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Daniel Scully
01-18-2015, 11:01 PM
Hard to be live a 96 is almost 20 years old in my mind it is a 10 year old car, . Had a oil leak in the front ,hard to tell where it comes from due to the water pump/distributor configuration. Has 3 seals in the front cover after doing some research it seems the water pump drive seal usually leaks and that was the major leak. . Since I was in there I replaced all 3 seals and the cap and rotor and water pump. Reminds me of a old Ford flat head with the distributor down in the front.

John ED Renstrom
01-19-2015, 12:30 AM
better you then me . I get lost just changing a water pump on a small block chevy

Paul Steinberg
01-19-2015, 01:32 AM
What would the labor for a job like this cost at a Cadillac dealership? thanks

Daniel Scully
01-19-2015, 02:18 AM
better you then me . I get lost just changing a water pump on a small block chevy

I can do this , but body work I can barely hang a fender or door without getting ****ed at it.

What would the labor for a job like this cost at a Cadillac dealership? thanksI was curious about that also , I never called the local dealer to ask but saw some quotes online anywhere from $350-$800 labor plus parts.

Todd Merrifield
01-19-2015, 10:34 AM
At least you were proactive. That's one of the biggest, if not the biggest, problems with those cars, the water pump leaking all over and eventually ruining the Optispark distributor.

Bruce Biancalana
01-19-2015, 11:14 AM
Back when the 94, 95 and 96 Caprice 9c1 cars were current cars we would send them into the Chevrolet dealer for the same repairs. I remember bills coming in of 1300 to 1600 depending on whether the oil seals were replaced or not. At that time the dealer charged the police department 600+ alone for the Opti-spark (distributor) unit. The new water pump was close to 400. By the time you added labor, parts, and incidentals it was not cheap. Now days the parts cost has come down and the remanufactured/aftermarket parts now exist so it is not as costly.

Daniel Scully
01-19-2015, 01:32 PM
When ,These first came out you could only get the distributor as a whole assembly . Another suggestion I found was to replace the air bleed screw on top of the thermostat housing. When you bleed the system it almost always runs down on the distributor. You install a tee with a line and shutoff and you can bleed it into a bucket away from the cap and recover the coolant.

Jim Staruk
01-19-2015, 05:16 PM
At least you were proactive. That's one of the biggest, if not the biggest, problems with those cars, the water pump leaking all over and eventually ruining the Optispark distributor.

Would anyone recommend doing this on a non-leaking water pump at a certain mileage before it happens? Isn't the timing chain recommended to be changed at a certain mileage before it gives you problems?

Peter Grave
01-19-2015, 10:44 PM
I have had many LT-1 Cars mostly Caprice cop cars as I pointed out in an earlier post the weakest links in these cars are the water pump it goes bad and drips water on the Opti-Spark (distributer) and the Opti Spark is trash along with the water pump. The best PM we found was replace the water pump at about 80k or if any seapage is found at the weep hole in the pump. Also a good antifreeze (not coolant) and distilled water not tap or well water as the minerals present cause corrosion. Coolant is like light beer you are paying for water added to the strait product. Another issue popping up lately is fuel pump failure brought on by a failure to change the fuel filter at the proper intervals.

Pat Post
01-19-2015, 11:30 PM
What would the labor for a job like this cost at a Cadillac dealership? thanks

I can have you an exact number on Saturday. The distributor went out on mine today. Had to have it towed to the Cadillac dealer in Keene, NH just this evening. Long story.

John ED Renstrom
01-19-2015, 11:50 PM
I think I'll stay with the throttle body 350 I had in the 92 superior. I can with time do about anything to that one. at 18 to 22 mpg it was all I needed.

Pat Post
01-20-2015, 03:15 PM
Just got a call on my hearse. The Optispark is $748. With a few other things that need to be done, I'm in it $1375 so far.

Peter Grave
01-20-2015, 04:23 PM
I know you are stuck they gotcha but Ebay optispark start around $50.00 and don't get past $200.00. Makes me think I am going to buy a couple and carry in the six door and the Masterpiece. Like the Boy Scouts be prepared. Just like the AC compressor last I checked GM were over $775.00 you can find for about $250.00. The General is making us pay to drive this old stuff.

Daniel Scully
01-20-2015, 06:17 PM
Rock Auto ,Gives you ,lots of choices.The cap,rotor and water pump for my 96 was less than $200.00 shipped.

