View Full Version : Correct Fender Welting ('56 Superior)

Tim Nawrocki
01-16-2016, 11:37 AM
Hello all,

Does anyone know the correct fender welting material to use for my '56 Superior, and if so, where I can buy it?

The stuff I peeled/scraped off my rear fenders was about 2" wide with no apparent bead, and looked like tar- or asphalt-coated cloth.

Most of the fender welting I've found commercially available is vinyl, an inch or so wide, with a 3/16" or 1/4" bead. Here's an example:


I want to keep the look as original as possible and maintain the correct gap between the fenders and body. From the outside, I remember that the welting looked a bit like twisted cloth or a rope seal.

If there's a modern/updated product that will keep a similar look and perform better (i.e. last longer), I'm open to that.

If I'm just plain over-thinking this, even by restoration standards, please let me know!

Thanks for your help!

Tim Nawrocki
01-16-2016, 11:53 AM


One possibility I've considered is that the welting used on my coach is just the 1" wide stuff, peeled open and with the bead/core removed.

John ED Renstrom
01-16-2016, 08:52 PM
as it was repaint threw it's life the bead would be sanded or cut off.

try rubber the right way you can check on line but if you call it's best. Kanter has that as does USA parts. Fisk automotive is another place. you may only be able to get the vinyl stuff.

Tim Nawrocki
01-17-2016, 02:13 PM
Thanks, John; I think she was in original paint, but I could be mistaken.

Does the bead ordinarily stick out proud of the gap between the body and fender?

I found this stuff, available in 2" width, marketed for Model A's to prevent squeaks between the frame and body:


It looks like a webbed, more so than layered, fabric like what I peeled off, but it might work just about the same...has anyone on here used something similar?

John ED Renstrom
01-17-2016, 10:40 PM
the bead would be higher then the body. this is not what you need. any one of the vendors out there McVays, caddy daddy. will have it or will know were you can get it. it is a natural trap when repainting and you will always get a run some were around it. the trick was to cut the bead off when preping it. the proper way was to loosen the fender and pull it out then replace it. but not everyone wanted to pay you to do that on a old car.

Tim Nawrocki
01-19-2016, 01:46 PM
Thanks again for sharing your expertise, John! Just to make sure, when you say...
this is not what you need.
you're referring to the Model A frame welting at the link I posted, correct?

And for a true, '56-straight-off-the-Superior-line-in-Lima look, I should have a bead showing outside the fender-to-body seam, right? If so, I should order something like this:


Paul Steinberg
01-19-2016, 04:44 PM
The fender welting from Caddy Daddy is $1.32 per foot, and you can purchase the same product from a Model A supplier (http://www.brattons.com/prodtype.asp?PT_ID=37&numRecordPosition=51&ph=&strKeywords=&&strSearchCriteria=) for $.75 per foot.

Tim Nawrocki
01-19-2016, 08:40 PM
Thanks, Paul! If this stuff would do the trick and look authentic, it would be tough to beat on price:


Not quite as wide, though.

Paul Steinberg
01-19-2016, 11:48 PM
Looks good to me...

John ED Renstrom
01-20-2016, 01:00 AM
remember you will need 5 of them. 4 to put on the car and one to practice on. check te depth of the bolt holes on your car. that will tell you which one you need. the flap should go at least half way threw the bolt holes to keep them one. one of them is 1 1/4 for 50 ft the other is 1 inch and for 25 ft.

to put them one. bolt the fender on the car, leaving a space that you can slide the welt in to . start at one end push it in and tape it to the body there to keep from moving it. go around your fender pushing it firmly were each bolt is. then remove the welt. there should be a mark on the edge were every bolt is. cut the flat in a upside down V. make a good one but leave a 1/4 inch under the bead. this will let the bead slide all the way in and not picker as you go around the fender. then slide it back in. make sure you fender is lined up with the body. front edge on the rear rear edge on the front and start there snug them up check your placement and tighten them down. remember it's only exciting for the first one.

Tim Nawrocki
01-20-2016, 08:25 PM
My painter measured the flange width for me:


Looks like the overall width is about 1 1/2", with the center of the bolt holes about 1/2" from the outside...so I think a couple rolls of the 1" wide cheap stuff will do it!