out old ones and press in new ones. I'm sorry to say no notes.

Appreciate everyone's help!

Mike Barruzza
01-16-2017, 03:49 PM
While your at it change the brake hoses too!

Richard Vyse
01-16-2017, 04:16 PM
while your at it change the brake hoses too!

ughhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

Richard Vyse
01-25-2017, 07:58 AM
Well the front end is back together and doing fine. Just a "Thank you" to everyone's help and especially to Dan for the pictures of the ball joints installed. This really helped my mechanic. Should have the Lifeliner back by the weekend.