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All Vehicles > CADILLAC > 1994 > FLEETWOOD > 5.7L V8 > Ignition > Distributor
1994 CADILLAC FLEETWOOD 5.7L V8 : Ignition : Distributor Subscribe to RSS feed to be notified when new parts are added for this car Price Core Total Add to Cart
WORLD POWER SYSTEMS Part # DST1803 More Info Includes Cap and Rotor
Next Image
$79.99 $0.00 $79.99
CARDONE SELECT Part # 841833 More Info {#1103916, 1104032} (Electronic); Ignition Control Module Not Included; With Wiring Harness One of our most popular parts
Harness w/2 guides (tabs) inside the connector.; Supplied w/Cap, Rotor and Harness

$113.79 $0.00 $113.79
CARDONE SELECT Part # 841833H More Info (Electronic)
Harness w/1 guide (tab) inside the connector; Supplied w/Cap, Rotor and Harness
$124.79 $0.00 $124.79
AUTOLINE Part # D2123N Supplied w/ Cap and Rotor
Delco Remy Type
$143.79 $0.00 $143.79
A-1 CARDONE Part # 301803 More Info {#1103916} Reman. Distributor (Electronic)
Contains Cap & Rotor

$91.79 $75.00 $166.79
A-1 CARDONE Part # 301803H More Info {#1103916} Reman. Distributor (Electronic)
Supplied w/Cap, Rotor and Harness

$104.79 $67.50 $172.29
AUTOLINE Part # D2123 More Info SUPPLIED W/O CAP & ROTOR; Reman
Delco-Remy; w/Distributor
* Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 3 business days
Next Image
$145.79 $50.00 $195.79
DELPHI Part # CZ20003 More Info Supplied w/Cap & Rotor One of our most popular parts
Next Image
$292.79 $0.00 $292.79
ACDELCO Part # 19212300 {#01104032, 1103916, 1104032} GM Original Equipment||Remanufactured
$312.79 $75.00 $387.79

Pat Post
01-20-2015, 07:32 PM
Yes they do. All I know is, this car better run flawlessly. I mean like new. You could put a glass of water on the dash and not get a ripple while it idles.

Daniel Scully
01-20-2015, 08:34 PM
I would assume they are going to replace the water pump drive seal and the distributor seal? The harmonic balancer seal you can change without pulling anything other than the balancer ,the others of course you can only change with the water pump and distributor out.

Pat Post
01-20-2015, 09:39 PM
They are doing the whole shabang.

Wesley Hord
01-20-2015, 10:46 PM
Also a good antifreeze (not coolant) and distilled water

Antifreeze and Coolant are the same thing. It's one fluid that provides two functions - it raises the boiling point of water when added to it, thus allowing it to continue to transfer heat and not boil and standard automotive operating temperatures (thus, coolant.) It also lowers the freezing point of water so that it doesn't become ice and therein ruin your motor, radiator, hoses, etc (thus, antifreeze.)

Peter Grave
01-20-2015, 11:58 PM
You are not correct on this. Antifreeze is usually (pardon the spelling) Ethyline Glycol with rust inhibitors and anti corosives for aluminum added. No water. Coolant is the same with water added. When I had my 87 Grand National other owners found using antifreeze with distilled water eliminated issues with the aluminum cooling system parts. I have used the antifreeze distilled water combination with good results on my keeper vehicles.

Paul Steinberg
01-21-2015, 12:45 AM
If you are worried about the aluminum parts in your engine, then spring for one of the most expensive antifreeze products on the market today. It is the "white" antifreeze that Mercedes Benz has been using in there aluminum engines for years. More recently, it is also packaged under the BMW and Audi brands. I know that CARQUEST carries the Mercedes branded product in there stores. I believe that you can also purchase it at NAPA. It is about 50% more than what the "green" stuff costs, but when you consider the average car is only going to require between 2 and 3 gallons, it is a bargain for the protection that it offers. Why skimp a few dollars on such an expensive engine.

Peter Grave
01-21-2015, 12:57 AM
Thanks Paul I will check into it

Wesley Hord
01-21-2015, 01:18 AM
You are not correct on this. Antifreeze is usually (pardon the spelling) Ethyline Glycol with rust inhibitors and anti corosives for aluminum added. No water. Coolant is the same with water added. When I had my 87 Grand National other owners found using antifreeze with distilled water eliminated issues with the aluminum cooling system parts. I have used the antifreeze distilled water combination with good results on my keeper vehicles.

I work in auto parts, have for 6 years, and I am P2 ASE certified. There are many different formulations of the product that goes in your radiator, but all of the cars and trucks I know of use a product that is both an antifreeze and a coolant, available in Full Strength Antifreeze/coolant (without water) or Pre-diluted Antifreeze/coolant. If you buy full strength, you add your own water. If you buy pre-diluted, you get the water mixed in for you already. Both contain rust inhibitors, water pump lubrication, and anti-corrosives. In some other countries there are separate products and there may be specialized products for extreme climates here in the states, but unless you're talking about a specific cooling additive like Water Wetter, antifreeze and coolant commercially available in the United States are the same thing in the same bottle. I handle hundreds of gallons of it every week and have read the labels and done the research. You sir, are incorrect.

Paul Steinberg
01-21-2015, 01:34 AM
Wesley...... Peter....... et al......

You are arguing semantics, and to use the words of Peter...

Antifreeze is usually (pardon the spelling) Ethylene Glycol with rust inhibitors and anti corrosives for aluminum added. No water. Coolant is the same with water added. (spelling corrected)

To use the words of Wesley....

all of the cars and trucks I know of use a product that is both an antifreeze and a coolant, available in Full Strength Antifreeze/coolant (without water) or Pre-diluted Antifreeze/coolant. If you buy full strength, you add your own water. If you buy pre-diluted, you get the water mixed in for you already. Both contain rust inhibitors, water pump lubrication, and anti-corrosives. The terms "coolant" and "antifreeze" are used interchangeably, and they both mean the same thing. Please, lets not beat a dead horse...
Thanks
Paul
Senior Administrator

Paul Steinberg
01-21-2015, 01:52 AM
In recent years, I have been told that the antifreeze / coolant when purchased in its diluted state of 50/50, is better than using distilled water, since the manufacturers of the product make sure that there are no impurities in the water that they use, and that the water is PH regulated for optimum performance of the antifreeze / coolant.

I have cheated, and have gone to the Internet (https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070128103059AAholJR) for the following information...

What is the Ph. of distilled water? is it neutral or slightly acidic?

Absolutely pure water would be pH 7.0, but even distilled water is not pure. It still contains lots of ions. Totally de-ionized water would be pH 7.0.

Source(s): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deionized_w... (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deionized_water)

Deionized water will quickly acquire a pH when exposed to air. Carbon dioxide, present in the atmosphere, will dissolve in the water, introducing ions and giving an acidic pH of around 5.0. The limited buffering capacity of DI water will not inhibit the formation of carbonic acid H2CO3. Boiling the water will remove the carbon dioxide to restore the absence of a pH value. In practice, the indication from chemical indicators can give a value of usually between pH 5.0 and pH 9.0 depending on the indicator used.

Then I went looking for the Ph. of the premixed antifreeze / coolant, and the only thing that I was able to find, was a MSDS paper on
PRESTONE ANTIFREEZE PREMIX MSDS397.
If you want to read the entire paper, it is located here. (http://www.stonergroup.com/msds/Prestone/Quick_Fill_Anti-freeze.pdf)


SECTION 9: PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
APPEARANCE AND ODOR: Fluorescent yellow liquid with a characteristic
odor.
pH: 10.2 SPECIFIC GRAVITY: 1.06
BOILING POINT (F): 228 F VAPOR PRESSURE: Less than 0.1
FREEZING POINT (F): -34 F VAPOR DENSITY: Not determined
SOLUBILITY IN WATER: Complete EVAPORATION RATE: Not determined
PERCENT VOLATILE: None VISCOSITY: Not determine
COEFFICIENT OF WATER/OIL DISTRIBUTION: Not determined
Returning to the Internet (http://www.eutechinst.com/techtips/tech-tips10.htm) for additional information, I found that ......... Extensive testing has shown that a coolant pH below 8.3 pH is not acceptable for use in engines due to its corrosive nature. The correct pH value should be maintained between 9.5 - 10.0 pH. Below 9.0 pH it is advisable to flush the cooling system and refill with a new coolant solution.

John ED Renstrom
01-21-2015, 12:10 PM
I knew there was a reason I never used the pre mix. -34 is not enough protection. you want "wet" water add a little dish soap. the akila will move the PH to less acid and give the water a more slippery consistency. but the key is and has always been change your coolant a time or two will you.

Daniel Scully
01-21-2015, 10:03 PM
Here is a easy way to chk it with a Multimeter. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBXZtfzHhig)

Paul Steinberg
01-22-2015, 01:00 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ffpe8aVvb2c

Larry Sears
01-22-2015, 12:33 PM
Just got a call on my hearse. The Optispark is $748. With a few other things that need to be done, I'm in it $1375 so far.

Summit Racing has the rebuilt A/C Delco Optispark for $378.97 with a core charge. There are many cheaper ones on the market but they have less than favorable reviews overall.

John ED Renstrom
01-22-2015, 01:23 PM
no me a never take seriously or as gospel anything the man whose wages hinge on sell something. a lot of snake oil out there

Pat Post
01-22-2015, 10:18 PM
I'm picking the car up Saturday. While I would have loved to do it myself, the time wasn't there. I was on the side of NH10 at 5:30 pm and needed to be in Maine that night. Talking with the service manager has raised some red flags that make me wonder about their mechanics ability. We'll see.

Daniel Scully
01-22-2015, 10:40 PM
Talking with the service manager has raised some red flags that make me wonder about their mechanics ability. We'll see.
__________________

Not really a hard job in some respects a lot easier than old stuff to work on. Nothing attached to the pump, belt easy on and off everthing pretty easy to get at.Hope it all works out for that kind of cash you should have O problems

Larry Sears
01-23-2015, 12:52 AM
Not really a hard job in some respects a lot easier than old stuff to work on. Nothing attached to the pump, belt easy on and off everthing pretty easy to get at.Hope it all works out for that kind of cash you should have O problems

Not having the trailer towing package makes it more simple as there are only electric fans and nothing in the way. In the middle of a tune-up right now on a 96 Roadmaster wagon. It has the towing package so it has a mechanical fan. I took it apart to fix a oil leak and figured with 112,000 miles this would be a good time to do a tune-up and waterpump as well.

Jeremy Moberg
01-23-2015, 01:48 PM
These things are pretty notorious for oil cooler line leaks and the seal at the oil filter adapter. The first time I replaced the gasket at the oil filter adapter, the part they gave me at the parts store made it worse. The gasket was way too thick and acted like a shim. If you change that, you're gonna want to make your own gasket out of a thinner material. I've had to do this to every LT1 car of mine except for the car with 384k on it. I don't know what it was about that car but it was very rare if I had to do anything to it with the engine. I put on at least 40-50k miles of my own on it and all I did to the engine was replace a water pump and a fuel pressure regulator.

I still find it funny all the people that have problems with the opti spark and water pumps. I've put on thousands of miles and have had no issues. Just one water pump. A friend of mine has several LT1s as well and his keep going like the energizer bunny as well. I do have to agree that the distributor is in the worst place possible.

I wouldn't advise getting A1 Cardone parts. I haven't had very good luck them. One time I got a rebuilt steering gear and it was worse than the bad one I had in the car. The shaft flopped all over the place. A friend of mine who is an ASE certified mechanic told me that Cardone had problems with disgruntled employees at one time and a lot of bad parts got put out on the shelfs.

I agree that regular antifreeze will help keep corrosion away. Most antifreeze have corrosion inhibiting compounds. If you have up to date antifreeze, it should serve the engine well. I think most of the problem is that people never change it and like anything, it wears out.

Pat Post
01-23-2015, 07:51 PM
I'm driving down tomorrow to check on it. It's 180 miles away right now. They called me today and said the #2 cylinder has 55 lbs of compression. Says it could be a burnt valve or a cracked piston. Might be scrapping it.

Paul Steinberg
01-23-2015, 07:55 PM
Scrapping your 1994 Superior Cadillac Sovereign ???

Tim A. Fantin
01-23-2015, 08:15 PM
I've had to replace waterpumps on just about every LT1 car I've owned. I've only had one optispark go out on a 1996 Roadmaster Wagon at 178k. With the pump off it's a good time to do a tune-up as it's in the way otherwise and it will have to come off again. I remember when these cars were new and everybody was making a big deal about they only needed to be tuned up every 100,000 miles. Nothing was said about the waterpumps! I've replaced many with 50,000 miles. Although, I guess age might of taken it's toll by now. They are good engines and will run for a longtime. There are many tips on the net about maintaining them, Impala ss forum, longroof forum etc............tune up parts might still seem expensive to some but they are a lot less than they used to be. I remember my dad taking his Roadmaster Wagon in for a tune-up at the Buick dealer and spending near $1300.00 years ago.

Pat Post
01-23-2015, 08:33 PM
Scrapping your 1994 Superior Cadillac Sovereign ???

Yep. I paid 4,800 for it four years ago and it now has 150k on it. It may be extreme to scrap it but I'm already 1,900 into it and it's still not fixed.

Peter Grave
01-23-2015, 09:32 PM
Time to get it out of there I have never had an LT-1 with a burnt valve or bad piston. Plenty of blown rods and water pump optispark issues. If it will drive OK with a miss get it home. Then do the detective work. Remote bent push rod or rocker issue possible. Don't hit the scrap button yet. I have LT-1 engines in stock.

Pat Post
01-23-2015, 09:35 PM
Time to get it out of there I have never had an LT-1 with a burnt valve or bad piston. Plenty of blown rods and water pump optispark issues. If it will drive OK with a miss get it home. Then do the detective work. Remote bent push rod or rocker issue possible. Don't hit the scrap button yet. I have LT-1 engines in stock.

That's why I'm heading down to see it for myself. The service manager says it idles rough and falls on its face when under power.

Peter Grave
01-23-2015, 11:11 PM
No reason with a dead cylinder it should fall on its face under power. Miss yes no power not a chance something is beginning to smell bad with this Cadillac dealer.

John ED Renstrom
01-24-2015, 12:13 AM
sounds like out of time to me.

Daniel Scully
01-24-2015, 12:46 AM
sounds like out of time to me.

Distributor can only go in one way, there is a index slot that only lines up with the camshaft pin . But it it would be easy to switch the plug wires. I just marked mine from 1-4 . Another thing I noticed is the rotor has a really small index pin an you where changing just the rotor and cap I guess if if you were determined you could get the rotor on wrong. But I believe a whole distributor was installed so that could not be the problem. There is no timing mark. There is no adjustment for the timing, other factors come into play if the timing is off.

John ED Renstrom
01-24-2015, 12:49 PM
thats the way it looked to me basically solid state device. the wonder is, if the unit replace was defective. but then a wire or two crossed would give it the no power. the 350 is free willing so nothing should have happened when in quit to give it a internal problem. if it ran ok before with that one cylinder down, it should again.

been down this road with a shop a time of two my self. I don't mind paying for my own education but I really hate paying for someone elses

Pat Post
01-24-2015, 05:58 PM
Went down to see how things are for myself. According to the compression test, cylinders 1,3,5,&7 have 195-200 lbs and 2,4,6,8 have 55,135,140,&140 respectively. The car idles but sounds like it's running a mild cam when under power it doesn't really stall, it just has no power. They're going to bore scope the cylinders on the right side Monday. I'll make the decision then. I need it to run as I'm stuck in Maine with a rental and some stuff that wouldn't fit in the storage building in the hearse.

Either way, I'll have a repair bill to pay.

John ED Renstrom
01-24-2015, 09:57 PM
now if I remember right thats a roller cam in them. loosen the rockers on that side and re set them. I would do that no matter what. very strange to have one bank with low compression. cracked head or blown gasket should have other evidence and only affect one or two. if it was running good before it quit you then something happened to the valve train on that side when it stalled.

Peter Grave
01-24-2015, 11:14 PM
I am with ED something Very funny here I would for sure check valve train. I would get it home and away from Cadillac. It should drive anywhere the way it is.

Daniel Scully
01-25-2015, 12:17 AM
I am with ED something Very funny here I would for sure check valve train. I would get it home and away from Cadillac. It should drive anywhere the way it is.





Depending on how far you drive it with a engine miss, you might kill the catalytic converters. Causing more problems.

Pat Post
01-25-2015, 09:00 AM
As much as I would like to stop dumping money into it, it's 180 miles away in Keene, NH and I am in a hotel until the end of February. Then I have to drive back to Kansas. I look at it like this, I can either pay the extra 1k bucks and get my car back or I can give that to a rental car agency and then still have to get a small moving van to get what's in the car here to Maine. Then I have to rent a storage locker for the stuff and then rent a van again. I'm kinda stuck on what needs to be done.

John ED Renstrom
01-25-2015, 01:36 PM
yes. not a good spot to be in and over and above. so no rental trailer that big truck maybe. rent a small car, ship the Hearse? then deal with the car later. I'm guessing if the valve trane gets fixed the tranny will go out next where it sits. :rolleyes:

Pat Post
01-25-2015, 03:57 PM
The car I'm renting right now is 35 a day. If I were to hold on to it until the end of February, it will be 1200 bucks. A small storage locker is 125 bucks. Then I have the cost of shipping the car to Kansas. I will then have to rent a moving van to to get all my stuff back to CT just to meet up with the movers. Long story short, it's cheaper to fix it. I still have the original amount to pay to fix it even if I called off any more work.

The logistics of all this are really what is determine the car's fate.

Peter Grave
01-25-2015, 06:13 PM
I feel for you talk about the rock and hard place. Only alternate I can see would be check with area yards for a low miles LT-1 say from the old folks Roadmaster they wrecked put the engine in save the new parts from the bad one or put them on used engine. There should be some good ones around as they are not big sellers at this point. Its cheaper and perhaps better at this point than fooling with the mystery issue with the high miles original engine. You could spend big $$$ on the top of the original only to have it blow a rod down the road due to high miles and old age. The thing I find scarey is the engine you are about to spend big $$ on is high miles with an unknown problem. Most yards today start and run any used engine before they sell it and your chances of finding a lower miles engine than the one you have are good. I wish you good luck in any case. I think the LT-1 equipped cars are some of the best the General ever turned out. In 1999-2000 we had Police Departments paying us $10000.00 plus to remanufacture their Caprices just so they did not have to go to the Crown Vics many of those Caprices went over 300K in police patrol service.

Pat Post
01-25-2015, 07:04 PM
That idea would work if I wasn't living in a hotel in Maine in the dead of winter. If I was at home in Kansas in my heated garage that would be an option. If it blows a rod later on down the road then I'll quality Cadillac and coach parts for sale. If you look at it, the car has just under 150k miles. Over 21 years, it was only driven on average 7,142 miles a year. It's not really high mileage by my definition.

Peter Grave
01-25-2015, 09:24 PM
I see your point you are a captive customer at Cadillac. I would ask their thoughts on plan A fix existing engine or B find a low miles used engine (if available) and install same and cost estimate on either A or B. Again with all I have done with LT-1s over the years the issue you have is a first. That makes me wonder what Cadillac may find. If they in fact do find a definite issue or they start to guess. I hope you continue to keep us posted.

Pat Post
01-25-2015, 10:57 PM
I will. The compression test leads me to believe there is a valve train issue. But we'll see.

Daniel Scully
01-25-2015, 11:19 PM
Have a friend parting a 94 Limo about 90k on the engine but it is here on.the left coast. :(

Pat Post
01-27-2015, 02:01 PM
Alright, here's what's going on. The valves are fine, the cylinders are fine. It blew a head gasket at the number two cylinder which is why it leaked down. Getting the head cleaned up and pressure testing the valves. So not out of the woods yet but we're getting closer.

Peter Grave
01-27-2015, 03:58 PM
That is good news only question is WHY did the head gasket blow? Did you overheat it with the water pump issue? If not I think I would have head magnafluxed to be sure no cracks. Too costly to do gasket twice.

Pat Post
01-27-2015, 05:33 PM
That is good news only question is WHY did the head gasket blow? Did you overheat it with the water pump issue? If not I think I would have head magnafluxed to be sure no cracks. Too costly to do gasket twice.

They're going to check the head thoroughly. Even though my temp light never came on, I believe the car ran hot due to the misfires and the water pump not being able to keep up. Almost done.

Peter Grave
01-27-2015, 06:53 PM
You have to wonder who comes up with things like this at GM. A Caprice 91 to 96 full dash cluster ,oil pressure,water temp,fuel,amps, Roadmaster,Fuel,and heat, Top OF the Line Cadillac,Stupid lights that tell you nothing until its too late and a Fuel gage. Then another great thing,Caprice and Roadmaster have storage bins in the bottom of both front doors,Cadillac NO! Seems like someone was sleeping for the top of the line.

Pat Post
02-06-2015, 11:24 PM
Well it's back. It cost me more than I should have paid but it is what it is. It runs better than it did even before the ordeal. Reminds me of when I was driving them when they were new in '96. For those who were wondering what an Optispark replacement would cost it cost me 1,300. Then the rest of it.😬😬

Peter Grave
02-06-2015, 11:44 PM
Glad its back what was the issue with the head? Yes the general knows how (they think) to make you buy a new car you just make parts prices so high you walk up front from the parts department to the showroom and trade in. The last I checked the AC compressor it was $775.00 my cost hate to think where it is now. The LT-1 is still a great engine the most bang for the buck. When you can get to it I would suggest an oil and heat gage under the dash

Pat Post
02-07-2015, 01:36 AM
It had a burnt exhaust valve and was slightly warped. They did a complete valve train job on both. She rides better with the new air ride pump too.

John ED Renstrom
02-08-2015, 01:09 PM
Interesting how it ran before with the old distributor, but would not with the new one.